• Here is a link to the full explanation: https://rollitup.org/t/welcome-back-did-you-try-turning-it-off-and-on-again.1104810/

Greenpoint seeds!!

Heisengrow

Heisengrow

Well-Known Member
40AmpstoFreedom said:
I am an organic guy done most styles and mastered but still use blue lab....You should have a blue lab pen and be phing in soil at 6.4-6.8 at varying intervals through the grow regardless. Current culture is kick ass if you want to go the hydro route...I left the organic realm for coco and hydro for a little while but when I discovered capillary mats and 60 gallon reservoirs that break down into something you can carry under each arm I never looked back.

http://waterpulse.com/

+

https://autopot-usa.com/product-category/flexitank/flexitank-pro/

Use the whole autopot system if you are small time. If not it makes 0 sense price wise.
Click to expand...
Blue lab is good stuff,the ph pen requires tap water in the cap so the bulb doesn't dry out.also change the battery every 6 months.its a triple a easy to change

As far as current culture goes they can eat a dick up and hiccup.way over priced,there epi bucket design sucks and that add back feature they just came out with is as dumb as a bag of hammers.

I built and designed this setup and have gone through changes.i put my return line in the bucket lid.so much easier having access to the line to fill a 5 gallon bucket to dump to,ph the water and add it back to the system.

This system will pull 5 lbs in 90 days all day long

20180426_232549.jpg

Just finished building the cob setup for my veg room
Putting the greenpoint testers in these after the ones in there go to flower room.
This setup will slay veg
20180812_182027.jpg
 
psychadelibud

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
You guys that are talking about the recharge, I can tell you from first hand experience (been using it for 2 years now and recommending it along my way) it is some amazing stuff. Everything that it claims it does, it does, plus more!

Also an update on my 2 Jelly Pie phenos... I ended up with 14 Oz total from 2 plants in promix, 3 gallon bags, AN a&b nutes as well as a mixture of organics. Both phenos will now be ran in my perpetual op, with yields like that and potency to match (estimating 6-7 lbs every 30 to 40 day's) how could anyone pass up such a good solid fast finishing strain?? 14 oz is an insane amount of bud from 2 plants in 3 gal containers... Was NOT expecting that at all... Could only imagine if I had ran a full room with 26 or so of those two, instead of just two... Well, good thing is she is full now of various GPS strains (with a few exceptions) . Anyone looking for an all around commercial strain, this one is most definitely for you! No special training, just topped once and grown with tomato cages as support. Get yourselves some Jelly Pie!! Glad I have 5 more packs to play with :eyesmoke:

Edit: Speaking of recharge, I'm not sure how many of you use mammoth P but I have also noticed an enormous difference during flower using mammoth P. You have to play around with it for a bit when you first start using it (never beyond the recommended dose) but you will eventually figure out how to dial it in.. Start using it lightly in the beginning of flower and work your way up to a full dose towards the middle to end, it will do wonders when you figure it out. I would also recommend to stop the recharge after the first week of flower. Be careful with the recharge as I know from experience you will cause yourself a P lockout very easily of over done. Took me forever to figure out what was going on till I finally figured out the issue.

Work out in the guerilla world is gonna pick back up this morning so I will see you guys in about a month with updates on all my GPS gear... I cannot wait to see what the other strains are capable of after running that pie. I can already tell yall that Cackleberry is gonna be an insane yielder (probably more so than the pie) and finish VERY fast. You guys stay safe and keep pumping out that fuel and fire from Gu's gear! Filling up the ATV and heading out to work for the day. bongsmilie
 
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N

nobighurry

Well-Known Member
Heisengrow said:
Blue lab is good stuff,the ph pen requires tap water in the cap so the bulb doesn't dry out.also change the battery every 6 months.its a triple a easy to change

As far as current culture goes they can eat a dick up and hiccup.way over priced,there epi bucket design sucks and that add back feature they just came out with is as dumb as a bag of hammers.

I built and designed this setup and have gone through changes.i put my return line in the bucket lid.so much easier having access to the line to fill a 5 gallon bucket to dump to,ph the water and add it back to the system.

This system will pull 5 lbs in 90 days all day long

View attachment 4180209

Just finished building the cob setup for my veg room
Putting the greenpoint testers in these after the ones in there go to flower room.
This setup will slay veg
View attachment 4180212
Click to expand...
Heisengrow: Thank you for the info! My first cheapo ph pen didn't have directions nor did I do my due diligence, I stored it improperly I learned later, I am 100% with you on current culture especially the cost, but the one I just bought is a homemade version with the kinks worked out, the builder only used their buckets and air pumps , he ran a few cycles then stored it after going organic soil, I picked it up for a couple hundred bucks including 1/4 hp cooler, I did some single bucket dwc few years ago but by no means am I well versed on hydro going to be a learning process....
 
4

40AmpstoFreedom

Well-Known Member
Heisengrow said:
Blue lab is good stuff,the ph pen requires tap water in the cap so the bulb doesn't dry out.also change the battery every 6 months.its a triple a easy to change

As far as current culture goes they can eat a dick up and hiccup.way over priced,there epi bucket design sucks and that add back feature they just came out with is as dumb as a bag of hammers.

I built and designed this setup and have gone through changes.i put my return line in the bucket lid.so much easier having access to the line to fill a 5 gallon bucket to dump to,ph the water and add it back to the system.

This system will pull 5 lbs in 90 days all day long

View attachment 4180209

Just finished building the cob setup for my veg room
Putting the greenpoint testers in these after the ones in there go to flower room.
This setup will slay veg
View attachment 4180212
Click to expand...
Yeah as far as price goes any prebuilt hydro can 'eat a dick'. lol. Some are really nice but definitely building your own is the only way to go. I don't understand how some of those companies stay in business.
 
yimbeans

yimbeans

Well-Known Member
tnx! I heard some people take out the glass on the hood and put in sheet metal and mount them in there so you can air-cooled them... anyone ever tried? max xxl hoods

couldn't pull em up as high tho, prob better w angle for that aspect
 
socaljoe

socaljoe

Well-Known Member
yimbeans said:
im thinking bout building my first cobb setup. what do you guys recomend, will be doing a 4x4 bloom room first... what do you use to build the mount n such?
Click to expand...
Full disclosure: I've never built a cob setup, but I do have a lot of background in construction and cobbling things together.

That said, if I were to build a frame for cobs, I'd start by looking at aluminum 80/20 framing. It may be overkill, but it's pretty easy to work with. Also, you should be able to get cut-to-size pieces. Here's a wiki link to describe it.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/80/20_(framing_system)
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
yimbeans said:
im thinking bout building my first cobb setup. what do you guys recomend, will be doing a 4x4 bloom room first... what do you use to build the mount n such?
Click to expand...
I used Angled Aluminum. 1/8" thick 1" x 1", I tried using 1/16th and found it to be too flimsy. Go to a metal supply place for it and you can get it cheap, avoid big box stores.

Socaljoe brings up another great option to use, my only beef with the 80/20 is the price but it does look a lot better than the angled aluminum.
 
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socaljoe

socaljoe

Well-Known Member
nc208 said:
I used Angled Aluminum. 1/8" thick 1" x 1", I tried using 1/16th and found it to be too flimsy. Go to a metal supply place for it and you can get it cheap, avoid box box stores.

Socaljoe brings up another great option to use, my only beef with the 80/20 is the price but it does look a lot better than the angled aluminum.
Click to expand...
Yeah, 80/20 definitely isn't for a budget build. But damn is it cool, and versatile.
 
ThatSpudGuy

ThatSpudGuy

Well-Known Member
yimbeans said:
tnx! I heard some people take out the glass on the hood and put in sheet metal and mount them in there so you can air-cooled them... anyone ever tried? max xxl hoods

couldn't pull em up as high tho, prob better w angle for that aspect
Click to expand...
yeah thats what i would do if i was building a cob frame
 
Heisengrow

Heisengrow

Well-Known Member
yimbeans said:
im thinking bout building my first cobb setup. what do you guys recomend, will be doing a 4x4 bloom room first... what do you use to build the mount n such?
Click to expand...
Rapid LED sell premade rails to put the heat sinks in.If you dont wanna go that route and make it yourself you can buy angled aluminum from lowes or Home depot or anywhere that sells it.The whole purpose of the DIY cob builds is to fit the footprint you wanna cover.
When i set mine up i took the square footage of the area 4x5 (20) square feet.I used this selection tool to select the wattage per cob and what drivers i needed.
http://ledgardener.com/cob-led-driver-selection-tool/
The goal is more cobs at less wattage for alot of light overlap.cobs are 120 degree beams so the more you have at lower wattages the more efficient.I dont really see the need to air cool LEDs honestly.for a 16 square feet you could go with 3 rows of 4 and put 6 35 - 38 volt cobs on an HLG 320 and drive them at 1400mA.
The vero D is 38.7 V X 1.4 amps giving you right at 650.16 cobs for a 4x4.Thats right around 40 watts per square foot. which is perfect IMO.
If you wanted to spend less money on the build you could get 8 of the same cobs and drive them at 2100mA with the same 320H drivers and only have to use 8.Less money on cobs and heatsinks but less coverage and less efficient.
Its worth the money to get more cobs and drive them softer.The amps you drive them at determines how many watts they are pushing.I could hook up 2100mA drivers to the cobs i already have and put 2500 watts over the 4x10 if i wanted to just by switching the drivers.
 
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