Full spectrum led?

So I'm using a full spectrum led.
I've read recently about them and a lot say they have a switch for veg and flower.
Mine does not though.
Will it still be okay for both phases?
And also will it be as efficient as one that has a switch?

You're light is most likely a Chinese manufacturer with blues and reds and whites. It will grow but its not very efficient or powerful.

It's a vivosun 300watt

I was going to buy another but didnt want to if It wasn't a decent light

It has very good reviews, and is from vivosun which is known as one of the top producers for lights and grow material

If they don't provide PAR watts, or PPF, or umol/j, 95% chance they're not worth buying.

The price is low, so whether it's a good deal for the amount of light is up for debate, but you shouldn't expect quality components at that price.

You can turn on growth switch for veg and turn on two switches for bloom. But if you turn on two switches for growth, your plants will receive more efficient light. I used my mars light in this way and my plants grow well.

They grow much better with real lights than any Chinese blurple light!Mars are just the same junk as the rest.

if you put lenses on the Mars300, its pretty good. Smaller footprint, but if you running 1 plant, it does a dang good job. and if your realllly crafty, like was, replace 40 of the diodes and replace with 3500K and a few full spectrum diodes. Its even better. with lenses alone the PAR is 1400 at 18inches in the center, but if you raise it to 30 inches, the footprint spreads and still hit 700 PAR.

AndromedaM31 said:

vivosun which is known as one of the top producers for lights and grow material

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AndromedaM31 said:

So I'm using a full spectrum led.
I've read recently about them and a lot say they have a switch for veg and flower.
Mine does not though.
Will it still be okay for both phases?
And also will it be as efficient as one that has a switch?

Click to expand...

LEDs are not full spectrum , nor will they be in the near future.

"full spectrum" leds do not contain UV or IR in their spectrum, therefore they are only partial spectrum lights that need additional supplementation to become full spectrum.

That is not remotely true?
My light contains both, and wasn't that expensive.

I'm surprised no one told you to go shit in a cup...? fucking LED snobs... I think the answer you're looking for is, worst case the veg cycle will be a little stretchy or your flower will not stretch much, both results are who cares. One bit of relevant advise; A 300w light might be called a little undersized.... add a couple CFL's during flower... sounds like it's going to be a learning experience anyway (fyi, it always is)

a lite read on light spectrum might answer some of your questions:
https://californialightworks.com/light-spectrum-and-plant-growth/

google light spectrum for plants, there are other interesting reads and studies. I am intrigued by LED grows using only the red/blue... that's just crazy to me

and oh ya, go shit in a cup...

AndromedaM31 said:

So I'm using a full spectrum led.
I've read recently about them and a lot say they have a switch for veg and flower.
Mine does not though.
Will it still be okay for both phases?
And also will it be as efficient as one that has a switch?

Click to expand...

If not to late already send them back and get a QB120 kit. The smaller Quantumboards are also available on am4zon, no need to work with this shitty outdated blurples!
Since a few years now they are not updated LED wise. They still use shitty Epistar diodes and call them Bridgelux, lol! Drivers, heatsinks, fans, diodes ... all of this is of bad quality and you'll see the first burned out diodes within the 1st year. Do yourself a favor and get at least something with a white spectrum.
Good brand COBs are Citizen, Luminus, Bridgelux or Cree, for strips and boards you could use Samsungs H-inFlux series or latest HLG Quantumboards. The HLG Elite96 kits are pretty cheap(99$) and you can run them with up to 240w! For sure 2 or 3 times more light with true white spectrum and a few supplementing deepreds.
Remember, white is a mix of all colors and is the true full spectrum even without UV and with only a bit far-red you will get much much better results. If you have ever read from harvests of +1,5g/w these results are archived with white LEDs.

For more info look at youtube
Search for "Quantumboards" or "growmau5" that's already enough for a few hours and then you're smarter ..

uncle!mumbles said:

A 300w light might be called a little undersized

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Who's talking about a 300w light? The Vivosun 300 is a 135w light. If we assume 87% efficient drivers it's a 117w output lamp. If we assume 30% efficiency (generous) it's a 35 par watt lamp.

Here is one of the threads about the Elite96 incl. PAR maps at different wattage and heights.. In general one can say one of these boards is enough to veg a 3x 3' area or flower a 2x 2' area. The thread is full of infos about proper cooling and siutable drivers. I recommend to read the full thread..

https://www.rollitup.org/t/qb96-elite-v2-w-sstx-heatsink-question.977654/page-14#post-14566023

uncle!mumbles said:

I'm surprised no one told you to go shit in a cup...? fucking LED snobs... I think the answer you're looking for is, worst case the veg cycle will be a little stretchy or your flower will not stretch much, both results are who cares. One bit of relevant advise; A 300w light might be called a little undersized.... add a couple CFL's during flower... sounds like it's going to be a learning experience anyway (fyi, it always is)

a lite read on light spectrum might answer some of your questions:
https://californialightworks.com/light-spectrum-and-plant-growth/

google light spectrum for plants, there are other interesting reads and studies. I am intrigued by LED grows using only the red/blue... that's just crazy to me

and oh ya, go shit in a cup...

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LED snobs!?! Why that?!?
Just cuz you use blurples and we recommend to use reasonable lights instead of blurples?
There is no need for any other spectrum than white and you can perfectly communicate with plants using cooler or warmer white spectrums and siutable CRI/Ra options.
If you had omitted the unnecessary shit it would be quite a useful post. So its just hard to take you seriously ..
Think about it ...

Randomblame said:

LED snobs!?! Why that?!?
Just cuz you use blurples and we recommend to use reasonable lights instead of blurples?
There is no need for any other spectrum than white and you can perfectly communicate with plants using cooler or warmer white spectrums and siutable CRI/Ra options.
If you had omitted the unnecessary shit it would be quite a useful post. So its just hard to take you seriously ..
Think about it ...

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Agreed. In theory blurple might grow just as good as white. I've seen plants under blurple. They looked healthy. In theory a par watt of blurple should have a high YPF factor.

It's not snobbish to point out that blurple lamps suck because they're generally inefficient and use low quality parts. That's trying to be helpful.

I look forward to the day someone builds a blurple lamp with quality drivers and top bin diodes. We can quantify the output, compare the yield and determine how it stacks up. Until them blurple is the shady dude on the corner selling "Rolex" watches.

Rahz said:

I look forward to the day someone builds a blurple lamp with quality drivers and top bin diodes. We can quantify the output, compare the yield and determine how it stacks up. Until them blurple is the shady dude on the corner selling "Rolex" watches.

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ive actually noticed this shift. obviously not on amazon where 100w lights are marketed as 1000w lights. but if you go to some of the more "reputable" blurple manufacturers like Mars and Unit Farm their claims are becoming more realistic. i think i saw a 700w light marketed as a 900w. i can deal with that... now the crap drivers and diodes... we'll see if that EVER changes.

Rahz said:

Agreed. In theory blurple might grow just as good as white. I've seen plants under blurple. They looked healthy. In theory a par watt of blurple should have a high YPF factor.

It's not snobbish to point out that blurple lamps suck because they're generally inefficient and use low quality parts. That's trying to be helpful.

I look forward to the day someone builds a blurple lamp with quality drivers and top bin diodes. We can quantify the output, compare the yield and determine how it stacks up. Until them blurple is the shady dude on the corner selling "Rolex" watches.

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its called Perfect Sun Black Diamond Line