First Grow: 1000 Watt HPS Feminized Seeds!!

any estimates on harvest size? i counted 9 coloa's, and about 30 side branches that get complete light. there's also various bud spots everywhere, too many to count. im baked right now but it crossed my mind. hopefully nothing goes wrong, i check my girls at least 4 times a day and have them pretty dialed in.

Here is a video a made to help guess.

[video=youtube;cx9TltFjjtk]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cx9TltFjjtk[/video]

Sup guys. Slowly creeping up to that harvest day now, less than 50 days left. Here are some pictures

Plants are lookin great dude!!!

Those plants really filled out nicely and you're only at 3 weeks, whoa!

thanks hotphyre

and thank you t0rn, but i wish i was at week 8 or something lol

Was reading back through your journal, you said the tallest plant was 24" when you started to flower. The plants seem to have gone through most of their stretching, how tall are they now?

I'm asking because my 1000w isn't movable up and down, I have it fixed to the ceiling in my little room, 7' tall. The hood drops to about 6' in the room and my buckets are about 1' tall leaving me a little under 5' of grow height. Trying to figure out what size plants to throw into the flowering room basically.

Why don't you have the light on a chain? Or can't you do that? The tallest plant now is 38 inches. A week ago it was 36, so It's safe to say they are slowing down.

I would really try lowering that light to your plants, or raising the plants, so they can get as close to the light as possible. That's what i've been doing with mind, and that's why i believe they are doing so well. I'll never have the light more than 18 inches away from the canopy, that way they don't want to stretch what so ever. You might see stretch because your light is so high, and thus your plants will get taller before they get wider.

If it's impossible though, i would veg to when they are 2-3 feet just to be safe.

24" to 36/38" is about half the plant. All you read around here is how plants double to triple in height, I guess that's light dependent.

I was pretty baked when I wrote the last comment, still kinda high

I actually do plan on having another foot off the ground with a wooden platform I made. I don't want to have the pots down on the cold concrete so I'm left with about 4' before the plants touch the light. 4' to the top of the pot essentially. Even at that point the soil will be getting roughly 10k lumens per sq. ft. and growing exponentially as you move up toward the light. I guess I could chain the thing up but it was such a bitch to get it mounted in the first place. I had to disassemble all of the reflective material and crap to get to the base of the hood to drill holes and hard mount it.

I'm starting to lean toward 24" plants. If the plant triples in height I'll be running into troubles and have to supercrop tops, but as you said it's probably light dependent.

Thanks for the help man and checks my thread out. I got this grow subbed.



Edit: Would be cool if you did a side by side and maybe some top angles of the differences in each of the plants methods (topped, fimmed, natural) as they are growing now and what method you see working the best.

The plants didn't really double or triple in size because I've been trying to keep the light as close to them as possible. Closer the light, shorter the plant, denser the nugs

I would definitely chain the light up, even if it isnt easy to do. The results will be much better than having the light that high from the plants.

I'll take some pictures in a few days of each of them and explain what i did to each. I'm noticing the cola's on the non topped plants are slightly bigger. This might change though, it's too early to tell.

Looking good, man. Looks like it's gonna be Happy Holidays in your house

Did you say this is in an attic? Might want to shield the ceiling for IR. Courts have ruled IR cameras illegal but it's been proven Po Po uses them anyway. Considering the value of your crop, maybe spend the money and get some biological countermeasures for your bug problem:

Biological Mite Control
Predatory mites are, in many new age gardener’s opinions, the best way to control spider mites. Predatory mites are mites that do not feed on plants but on other mites, like the two-spotted mite, for instance. Predatory mites can usually be mail-ordered from a horticultural warehouse or purchased online from any number of online gardening vendors. For the sake of brevity, we will cover just three of the most common predatory mites used to kill and control spider mites:

Phytoseiulus persimilis is referred to by the Cornell University Extension office as “ one of the mainstays of greenhouse integrated pest management.” The great thing about this species of mite is that it cleans up after itself once the spider mite population is gone—cannibalizing on each other, thus decimating their own populations.

Metaseiulus occidentalis is another common predatory mite used to kill spider mites. It is an effective biological control only if temperatures are on average between 44 degrees and 89 degrees Fahrenheit.

Phytoseiulus longpipes is essentially a variant of the Phytoseiulus persimilis mite brought in from Africa which can stand warmer ambient temperatures than its North American cousins. Longpipes is seeing a gain in popularity among gardeners who would rather deploy a biological spider mite control agent than a chemical or physical control.

Thanks bud, i just wish they were going to be done before the holidays! But i guess i got something to look forward to about 2 weeks after the new year

Thats some great info shemp. I think i'm going to purchase some phytoseiulus persimilis in the spring. The mites seem to be under control knock on wood. I'm growing in my shed now, but plan to put some in the attic in a few months. What could i use to shield my attic walls to prevent the heat seeking cameras? Since i'm growing in the shed and have complete control over the temps, i've been letting the temps at night get to the lower 60's, and i never have the temps above 80. I believe that's why I had such a big outbreak before, because the shed would always be over 80F, sometimes close to 90F. They really do hate the cold, and it makes it harder for them to reproduce so fast.

+rep for the info

I love when there are snow flurries in my grow room

watch in HD!

[video=youtube;c_s4i1QDVgU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c_s4i1QDVgU[/video]

Lookin real good bro!!!!

Today starts week 5 of flowering.

Been busy (thanks HP for the love, you always got love ).. the ladies have been as well as you can see. The smell is starting to get to me
(I think the plant with 4 tops is going to be done sooner than the rest, she's got bigger nugs and her leaves have been yellowing off a much rapid rate.)

Lookin real good Bro!!

Soon enough you will be smokin the fruit of your loins!!! lol

just another update. ill post the video once it's done uploading. i think they should be done before 70 days? hopefully. im thinking 3 more weeks i hope.

There looking really good dude!!

Thanks HP i believe you are the only one that's really following my grow lol But thank you again for the kind words. I just smoked a tiny piece I had drying since yesterday, and im pretty high!

video:
[video=youtube;X0vAKTbOoxQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0vAKTbOoxQ[/video]