don't mind at all! thanx for the compliments once again! I used to follow cycos feed schedule pretty strictly until i found it was creating burns, foxtails and still heacily green leaves towards the end of harvest...so come flowering i only use base nutrient (bloom A + B) , slica at recommended strength , and i use swell at about 3/4 strength and watch closely for burn signs. I have completely eliminated any Nitrogen products during flowering as i understand it is the plants process now to use up the stored nitrogen that is available in the stems and leaves and a bit left over in the medium ofcourse. This helps with the maturing of the plant in my opinion as i have noticed outdoor plants do it more easily as the sun or something must break down something and get the process happening automatically. In hydro if we continue to feed nitrogen we can easily over-feed it. I noticed 100% better results eliminating these nutrients and did not harm my yield at all, if anything it helped it and kept my uniformed bud appearance and leaves discolouration towards the end and brang out the purple colours...which i kinda lost in the drying process a little, so this harvest i will try to go for a little longer and strip those leaves of any colour
I also think my key yielding factors come from only applying my pottassium during the first stages of flowering 1-3 weeks, then move to high phosphorous/ low potassium as the 2 tend to cause burns very easily together. Potassium helps transport carbs, and phosphorous turns it into usable plant food which would usually break down very quickly, and become 'wasted' Phsophorous works by binding itself and growing so while turning into a usable plant food it increases in mass and forces the plant to feed more and use more water....This is not an exact theory by any means,
this is what i have come to learn from researching and finding my own conclusion based on my own direct results. Alot of companies tell you these key things on the packaging....BUT are they really adapting this to their regime??? I'm almost positive they just want you to buy more of their product even if your plants don't need it.....
now time to cop the Flak
but honestly, i think my results speak for themselves and even though i differ from each grow a little i hope that i can show people that a simple effective system is possible even if you don't follow the usual 'booklet' Indoors is a whole different ball game to outside, and trying to mimic mother nature is one thing....but to cheat it
that's Gold.
the camera has a custom temperature setting which cancels out 95% of the red spectrum the HID produces, and at the moment i got my pro-gro bulb in which is a much higher red then my son-t agro, and i think that helps give that really dark green vibrant look as i kinda swaps oposite ends of the spectrum so i get much greener colours (more natural) heaps easy to find a good balance with this camera, and gets easier as i get closer to the bulb within around 12 inches away, but anything closer than that and i can't compensate for shutter speed and the pics end up to bright and washed with white.
If i want to see lots of green, flash off and find a good ISO setting to match shutter-speed.
Did you say you had the same camera? can't remember alot of people have bought it since me....hmmm coincidence perhaps lol
