Gnat problem persists... please help

Libre420

Member
Posting a picture here too since I kind of messed up now with the double posting, also to clarify, the soil is literally never wet more or less, it has been taken care of with a mix where I added plenty of perlites and some leca

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Still wondering whether I should maybe get rid of the barely growing gnat plant in the back, the other one shows no signs of gnats so far.

Also the temp / vent problem, I got these, just no easy to connect them yet :/
(Again, economic issue)

But to show what it is I have waiting to get connected:

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Without the aluminium thing connecting them I can not use it yet , so right now only running input fan
 

xtsho

Well-Known Member
Gnats are easy to get rid of. There are many inexpensive methods.


1. SMOTHER THE SOIL

Because gnats and fruit flies lay their eggs in the top layer of soil,
you can prevent their larvae from being able to climb out by spreading a layer of aquarium gravel or coarse sand over the top of the soil. Make sure to pack it in well. The larvae will die trapped beneath, and you should be pest-free within a day or so.

Bonus: it looks great, too - and not just with succulents and cacti!

2. MAKE YOUR OWN STICKY TRAP

Make a DIY sticky trap
with a 3 x 5 index card, a highlighter, a wooden stick (paint stirrer or dowel rod) and petroleum jelly. First, color both sides of the card with the highlighter to make it attractive to the flies and gnats. Then, attach it to the stick or rod with glue or staples. Finally, coat both sides of the card with a thick layer of petroleum jelly, and stick that baby in your planter and wait for them to take the bait. Repeat as necessary until they’ve all been lured to their deaths.

3. MAKE YOUR OWN DROWNING TRAP

It’s easy to make a DIY trap with what you have in your fridge.
Using apple cider vinegar mixed with fruit juice or beer, pour your liquid solution to about 1/4” from the bottom in a plastic cup. (Other kinds of vinegar or alcohol will work too.) Then add a drop of liquid dish soap and stir. If you want to speed up the process, you can also add a chunk of ripe fruit like banana or melon, making sure it protrudes above the liquid - it will attract pests faster than liquid alone. Using plastic wrap, cover the top of the cup and secure it with a rubber band, then poke some holes in it with a toothpick. Your trap is complete!

DIY fruit fly trap


(Image credit: Joe Lingeman)

All you have to do now is set it on a shelf or somewhere near your plant. They’re attracted to fermentation (to lay their eggs) and won’t be able to resist crawling in those holes and investigating the liquid. Once they touch down, even though they would normally be able to walk on top, the soap in the solution breaks the surface tension and prevents their escape, causing them to drown. When you’re done with the trap, just tape over the holes and dump it in the trash. Good riddance!

4. USE SPUD POWER

Got potatoes just lying around?
Cut them up into small, 1/2” pieces and set several of them on the soil of your planter. Larvae will climb out of the soil to feed on them within a day or two. If you don’t see them on the chunks, check for holes and bite marks. Simply collect the pieces, seal them in a plastic bag and discard.
 

SnidleyBluntash

Well-Known Member
Didn’t read the whole thing but, Something s I have tried:

Those yellow sticky tapes, OR just use ductTape!, it’s sticky. Put the duck tape both facing down towards the dirt, and more facing upwards. They will get covered with stuck bugs. I even wrap a little collar of duck tape around the base of the plant, this will get any bugs trying to crawl up the stem.

2) vacuum out the top layer of soil. 2-3 inches if possible. That’s where they live.
3) put a thicc layer of sand on top of the soil. I went to the beach and got a bucket of sand, pour on top and never saw a gnat again.

d) hydrogen peroxide: you don’t want to use too concentrated, maybe a spray mist bottle mixed with some water, spray the top of the soil a little. You don’t want to get the roots too much.
 

sandman83

Well-Known Member
Yeah that I do have, but again, not being able to connect it to the filter yet (the termostat output fan that I'm not using atm) , even if I set it on the lowest output (it controls temp by changing power/speed basically) , it simply outruns the input fan like crazy, the walls of the tent get sucked in as if there was nothing but vacuum :/
walls of my tent are always sucked in, i like it under negative pressure. With just the 2 plants you should be fine space wise, just next month or something grab a speed controller for the exhaust fan and slow it down.

You've got the space I'd keep both plants for now, never know if one will take a turn for the worse and you'll be happy for a backup!
 

ubluntu

Active Member
That fan looks super over-power.. If you use it to puil air, you might be able to add a realease-valve thingy.. just another hole so 1/2 the air is pulled from the tent, and the other is outside the tent to reduce the vaccume effect... you can ditch the input fan too.. it's bad for the motors to have two fans in line.
 
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