First 1000 watt grow
- Thread starter axeman916
- Start date
RottenRoots
Active Member
If I were you I'd transplant into a hotter soil unless your supplementing with liquid ferts. The guano is a good idea but you would want to add that to your soil and cook it for a month with other ammendments, like ewc, fish bone meal, bloodmeal, rocks (azomite), perlite and coco to keep it an airy mix, etc.
If you don't want to mix your own soil, I'd reccomend using vermicrop organics. They have a super light soil and a hot soil, vermasoil and vermifire. (Start out in the light soil transplant into hot soil later.)
If I'm not mistaken, the fox farms soil is connected with its fert line. Which is a chemical/organic line. Not sure if the soil itself will supply the nutrients your plants need for a full life cycle. I have grown in roots organics, which is similar to ffof, and had to supplement with liquid nutes during flower. Haven't had direct experience with the ocean forest but have heard that its about the same. But yea, this is why I suggest using HOT organic soil mixes, you only need to feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants.
Anyways sorry for ramblin on your page your plants are looking very healthy, nice start to your first 1000w grow. + Rep
If you don't want to mix your own soil, I'd reccomend using vermicrop organics. They have a super light soil and a hot soil, vermasoil and vermifire. (Start out in the light soil transplant into hot soil later.)
If I'm not mistaken, the fox farms soil is connected with its fert line. Which is a chemical/organic line. Not sure if the soil itself will supply the nutrients your plants need for a full life cycle. I have grown in roots organics, which is similar to ffof, and had to supplement with liquid nutes during flower. Haven't had direct experience with the ocean forest but have heard that its about the same. But yea, this is why I suggest using HOT organic soil mixes, you only need to feed the soil and the soil will feed your plants.
Anyways sorry for ramblin on your page your plants are looking very healthy, nice start to your first 1000w grow. + Rep
axeman916
Well-Known Member
Babble on man if it helps me ittl help someonelse. I am using the fox farm lineup of nutes big bloom, tiger bloom, grow big, open sesame, beasty bloomz, cha ching, I also use a molasses . I get the whole bunch for like 80 buks so I use it and if it pays off it pays off. Ya kno. But I have been tginking about a new soil or self mixing my own. I just get the ff so cheap! Anyway I appriciate the feedback, feel free to chime in
RottenRoots
Active Member
Oh true that, the guano shouldn't be neccesary then.
I'll be following along.
I'll be following along.
SOMEBEECH
Well-Known Member
Gets hot here also im in Texas,there is no way I could run my 1ks without A/C.
Lucky im in the trade.
Beech
RottenRoots
Active Member
Different phenotype? Are they from seeds or clones?
RottenRoots
Active Member
I just did a bunch of research on spinosad, sadly they don't seem to affect spidermites. I had mites and kept them down with pepper spray, habeneros juice and water. The active proteins kill the mites on contact I believe. The eggs kept hatching though so it was an on going battle. Never found an organic larvacide that could be used during flower.
A lot of people use those hot shot pest strips on this forum. It puts of a poisonous vapor to kill insects but the manufacturer says they shouldn't be used near edible plants or in occupied areas, so I never used them.
I would say the best way to get rid of mites safely is with predator mites. Each one kills 5 spidermites or eats 20 eggs a day. They reproduce twice as fast as spidermites do and they either leave or kill each other off when the spidermites are gone.
Hope this helps
A lot of people use those hot shot pest strips on this forum. It puts of a poisonous vapor to kill insects but the manufacturer says they shouldn't be used near edible plants or in occupied areas, so I never used them.
I would say the best way to get rid of mites safely is with predator mites. Each one kills 5 spidermites or eats 20 eggs a day. They reproduce twice as fast as spidermites do and they either leave or kill each other off when the spidermites are gone.
Hope this helps
southsacboy916
Well-Known Member
If u can't get some predator bugs u can use azamax which will help keep them under control. Also if u can lower the temps n raise the humidity in ur room. Spider mites like it hot n dry.
How bad is the infestation? If you're seeing webs then you're screwed. I would scrap that plant and start over if you are at that point. I believe it only takes 3 days for the mites life cycle to start (egg to maturity). Buying one bomb isn't going to eradicate them. You are going to have to treat with several different methods as they build up a tolerance. There is tons of different ways to try to get rid of them just do a search and see what works for you. Azatrol, Azamax, dr doom bombs, mitey wash, neem oil, etc.. But like I said before once you have webs on your plants its game over. Thats like their highway and when they move from plant to plant.
The crappy thing about having them in flower is trying not to spray your buds. You can run into problems there
Good luck with the war on the BORG.
I've always gone by 6000 BTU for 1k un cooled lights.
axeman916
Well-Known Member
Yo southsac wats up bro. Im leanin toward azamax n I dont have webbing but there everywere and im not gunna have these little fuckers ruin my crop. The temps are getting high n I been workn 6days a week plus all the gardening. Do ladybugs work? Like a fuck load? Thanks for the help guys I appriciate it.