First organic issues

Obepawn

Obepawn

Well-Known Member
Prince Vegeta said:
It's daily worse
Don't expect her to survive the week
Am salty
Was the best looking healthiest plant I've ever grown
So how do I prevent it from happening to my others
As in correcting the issue in the unused soil container
Do I add more of something?
Remove something somehow?
Not to the soil with plants but to my tote of soil that my next plants were going into
Or do I need to just scrap that tote and cook some more while I have time
I don't need more soil for my next cycle for a month I could stretch that a llittoe longer b
if that's what I need to do could you suggest tweaks to be made? I am still hella new to this style of growing and I clearly couldn't follow even simple instructions so not sure what I'm gonna do from this point
Guess I'll go buy some bag soil and nutrients and stick to the synthetic style
Heartbreaking
Click to expand...
Flush with 1/4 strength nutes. Remember the post above. There is a way simpler form of super soil for beginners that will take you through flower, water only. There is a thread on the Grasscity forum call “Simple organic soil for beginners “. It’s in their organic section and has over a thousand pages. It’s the shit and ima give you the basics, it’s easy. Number 1 principal you failed on is KISS, less is more.

Soil base:

1/3 Sphagnum peat moss.
1/3 EWC or Compost.
1/3 perlite or other aeration.

1-cup dolomite lime per cubic foot.

Nutrients:
1-cup of kelp meal

1 1/2 cups of organic fertilizer. Tomato tone, plant tone, dr earth all purpose are just a few you could use. So 2-3 cups of nutrients per cubic foot. Do not go over 3 cups. More is not better.
If you like you could use your own mix of organic nutes but it can’t exceed 3-cups per cubic foot. Make sure to double the kelp in relation to other nutrients. Here’s an example: 1-cup bone meal/ 1-cup alfalfa meal/ 2-cups kelp meal/ 1-cup crab meal and 1 cup neem meal. Mix this shit together really well and then use 2 1/2 - 3 cups of it as your nutrient base in your soil. The rest can be stored and use as a top dress or for your recycled soil.

Minerals:
4-cups rock dust/ Azomite etc.. I bought 30lbs bag of granite dust (Glacier rock dust) at Lowe’s for $6.00 and that will last me a few years.

Let this soil sit for 3-4 weeks and you don’t need to let it heat up just inoculate it with recharge or a compost/ EWC tea. Simple as shit. Waaaaaay too many nutes in your mix bro. Use this simpler method til you get a better understanding of organics and you’ll be good.

Hope this helps.
 
L

loco41

Well-Known Member
Obepawn said:
Flush with 1/4 strength nutes. Remember the post above. There is a way simpler form of super soil for beginners that will take you through flower, water only. There is a thread on the Grasscity forum call “Simple organic soil for beginners “. It’s in their organic section and has over a thousand pages. It’s the shit and ima give you the basics, it’s easy. Number 1 principal you failed on is KISS, less is more.

Soil base:

1/3 Sphagnum peat moss.
1/3 EWC or Compost.
1/3 perlite or other aeration.

1-cup dolomite lime per cubic foot.

Nutrients:
1-cup of kelp meal

1 1/2 cups of organic fertilizer. Tomato tone, plant tone, dr earth all purpose are just a few you could use. So 2-3 cups of nutrients per cubic foot. Do not go over 3 cups. More is not better.
If you like you could use your own mix of organic nutes but it can’t exceed 3-cups per cubic foot. Make sure to double the kelp in relation to other nutrients. Here’s an example: 1-cup bone meal/ 1-cup alfalfa meal/ 2-cups kelp meal/ 1-cup crab meal and 1 cup neem meal. Mix this shit together really well and then use 2 1/2 - 3 cups of it as your nutrient base in your soil. The rest can be stored and use as a top dress or for your recycled soil.

Minerals:
4-cups rock dust/ Azomite etc.. I bought 30lbs bag of granite dust (Glacier rock dust) at Lowe’s for $6.00 and that will last me a few years.

Let this soil sit for 3-4 weeks and you don’t need to let it heat up just inoculate it with recharge or a compost/ EWC tea. Simple as shit. Waaaaaay too many nutes in your mix bro. Use this simpler method til you get a better understanding of organics and you’ll be good.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...
Well said sir. I am very new to organic mixes and growing in general, but I had much better success following this type method as opposed to using a pre-mixed product (FFoF for me as well). Nothing but problems when I grew with amended FFoF. The first batch I made from scratch, similar to what was posted above but even used a few more amendments, was super easy going and very minimal problems. Just a couple basic teas and one fish hydrolysate feeding was all. All the issues I ran into during my cycle with my mix were just noob growers errors and letting my soil get too dry. If I were you, I'd mix up a batch like obepawn said. You can always topdress with some ewc and kelp/alfalfa/neem and prolly fix many deficiencies that way.

Again, I am no pro by any means, but I really liked the advice he just laid out for you. Hope it all goes well whatever you do and wish you nothing but success sir.
 
C

cbdandthc

Member
Prince Vegeta said:
Hey how's it going ? Well I hope.
Not so good over here
I am in my first super soil run
Followed the recipe in the book
" true living organics 2edition" by the rev.
However I did NOT use the spikes like I was supposed to.
I'm now seeing issues because of my laziness.
She is 17 days into flower and im starting to get some hefty yellowing.View attachment 4348192 View attachment 4348193 View attachment 4348194
She has only ever gotten ro water with 5ml of botanicare calmag+ per gallon of water I added to the tank.
Is in a 5 g fabric pot
Ppm of water before cal mag is 4.
Accidentally flooded one of them one day
( all in same soil) and the runoff was 6.5
I don't ph the ro water
I'm assuming I need a tea of some sort.
But honestly I am so new to the organic i dont even know where to start.

I have her hooked up to a blunt carrot
Click to expand...
Hey bro, keep this in mind:
Temperatures above 28°C prevent cannabis plants from efficiently photosynthesising and cause buds to form more loosely and airy. Heat can cause cannabis plants to leave yellow leaves
 
Obepawn

Obepawn

Well-Known Member
cbdandthc said:
Hey bro, keep this in mind:
Temperatures above 28°C prevent cannabis plants from efficiently photosynthesising and cause buds to form more loosely and airy. Heat can cause cannabis plants to leave yellow leaves
Click to expand...
Not always the case. Currently finishing up an experiment with Blue Mystic Autos, where it’s hitting over 100 degrees with lows from 88-92 degrees. The buds are not airy at all and they are actually pretty solid. What does happen is stunted bud growth so the buds don’t reach there size potential. The yellow leaves come from nutrient burn from constant over respiration. The plant is pulling in extra water to cool it’s self down but in the process is pulling it more nutes than it needs. That is why you cut nutes to 1/2 or even 1/4 during severe heat stress. Then there is the hermie issue which one of mine did.
 
Last edited:
Obepawn

Obepawn

Well-Known Member
cbdandthc said:
Hey bro, keep this in mind:
Temperatures above 28°C prevent cannabis plants from efficiently photosynthesising and cause buds to form more loosely and airy. Heat can cause cannabis plants to leave yellow leaves
Click to expand...
Just curious, why did you bring up heat stress issues when he never said he was dealing with high temps. His problem was fast acting lime and too much calcium which is causing lockout.
 
Prince Vegeta

Prince Vegeta

Well-Known Member
Obepawn said:
Not always the case. Currently finishing up an experiment with Blue Mystic Autos, where it’s hitting over 100 degrees with lows from 88-92 degrees. The buds are not airy at all and they are actually pretty solid. What does happen is stunted bud growth so the buds don’t reach there size potential. The yellow leaves come from nutrient burn from constant over respiration. The plant is pulling in extra water to cool it’s self down but in the process is pulling it more nutes than it needs. That is why you cut nutes to 1/2 or even 1/4 during severe heat stress. Then there is the hermie issue which one of mine did.
Click to expand...
Mine only get ro water tho
Also I have a dehumidifier @55 Rh with an ac unit keeping steady 86° so it's not either of those
 
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