Peroxide eats the larvae up, it's very caustic to their chemical makeup/structure and will leave nothing standing in the soil depending on the concentration used... just make sure it's diluted if it's high %, or it can/will do hellacious damage to the ladies.Do a root drench with some azamax for like a week and that should kill the larvae and if you don't have a grow store near you then I'm guessing the peroxide thing, I've never heard of it but I'm sure it works just the same. Also if your doing a root drench with either of those substances then make sure your only using in veg and if you absolutely have to do it flower then make sure you can flush for at least two weeks after your root drench. Another alternative is Adding some lemon juice to your water mixture and that detours from munching on the roots, Next step is to let some lady bugs go and let them go to town on the gnats that are coming up out of the soil. That last one wont really kill them but more or less just keep them from harming your plants while at the same time keeping your plants safe from the chemicals that kill the bugs.
I wasn't sure if you'd decided on a change and were experimenting as you went - I try not to assume anything is the same if it's been in place more than a week, as I of all people, know how people like to experiment sometimes and I do so myself. The soil is pretty damn solid, and if you get a mix going similar to, or are running super soil.. it pretty much takes care of itself short of strain being very specific or cranky about what it's getting.Soil Fi!.. You know that brotha!
I've been busy my friend- sorry you havent heard from me!
I've been working on making compost bins and a worm farm for castings! Today going to buy some Red Wigglers! They were closed yesterday
I think I'll be sticking with soil for some time. Once I feel like I got a good thing going on , I'll keep doing soil but I'll start venturing into coco grows or maybe hydro. Idk yet.
Edit :
Updates for you Fi. ..
Got some Smart Pots and starting a FFOF Mix so I don't have to use any added chemicals. I'll probably use tea from my worm casting bin though.
Time of viability is adjusted by a few factors.. primary one being humidity. Every 1% drop in humidity that you can obtain in the storage container will extend the viability. (This doesn't mean to set up a rubber flap vacuum and flood it with Nitrogen.. hahaha) .. I'm prone to using 35mm film canisters with date/strain info, as there's always plenty floating around and they work lovely. Temp is another, make sure it's not super hot or freezing.. but a cool environment also helps.It's kinda a super soil mix. Mostly FFOF will be the soil. Just a lot of added minerals & etc.. However, I'll be conjuring my own organic nutes. So feed will be cake walk. Or will it?
Well see. I think as far as experimenting with different kind of mediums is not happening within this year. I want to get a solid thing going on then collect some nice buds. Still experimenting
with bag seeds so I dont fuck up the good ones.
Speaking of seeds Fi. How long can they stay good for? I'm keeping the good ones in a plastic Tupperware(s).
Peroxide generally comes in a 3% solution, what % should be used...3 parts water to 1 peroxide?.Peroxide eats the larvae up, it's very caustic to their chemical makeup/structure and will leave nothing standing in the soil depending on the concentration used... just make sure it's diluted if it's high %, or it can/will do hellacious damage to the ladies.
Mosquito dunks work as a soil drench, but they take forever and a day...or almost 2 months to be exact.BTI dunks?
For just 3%, yes.. 3:1 shouldn't be an issue.. for 35%, 70%, or 90% hydrogen peroxide.. make sure the math is done first, then do the math again before you add anything.Peroxide generally comes in a 3% solution, what % should be used...3 parts water to 1 peroxide?.
TY!, I don't have the problem yet but will come summer...happens every year when I move plants constantly from outdoors/indoors. I've tried a layer of perlite/cinnamon to prevent them from entering medium, but the little bastards just crawl in through drain holes. Last year I finally lost patience and reluctantly drenched w/an organic pesticide.For just 3%, yes.. 3:1 shouldn't be an issue.. for 35%, 70%, or 90% hydrogen peroxide.. make sure the math is done first, then do the math again before you add anything.
Ahh yes, you -might- have a few techniques mixed up I suspect.. cinnamon oil is the one that both suffocates, and dissolves spider mites.. that used with tanglefoot at the base of the plants and you can't go wrong for a very fast cleanup in the big pictureTY!, I don't have the problem yet but will come summer...happens every year when I move plants constantly from outdoors/indoors. I've tried a layer of perlite/cinnamon to prevent them from entering medium, but the little bastards just crawl in through drain holes. Last year I finally lost patience and reluctantly drenched w/an organic pesticide.
Which is something I'll never do again, despite the FDA telling me it was safe.
Tanglefoot is for stem crawlers, wonder if it would prevent spider mites?.Ahh yes, you -might- have a few techniques mixed up I suspect.. cinnamon oil is the one that both suffocates, and dissolves spider mites.. that used with tanglefoot at the base of the plants and you can't go wrong for a very fast cleanup in the big picture
By the time you need these, there are 10 times the amount of larvae chewing on your root hairs...adults die off anyways after laying eggs.you ever bend down to look at your plants and get one of them things stuck to your hair, tough times indeed. work great though