Getting the most out of your cfls!

I HAVE GONE THROUGH A FEW ROUNDS OF CFL TESTING AND I THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE A FEW TIPS TO SQUEEZE EVERY LUMEN OUT OF ARE TWISTY LITTLE ECO FRIENDLY FRIENDS!

TIP ONE:

CLOSE ENOUGH IS NOT CLOSE ENOUGH! THE CFLS POWER DROPS OFF QUICKLY AS YOU PUT MORE DISTANCE BETWEEN THEM AND THE PLANTS. MY LIGHT METER HAS REALLY HIGHLIGHTED THIS FOR ME ! THE READINGS I GET 3 INCHES AWAY FROM MY CFLS IS DOUBLE THE POWER YOU GET AT 6INCHES!

TIP TWO:

SPREAD LOVE!! INSTEAD OF BUYING 2-3 LARGE CFLS BUY MANY SMALLER ONES , THEY RUN COOLER AND ALLOW YOU TO SPREAD THE LIGHT OUT OVER THE ENTIRE GROW AREA. COOLER BULBS CAN BE CLOSER TO HELP TAKE ADVANTAGE OF THE USEABLE LIGHT!

TIP THREE:

PLACEMENT, THIS IS KEY TO SUCCESSFUL CFL GROWING! MY BULBS ARE ALWAYS PLACED WITH THE END OF THE BULB (TOP OF GLASS) POINTING AT MY CANOPY. AGAIN THE LIGHT METER SHOWS THAT THE BRIGHTEST PART OF ALL CFL BULBS IS THE TOP NOT THE SIDES MOST STORE BOUGHT CFL REFLECTORS MOUNT THE BULB HORIZONALLY AND ALL OF THE "END LIGHT" IS WASTED COOKING THE WALLS AND HOOD INSTEAD OF YOUR PLANTS . AN IDEAL MOUNT IS ON A 45 DEGREE ANGLE WITH THE BULBS DIRECTING THEIR END LIGHT ACCROSS EACH OTHER TO ASSURE EVEN LIGHT COVERAGE. SEE DIAGRAM FOR FURTHER EXPLAINATION

TIP FOUR:

COLOR SPECTRUM , THIS IS PRETTY BASIC STUFF BUT THERE IS ALOT OF BAD INFORMATION OUT THERE SO HERE ARE THE FACTS AS I SEE THEM. 5600K-6500K BULBS ARE THE CLOSEST WE CAN GET TO MIMICKING THE SPRING SUN THEREFORE THEY WORK WELL FOR VEGGING . THE BEST VEGGING LIGHT IN MY OPINION IS HALF 5600K AND HALF 6500K BULBS. AS YOU MOVE INTO FLOWER ITS LESS OF A SHOCK IF YOU SWAP ONE 6500k WITH A 2700K EACH DAY UNTILL 12/12 THEN SWITCH ALL TO 2700K FOR FLOWERING. SOME PEOPLE MIX IN A FEW 3500K OR HIGHER TO TO KEEP A SLIGHTLY BROAD SPECTRUM BUT 2700K IS AS CLOSE TO PERFECT AS WE CAN GET RIGHT NOW SO 12/12 LIGHT AND 2700K IS THE OPTIMUM FLOWER LIGHTING.

TIP FIVE:

SAFTEY FIRST!! ITS OK TO BUILD YOUR OWN LIGHT AND VENT SYSTEMS IF YOU HAVE SOME BASIC SKILLS ! IF YOU DONT PLEASE DONT START WIRING YOUR OLD LAMPS WITH SPEAKER WIRE AND DUCT TAPE! USE HEAVY WIRE FOR MULTIPLE BULB SETUPS AND MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE SECURE WITH WIRE NUTS AND HIGH HEAT ELECTRICAL TAPE (IN A JUNCTION BOX IF POSSIBLE). IF YOU WOULDNT PUT UP YOUR OWN CEILING FAN YOU PROBABLY SHOULD BUILD YOUR OWN LIGHTS! HAVE A FRIEND BUILD THEM OR TELL AN ELECTRICION YOUR STARTING SEEDS OR HATCHING EGGS SO YOU NEED A SPECIAL LIGHT BUILT. OR YOU CAN USE SEVERAL SOCKETS WITH THEIR CORDS PLUGGED INTO POWER STRIPS BUT ROUTE AND SECURE WIRING USE A QUALITY POWER STRIP WITH PROTECTION/FUSE AND MAKE SURE NOTHING HEATS UP DURING USE AFTER SEVERAL HOURS. WATER AND ELECTRICITY DONT MIX SO LIFT LIGHTS OR MOVE YOUR PLANTS AWAY FROM WIRING DURING WATERING / FEEDING. AND ALWAYS USE GROUNDED CORDS PLUGGED INTO A GFI OUTLET. IF YOU HAVE A REGULAR OUTLET ONLY USE A SURGE PROTECTOR OR INSTALL THE GFI , ITS PRETTY EASY FEW SCREWS FEW WIRES.


I DONT CLAIM TO BE AN EXPERT SO USE THIS INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK ! IF ANYONE HAS AND CORRECTIONS OR COMMENTS PLEASE FEEL FREE TO SHARE. I WILL POST A FEW PICS OF MY LIGHTING AND A DIAGRAM OF THE CFL PLACEMENT

THX DRBUDWANNABE AKA WINKDOGGView attachment 1886586
View attachment 1886588

I agree with everything except your color spectrum part. if you are trying to mimic the sun its useful to remember the plants get a mixed spectrum in nature and have evolved to take advantage of that.

Useful tips thanks! Currently running a perpetual cfl sog and is going great!

Great point thanks!

I guess my wording could lead to debate but i agree 100% with your statement! I was trying to point out the things that i have learned along the way and i guess i made it sound more like fact as apposed to my opinion , thanks again for pointing it out any other corrections are welcome im never too old to learn something new!!

Thanks for the informative post. It would be more readable if you would exercise that caps lock key a few times when typing...

decent post, pretty much in line with my thinking also. Im sure some new guys are going to find this useful.

The 23 watt cfl's are the most efficient, producing (roughly) 1600 lumen each. As the wattage goes up, efficiency goes down.

Rj41 said:

The 23 watt cfl's are the most efficient, producing (roughly) 1600 lumen each. As the wattage goes up, efficiency goes down.

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That is false. I veg with 68 watt cfls that put out 7900 lumens for 116 lumens per watt compared to your 23 watters that put out 69.5 lumens per watt.

The sides of the cfl put out more light than the ends if you use a reflector. That is if you get the 360 degrees of the sides. The way you have the lights in a 45 with the y splitter, you are aiming the sides of the cfl together in one light stream, not the ends, which is exactly what you want. The sides i mean, not the ends.

A proper reflector will capture the light off the ends and the sides, such as a large clamp reflector with 2 bulbs in a y splitter. The reflector you have pictured will also capture all the light. Lumen to watt efficiency drops off around the 30 watt area. I think the higher wattage bulbs are fine though with better intensity and penetration with fewer bulbs to bother with.

nice post man. i agree that placing is key. i keep 1 or 2 pointed right at my tops at all times.

yesum said:

the sides of the cfl put out more light than the ends if you use a reflector. That is if you get the 360 degrees of the sides. The way you have the lights in a 45 with the y splitter, you are aiming the sides of the cfl together in one light stream, not the ends, which is exactly what you want. The sides i mean, not the ends.

A proper reflector will capture the light off the ends and the sides, such as a large clamp reflector with 2 bulbs in a y splitter. The reflector you have pictured will also capture all the light. Lumen to watt efficiency drops off around the 30 watt area. I think the higher wattage bulbs are fine though with better intensity and penetration with fewer bulbs to bother with.

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i base what i said on my personal expierences with my cfls! I have a $325 light meter and a $50 cheapie and they both show higher readings at the top of the bulb regardles of the reflector . I see what you mean by directing the light with the reflectors to capture more of the 180 degrees of wasted light and i agree i guess i should have made it more clear how i tested the bulbs , more as a general light source not so much as a directional light but good point thanks! Glad to see we have some smart guys in here to chime in and help out , thanks!

dont fear the reefer said:

thanks for the informative post. It would be more readable if you would exercise that caps lock key a few times when typing...

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yeah i know i just suck at typing and this helps me get my thoughts out before my failing short term memory lets them slip away in a cloud of smoke! Sorry if its tough on the eyes and i know it drives people nuts so thanks for bearing with me!

Thx drbudwannabe!

rj41 said:

the 23 watt cfl's are the most efficient, producing (roughly) 1600 lumen each. As the wattage goes up, efficiency goes down.

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the 26 watters are 1750 lumen that works out to 67.3 lumen per watt
and the 23 watters are 1600 and that works out to 69.5 so its pretty close ! Happy growing guys thx

I got a seedling under a 15W 6500K CFL under 1000 lumen and it's growing alright. it's about 1 or 2 mm from touching the bulb though because its low wattage.

However i have been putting it out in full sun all day then taking it inside for another 5-6 hours under the 15W bulb. This is becuase if i don't the pests in my garden eat the seedling as what happened the other day to the other one, it's inside every night with about 5-6 hours supplementary light then i put it out in the morning so it gets the good ol morning sun.

Is this a question or a reply or just a statement?

Sounds like just a statement. That part about the end of the light producing more lumens is pretty interesting. AND TO TELL YOU THE TRUTH: Anyone who has told me that it is THE SIDES and not the END, has NEVER had a meter to prove it!!! So kudos on that! REP.

(feel free to check out MY cfl grow )

good stuff, thanks for sharing

this is a really good example of the cfls with the "tops" pointing at the plant making the best choice for placement (i think.. ) im not sure how the water in the aquarium will effect the light readings when compaired to light levels and plants. the light levels on my cheapie meter goes from 0-2000 units so my numbers wouldnt match up to these . i will bring home the nicer light meter and see how the bulbs without the tank and water in the way! i would think the water would scatter the light everywhere and cause unstable spotty light readings just a theory though!

hey tanker where is that diagram from ? saltwater fish tank site? i would like to read more about it!

there was a guy on here that made glass boxes to put over the lenses of his hids , they were meant to cool the lights he had tub and fountain pump that pushed cool water through the boxez under the lights and cooled during recirculation. he had big problems with hot spots burning plants so he ripped it apart to try something else and i stopped following! but i know the water caused uneaven light and was only 1/2" of water pumped between two pieces of glass maybe a increase in water depth would even it out??

sorry i was rambeling!

Gastanker said:

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OK, this is really great info but I am having some trouble understanding the diagrams... I had planned on dangling from secure hooks 2 Y-split CFLS (4 bulbs total) so the "top" of the bulb would be upside down and hitting the top of my plant (the canopy?) Is this correct? Or do I have this backward where I need to position the lights in a vertical fashion, as in seen in the second image of the diagram. Thanks in advance for anyone's help.