First grow - I think my plants need help?

Hey guys, I'm starting to get worried about my plants. They're starting to look a bit yellow and getting some spots on some of the leaves. I've also noticed a very small (size of a flea) insect. Either flys or jumps around, very hard to notice and hard to squash. What should I be using to control pests like this?

Yesterday I found an insecticide spray called Brunnings - White Oil in my garage (i think active ingredient was petroleum oil). I sprayed a little on my plants but a few hours later decided to use a spray bottle to try and wash it off a bit. That probably wasn't a good idea thought cause now that shit will be in my soil I guess.

I started out watering with a spray bottle and would just keep spraying over the plant/soil until it was all dampened. I forgot that the roots need the water so now I water with a spout-type device and soak the soil until it starts to drip through the drain holes. I also flushed it the other day (kept watering it until a fair bit had flowed out the drain holes) hoping to remove some of the fertilizer in case I had over-nuted. I only water when the top is crusty dry but I dont check how deep down its dry (although I think I'm supposed to wait until its dry a few inches down).

Started out using a 40W incandescent bulb.
Grow is in a built-in wardrobe (closet).
Timer controlled 16/8 light cycle (4am dawn)
I have a small fan (Non-oscillating, ie. it doesnt move) to try and circulate air, control temp and expose the plant to wind to strenghten its stem.
I open sliding doors to wardrobe (grow area) several times a day (I understand this is sufficient in adding fresh air. I also have 2 corragated (spelling?) drainage pipes I've cut up. Once runs from above plant to ceiling (to TRY to get old air away from plant) and another one running from inside to outside the wardrobe to try and allow air in when doors are shut (I close both doors at night to keep light out but during day I open the side away from plant to try and allow air flow.

I live in Australia, it's start of summer, can get quite hot.

25/November - Some started sprouting from polysterene containers filled with potting mix

Searles Premium Potting Mix

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]An excellent general potting mixture.[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Feeds plants for up to 4 months.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Certified Premium Grade AS 3743.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Excellent general purpose premium potting mix (indoor, outdoor and semi-shade).[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Contains Searles Water Crystals.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Contains Searles Robust® Controlled Release Fertiliser.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Contains Searles Penetraide® Re-Wetting Granules.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Contains Zeolite plus added Trace Elements and Minerals.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Contains Peat Moss plus Real Organic Compost.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Searles® quality guaranteed product.[/FONT]
[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]• Also ideal for self watering pots.[/FONT]

30/November - First sprouters 2-3" tall (3 plants in same polysterene cup) shrivelled up and died.

3/December - Repotted remaining 2 plants to a 7" diamater, 5" deep pot.. mainly just potting mix with a bit of backyard red dirt added. Added some fertliser on top.
vv
Brunnings - Nitrophoska Slow Release fertilizer for Roses
"Nitrophoska Slow Release Fertiliser for Roses is the ideal fertiliser for established roses. It releases some nutrients immediately to stimulate flower growth and feeds up to 4 months to promote long term health in your roses.

Nitrophoska Slow Release for Roses is the complete nutrient for all rose situations including garden beds, potted, creeping and ground cover roses."

I know it's for roses, but it's all I could find laying around (dont have the cash at the moment to buy ferts). I tried to use less than the recommend amount. All the elements/mineral info is on the container, I can get this if you need it (you probably do but I'm feeling too lazy to go and get it at the moment).

9/December - Changed 40W incandescent for Philips 24W 6500K CFL (1450 lumen, 63 lm/W). Added aluminium foil around plant about this time, but got rid of it after a day or two.

12/December (Today) - Added 2 more CFLs, another 6500K (Mirabella, only 18W) and a Philips 24W 2700K (1550 lumen, 67 lm/W). Original 6500K is above plant and other two lights are at side.

Um, thats all I can think of now, if you need anymore info about my grow to diagnose problems, please ask. Thanks in advance

Pics taken today after setting up new lights.

they're for sure stretched, keep those CFLs 2" from the plants so they dont stretch anymore. the discoloration may be a watering problem or a nutirent deficiency. are you feeding them any nutes?

Honestly I don't know how many times I have said it.

"DO NOT USE TIME RELEASE FERTILIZERS INDOORS"

if ur using nutes STOP now they are way too young for nutes also 2 plants in the same pot is not recomended the will fight for root space, you might find one grows much better than the other because of this.

Thankyou everyone for all the advice, I will repot them ASAP.

Thanks

I had the new CFLs about an inch away from plants and after a few hours I checked on them and the leaves looked like they were starting to get a burn spot near the light. So i moved them a bit further away and kept checking on them, they seemed fine so i went to bed and when i woke up the leaves near them had curled down real bad. I guess it was enough extra heat to bother them

The plants stretched b/c you were using an incandescent bulb at first- this type of light isn't optimal for any plant life. When you repot, repot up to the small cotyledon leaves- they'll reroot around the stem and will grow stronger (you'll also eliminate the stretching). Keep the CFLs about 2 inches away (especially the larger CFLs). Usually, you can keep CFLs pretty close without burning.