I'll work on something for you but I don't think you will be able to fit 4 600w lights on your electrical. I'm almost sure you won't. You don't need 4 lights to do a perpetual. Especially since you are in soil. You just need plants at different stages of flower and veg. The lighting doesn't have to be seperate. You can also do a perpetual where you harvest half your plants every month. Anyway, there is no way you are getting 4 lights on that 1 outlet in that room woth all of the fans and other stuff you will need. Also, sounds like you will be using 1 gallon pots to do this. That means you will have smaller plants that will basically be a SOG. You can't grow big plants in those small pots. You will probably veg them for 1 week at the maximum before putting them into flower. How beg is the tray you will be using?Thanks for the reply Phillip. I have looked more in to a perpetual grow cycle and found a great link on this forum https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/6592-get-harvest-every-2-weeks.html. Its alot of pages and just started reading it but am liking the idea and would like your take on it. I was thinking 1 Msq tray with 25x3.4ltr square pots. Sorry to mess you about but taking this into consideration and how the guy has his perpetual grow cycle could you adjust the room/rooms accordingly. I will also read thoroughly through that thread and will update you with any relevant information. Just took into coinsideration that for this style cycle i will need 4 lighting systems so thats 4 x 600 watts. As you know i want to keep the power consumption and costing down. Have i hit a brick wall with trying a perpetual grow?
And from understanding what you are saying with the intakes/ventialtion i will be looking at 3 fans then one to draw in from the window, one to extract from the hoods through the attic and one connected to a carbon filter, is that right? Living in the UK the temperatures are never high sometimes we may get a few days of mid to low 20's (celcius) but the majority of the time its 10 celcius. Winter even colder So taking this into account getting cold air into the room shouldnt be an issue should it and the need of an aircon unit shouldnt be needed? I will be looking at running the lights at night aswell and i would like to mention the temp at night here can get quite low to single figures, even on a hot day 20 celcius the temp can drop below 10 celcius in the night. Also from alot of grow diaries on a UK forum they use parabolic or open hoods would you still stay stick to the vented hoods as outside temperature rarely gets upto mid teens for any length of time. Im not contradicting you just making you aware of the temperatures so i can get the best setup ..
Lastly what are your suggestions for lighting them in Veg? i was looking at maxibright T5's 4' 8way possibly and what lights would you recommend for the mums.
Many thanks again and again
V
Seems fine to me; I can't really tell if I don't know what you are trying to put in there. You'll have plenty of extra room in your veg area for storage and workspace since it is bigger than your flower room. Try and design your rooms to fit the lights and plant layout you are going to have since you will be building your room. For example; if you want to use 2 1000w lights in your flower room then plan on a 5x10 area for your plant and then build around that while taking into account your need for other space to accomodate dehumidifiers, a/c units, reservoirs, fans, etc...I'm building a house. Would like a small hidden room to grow just for my own use. Don't need a lot of space. Would like separate veg and flower rooms. Would have 9' ceilings. I can add whatever for power, water and waste.
I was initially thinking of a 8x10 Veg / work / Mother room and 6 x 10 Flower room. No CO2, and I'd plan to use 1000W HPS.
Do these dimensions seem OK?
4,000btu per light if they are sufficiently air cooled and vented out of the room. More like 8,000btu if they are not vented. If you have extreme temps n the summer then I would make is 5,000btu for ambient cooling. These are the base requirements. Remeber that you will most likepy have other equipment in the room that produces heat. Plus you should oversize the unit based on these numbers. I would go with 24,000btu. Can't be that much more expensive and will be a lot more efficient as it won't have to run as much. You might find an 18,000btu unit running 24/7 to keep up.I'm getting an 18k BTU Minisplit and want to know how many watts I should run in my room in a closed system. I can vent the lights through the attic if need be, but it's hot here in the summer don't know if I will really be reaping any benefits or if I should just run them open...
The room is at maximum 11x11 (but I can limit the space if need be) and as I said we have extreme temps in the summers (temperate winters though don't need to heat)
I was thinking 3kw, but have an extra 400, 600 and 1kw on top of that so I could run 3400, 3600 or 4000watts
If I am adding it all up... I get :
3 x 4K BTU (for the 1000w lights) = 12000 BTU
1 x 2150 BTU (for the dehuey) = 2150 BTU
100 SQ ft x 40 btu / sqft (for ambient cooling)= 4000 BTU
total 18150 btu
roughly 18k BTU Right there... am I over doing it on the lights? Should I only be running like 2600 or something?
Thanks for the help
8" hoods are a little more expensive and they let you move more air through them. You can cool a 1000w light in a 6" hood. Maybe even 2 if you have a good fan and the ducting run is straight. Anymore then that and you really want 8" hoods. Also, if you have to run curved ducting or long runs then having 8" hoods helps.hey phillip wats the difference between using 6 in aircooled hoods and 8 in aircooled hoods? is it for how many hoods u use? so the more hoods then you would use 8 and less hoods you would use 6? also for ur veg room do u aircool those hoods too?
I had planned for two 1000W lights for flower. Overhead, not vertical. That would use a 5x10 footprint, then? Good to know. 8x10 seems good for veg for the extra space as you said.Seems fine to me; I can't really tell if I don't know what you are trying to put in there. You'll have plenty of extra room in your veg area for storage and workspace since it is bigger than your flower room. Try and design your rooms to fit the lights and plant layout you are going to have since you will be building your room. For example; if you want to use 2 1000w lights in your flower room then plan on a 5x10 area for your plant and then build around that while taking into account your need for other space to accomodate dehumidifiers, a/c units, reservoirs, fans, etc...
How long would the straight run have to be for two 1000W 6" hoods? 10' ? Ambient room temp with lights of I assume would be 65F, as this is a basement. I'd like to avoid AC and handle cooling with a lot of air movement through carbon filters exhausting into the rest of the basement in a hidden fashion. No exhaust to the outside.You can cool a 1000w light in a 6" hood. Maybe even 2 if you have a good fan and the ducting run is straight.
You'd be beter off with 8" hoods then. If you have no a/c and are only using intakes then I would try and move as much air throught those hoods as possible. Look at the 8" High Output Can Fan. Try not to use different size fans and ducting. Not very efficient when you have a bunch of duct reducers in your setup. If you aren't exhausting anything outside then your basement is gonna be hot as hell. Where are you going to draw air from to cool your room? If you are exhausting your lights and heat into the rest of the basement then you will need another areas from which to draw cool air. I don't know your setup so maybe you have something that will work.How long would the straight run have to be for two 1000W 6" hoods? 10' ? Ambient room temp with lights of I assume would be 65F, as this is a basement. I'd like to avoid AC and handle cooling with a lot of air movement through carbon filters exhausting into the rest of the basement in a hidden fashion. No exhaust to the outside.
I need to know:hey phillip so i've decided to set up my other two rooms and was wondering if you can help me with the design. can you tell me what details you need? also how do i measure my ceilings if theyre really high?
Hey Hellraizer, considering how efficient those things are I don't think you need much of a pump at all. I have the resevoir that feed my room at 57 degrees and I still have to close the valve on my Wort's like 50% just so it won't get too cold. She holds at around 62-64. I would say even one of those Ebb & Flow 200gph pumps would be more than enough. If you wanted to play it on the safe side then just get a 350gph mag drive pump (http://www.greners.com/i/hydroponics/components/water-pumps/mag-drive-pumps.html) and "T" it to the 2 Wort's. Dont pump it straight line through 1 and then the other. Your second reservoir won't cool as much that way. Another tip is to install T-Ball valves before each Wort. This will allow you to remove 1 if you need to and also restrict flow if it gets too cold.Hey phillip got another question lol!! How large of a pump would i need to push water through x2 of those 3/8 x 50 wort
Chillers? If you can post a link
Hey Gastanker, I was just checking out your thread man. Very cool stuff. I use autoCad 3D for a lot of our development projects and for actual rooms that I've built. I'm gonna check that DIALux program out for sure. Thanks.Phillip, you might be interested in this - https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/519884-free-lighting-cad-program-attention.html#post7279409
Thanks for the help. So if I have two 1000W in flower room and maybe two more in veg (?) that's not enough to warrant water cooling? Is that your point?You might not be ready for water cooling just yet. It's easy to keep 1 light cool but you are gonna have a lot of wattage. A/C is really gonna be necessary if you can't vent outside. Even then your basement is going to be hot as hell outside of your grow room. May have to leave some windows open.