gentlemen, how to get rid of chlorophyll?

Ok so here we go... first is frozen gold, second is roomtemp green third is my suspensions

the left side we have very cold like -5 ish with multiple multiple runs/washes centre is citric acidified and on the right we have room temp runs/washes again multi multi multi times

Hello again guys thank you for all your help.. I added like half a teaspoon of citric acid crystals to my suspensions and now this has happened...

Can anyone tell me what this is?

cronict1 said:

Hello again guys thank you for all your help.. I added like half a teaspoon of citric acid crystals to my suspensions and now this has happened...

Can anyone tell me what this is?

Click to expand...

What consistency does it have? Looks almost like the plant waxes and waste material that is left in the filter when winterizing.

Often thought of ways to remove the icky green shit my self due to having the same problem in the past.

Best i could think off but haven't had the chance to try due to not having enough oil to try this out ( i inly really make 1 to 3 gram batches), is......

Knowing oils, waxes and thc are insoluble in water and as far as i understand the chlorophyll is. I was thinking heat a small pot of water just warm enough to liquidfy the oil. In theiry the oil should float on top of the water, maybe thinn the oil with some hexane or whatever. im thinking the oil and goodies should sit on top while the chlorophyll and other water solubles absorb ito the water.

After you feel got most of the shit out stick it in the fridge to cool down and the oil to hardern again (much the same as making canna butter), remove the hard oil layer an chuck it on a silicone tray to dry for a few days.

Im not 100% if it would work or not but just an idea

Now what if you add water to ISO, soak your buds, and do an extraction of the ISO to get rid of the water. How much chlorphyll would be left in the ISO?

Getting rid of chlorophyll is something I do monthly for my own personal med. It is pretty simple but I start with raw crude and all solvents are purged before.

Take some rubbing alcohol at 70/30 isopropyl alcohol to water and put your compound into it. Then bring the solution to a low boil and boil the compound. As you boil the isopropyl alcohol will deplete and water will become dominant. You will see then that the oil is mostly just rolling around in water. The water will be milk white if terpenes are present. Isopropyl alcohol forms an azeotrope with water so will not be boiled away completely. This water and alcohol will swell the gunk including the green chlorophyll stuff. Furthermore there is a bunch of DNA that gets extracted as a rule and is lumped into a category called "waxes". Isopropyl alcohol is the only alcohol that will not disolve those DNA strands (long and spindly white gunk) and it is for this reason that labs analyzing DNA use isopropyl alcohol to recover DNA. So the bonus here too is that any DNA if present (there is a lot present in crude). All alcohols will densture DNA (it unwinds the helix strand of the DNA) but only isopropyl alcohol will leave them alone and undisolved so they can be then filtered as described.Then redisolve it all in 70/30 rubbing alcohol at room temp.

Then put a few inches of aluminum oxide 220-240 grit into a Buchner funnel and prewet it with water. Then pull the solution through the prewetted aluminum oxide. The green chlorophyll and a BUNCH of "waxes" will not be able to pass the top of the aluminum oxide.

This will remove the chlorophyll(s). I have done this now for a few years on the raw crude I obtain for personal use.

Getting rid of chlorophyll


put the wash in the direct sun for a few hours and it will turn brown

or just wash the herb frozen and solvent frozen and alls good three minutes

Sub zero extract and/or clean it up with activated charcoal from wood ash fine mesh. It's that simple

Put it in the Sun, Pyrex dish larger the better, & in 20 min alchemy occurs the green is gone...its now brown, holly cow Batman!
Folks complain, but this oil smokes fine even in a C Cell cartimizer.
More info
I like 2 diff kinds of oil Black and Gold. If u have int this is what I do:

1) Blk Oil: 1 oz herb to 20 oz everclear rm temp let it mix ~20 min, drain& strain into lg Pyrex, let it sit in sun (cover with cheese cloth)

for 20 min & alchemy occurs “green is gone”, makes 5.6 Gr Black oil, no I don’t Dewinterize...but u can if u want.

(NO HEAT used until down to 2 oz liquid in small 2x2 empty Pinzey spice jar

place on coffee warmer until All micro bubbles gone, stir with toothpic!) This oil works just fine mixed 5:2.5 ratio In C Cell cartimizer 2mm oil feed holes for vaping).


2) Gold Oil: Same as above, but use 5 lb of Dry Ice in a med size cooler
Prepare herb in glass jar & 20 oz Everclear in separate jar, when temp = minus -45f immediately mix the 2 &
shut cooler up...lightly shake cooler every 4 min., after 20 min done, drain & strain sitting in closed cooler.
Now just evaporate using fan blowing over cheese cloth cover Pyrex dish, finish off like above on coffee warmer. Yummy
I’ve tried a number of different solvents & emulsifiers(Puff Magic is my favorite did not like MCT oil & this is the way for me).
C Cell with 4-2 mm oil feed holes the way to go for vaping Amazon 2.50–3.5 ea 5 pacs usually.
Also 4 volt vape Pin 3 for $18 no ship fee Amazon... just takes some searching DH Gate for bulk buys.
( usually the 4 volt pins have 3 variable voltages & pre-heat, I don’t use preheat I think the 4 volt setting
just fine). I also use Puff Magic as a oil emulsifier, did not like MCT oil & terps r expensive.
I like 5:2.5 ratio
(Oil to Emulsifier)
I could go on & on, this is all new to me as well past year, just got tired of smoke in my lungs.
Teflon spatulas make best stir sticks & toothpic for stirring oil in Penzey Spice Jar (I save the jars when the wife is done using the spice). Absolute perfect size & thickness.
Put some oil on end of a safety pin & light iT as final check that all alcohol is evaporated u should not see any sizzle just melt...!
vapes well for me- about 45-55 hits per .5 mm cart. fill (1 oz herb will make enough oil for about 14 fills Blk oil, & 10 with gold oil or more if u want to lower the potency.)

As mentioned I use the 4 volt vape pin setting. Occasionally clean the draw tube with a pipe cleaner cut to 1 inch, appears these ceramic oil absorption takes in more than can handle-probably why I don’t use preheat function & draw soft !

Isn’t life grand, hope i didn’t bore u contact me any time.

Abyss13,
All you have done is oxidized the cholorphyll as well as some of the cannabinoids, probably changing some of the THC to CBN.
The chlorophyll is still there and it's honestly not something you should be smoking.
You're best bet is used chilled cannabis and alcohol so there is as little cholorphyll in there to begin with.
You don't need to go so far as using dry ice, a basic freezer will do the job.

righht.... still stuck here...

im seriously not understanding these acronyms people, first of all what i did was isopropyl wash, not frozen room temp... oops

then i left in the dark for ages and they auto winterised somehow in the bottles at room temp.

i strained everything off and distilled the isopropyl for reclaimation in otherwords to use again.

i was left with 6 syringes with about 30ish grams of dark tar oil, these i left in the freezer for about a month just because, i had no cash and didnt know what to do with them...

now the 30gms is dissolved in a liter of 95% ethanol and has been in the freezer for 4 days, i think i may have put to much oil into the ethanol but we will see, the colour of the liquid when i put it upto the light is orangy redish with dark matter sliding around inside the bottle, see this is why i think i put too much in.

i have dry ice on the way to winterize correctly below -44C tomorrow ,

i plan to filter, re-freeze, filter again, re freeze filter and finally distill the ethanol for re-use.

im thinking of refreezing and filtering to get it to the desired consistency and colour.

then pfff im a bit lost tbh...

i want a vapeable product in the end that is golden in colour and or dabs or some sort of smokable as pure as i can get product.

like my question is guys for the experts out there,

should i just distill the ethanol and oil to get the ethanol back and concentrate the oil, then re dissolve for winterisation?

why because i dont think all my product is dissolved in the ethanol tbh and by distilling and concentrating i could use half the oil, winterise in co2, filter then distill to use the other half of my oil...

or should i forgo the c02 buy some hexane and wala it that way?

finally when i do manage to get things done correctly, what exactly do i do to get a vapable product? inenglish with no acronyms please....

Cronict1,
Here's a patent application #US20160228787A1 that uses an azeotrope of ethanol alcohol and water (could easily be interchanged with Isopropyl alcohol).
It's still in it's application phase so there's no issue with using it as is, just don't try using this process to make money, as this could be accepted any day and then you would be infringing a patent.
The simple idea here is that you create an Oil:Alcohol:Water solution which produces the "ouzo effect" where the water becomes quite cloudy. This is called spontaneous emulsification and is quite stable (without intervention it could stay this way for a month). But if you freeze it, the oil will separate from the mixture, making it so you can literally pick the solidified oil off the alcohol:water azeotrope. In my experience freezing caused some of the oil to separate and then de-frosting after several days allowed more of the oil to come to the surface.
I have tried this with cooking oil and it works but the amount of cooking mimicked one of my recipes and this process is not for someone making 2-4 grams, but you mentioned having 30+ grams so it may work for you.
I also suggest using taller, thin flasks like a graduated cylinder to concentrate the oil into a thicker layer, rather then a wide mouth beaker which will spread the oil out over a larger surface area and thin it out quite a bit.
I would do a few practice batches on cooking oil or some other similar oil type as cannabis (coconut oil?) before committing to the real deal to ensure it works.

But this is a company that is basing a new portion of their business off this process, so read and re-read the patent document before trying this...

I hope this is helpful.

Hi thank you everyone for your help. so much actually..

so far what i understand is thus:-

1 make RSO to get the maximum amount of product out of your organic matter, this is done using isopropyl alcohol.

2 to remove the green and waxes and turpenes you evaporate the isopropyl, re dissolve in ethanol, and then freeze this solution at the lowest temerature possible for a minimum of 48hours.(dry ice)

3 place in a buchner funnel with two inces of aluminium oxide 220-240 sized particles and a filter(coffee?) underneath and vaccuum the solution through.

4

the last procedure takes out the waxes, the dna, the chlorophyl and leaves a pristine product?

am i right? or should i separate the last procedure into removing waxes/dna then again with the aluminium oxide to remove the chlorophyl?

what i am hoping to achieve is maximum efficiency with the lowest possible cost.

id like to use hexane but its £25per litre where i am so iso and eth all the way...


plus in the future i hope to make my own ethanol using a reflux still and molecular sieves to get rid of the water.. i read about bentonite bleaching clay but have yet to find a video showing its use plus its fully expensive so that's out the wndow

MikeGanja said:

What consistency does it have? Looks almost like the plant waxes and waste material that is left in the filter when winterizing.

Click to expand...

i just left them in the dark for like two weeks as i considred my options

I have not read up on your thread, but i have used MH light to remove chlorophyll. It gives off a little UV. HPS will not give off as much, sorry if this is repeated.

check out rosin, i have a video check it out.

From Pharmer Joe:

Materials needed:

Acetonitrile
Acetone
Graphite
Flash silica
Fritted funnel
Erlymeyer flask with vacuum side arm
Vacuum pump

Procedure

Dissolve oil in acetonitrile
Add 5% (oil wt) graphite and stir 1 hour
Make slurry with silica and acetonitrile
Set up filter apparatus
Pour silica slurry onto fritted funnel
When the solvent drains just above the bed surface; pour graphite mixture and apply gentle vacuum.
Clean equipment up afterwards with the acetone.

Ok so, what i have done is thus..

Isopropyl was the solvent of choice, it was washed down over the matter, placed in a dark place with a small amount of citric acid until seperation of the semi solid white stuff which i think was waxes and dna?

then frozen for like a month at -18 in a normal freezer, filtered and placed in an airstill to reclaim the iso and syringe the extract, then it was frozen again for maybe a few weeks.

this was re-dissolved in frozen ethanol left in the freezer for two days and placed in dry ice for 3-5 hours and filtered using a vaccum cleaner, a funnel with coffee filters in it and a 5 liter water bottle, this was done twice. my homemade Buchner

the ethanol was reclaimed using aforementioned airstill and now we've got 18grams of what appears to be gold/red when thin but black when in a small syringe...

i bought a vaccum chamber but forgot the pump as i thought a fishtank airpump could be reversed to suction creating the vaccuum neccessary for the remaining solvent to be purged..

what have if anything i forgotten?

and how can i get the product to be clearer than my tar like substance, it works brilliantly, people have said it's akin to a halucingen and actually ask is is this weed?