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fiberglass / insulation prevention

ayr0n

ayr0n

Well-Known Member
So I just put up another tent n our "storage" area in the basement, and this room is unfinished. There's bags of insulation up on the floor joists n half of them are ripped / torn. Now that I've got some negative pressure going inside the tent I'm kind of worried about that shit floating in n getting on the plants especially when they go to flower...

U guys think if I taped something like this -
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-HRF-B1-Premium-Odor-Reducing-Air-Purifier-Pre-Filter-HRF-B1/202184309 - in front of the intake it would suffice? I can't really cover the joists without doing a drop ceiling because whoever built this ran pipes and cords under the joists :/
 
ayr0n

ayr0n

Well-Known Member
Another question - should I turn the fan off before opening up the tent each time so it isn't vacuuming that shit out of the air or with the tent unzipped would it pretty much lose its negative pressure? I know the cieling should just be finished but I just cashed out on building the other room n even tapped into my savings a bit to get all my equipment so its time to chill out on this money sink a little. Fun hobby but it can get expensive quick lol...
 
GreatwhiteNorth

GreatwhiteNorth

Global Moderator
Staff member
Can you get a roll of tyvek and cover that shit ?
It would be much better to eliminate the fiberglass through mitigation than trying to devise a way it won't get in (because we both know it will).
 
AlecTheGardener

AlecTheGardener

Well-Known Member
Grab a roll of kraft paper that is a nice width and staple it to the joists.

BAM!

Done.

Tyvek is much too expensive, kraft paper is what the batts are made of already and is quite cheap.

Tyvek is waaaay to expensive for this purpose, a bit like using gold leaf toilet paper in the loo.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
AlecTheGardener said:
Grab a roll of kraft paper that is a nice width and staple it to the joists.

BAM!

Done.

Tyvek is much too expensive, kraft paper is what the batts are made of already and is quite cheap.

Tyvek is waaaay to expensive for this purpose, a bit like using gold leaf toilet paper in the loo.
Click to expand...
One should seriously consider the use of a less flammable material.

Drywall is the preferred material as it provides a barrier against fire.

Poly or tyvek would be infinitely preferable over kraft paper. Don't want to burn down his home.
 
ayr0n

ayr0n

Well-Known Member
GreatwhiteNorth said:
Can you get a roll of tyvek and cover that shit ?
It would be much better to eliminate the fiberglass through mitigation than trying to devise a way it won't get in (because we both know it will).
Click to expand...
AlecTheGardener said:
Grab a roll of kraft paper that is a nice width and staple it to the joists.

BAM!

Done.

Tyvek is much too expensive, kraft paper is what the batts are made of already and is quite cheap.

Tyvek is waaaay to expensive for this purpose, a bit like using gold leaf toilet paper in the loo.
Click to expand...
SnapsProvolone said:
One should seriously consider the use of a less flammable material.

Drywall is the preferred material as it provides a barrier against fire.

Poly or tyvek would be infinitely preferable over kraft paper. Don't want to burn down his home.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the replies - yeah I'm not sure want I was thinking but you guys are right. Better hit it at the source.
 
AlecTheGardener

AlecTheGardener

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
One should seriously consider the use of a less flammable material.

Drywall is the preferred material as it provides a barrier against fire.

Poly or tyvek would be infinitely preferable over kraft paper. Don't want to burn down his home.
Click to expand...
Fair enough.


If he already has exposed batts I think a bit of additional paper is the least of his worries.

Drywall is certainly the preference for permanent solutions.


**
Additionally I recently did a few simple tests involving tyvek, I had some left over after a bathroom remodel.

It melts and catches, I was not impressed with its capacity for flame retardation.

As snaps suggested, drywall that area for a much safer and long term solution.
 
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SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Paper on those bats is however treated to greatly reduce flammability. Borax I believe.

Tyvek is a little, stressing little, better suited to this use than is kraft paper. Spunbonded olefin melts away from a localized ignition source and ignites at over 750f, again better than kraft paper.

Agreed that the use of drywall, is by code and common sense, the way to go.
 
ayr0n

ayr0n

Well-Known Member
AlecTheGardener said:
Fair enough.


If he already has exposed batts I think a bit of additional paper is the least of his worries.

Drywall is certainly the preference for permanent solutions.


**
Additionally I recently did a few simple tests involving tyvek, I had some left over after a bathroom remodel.

It melts and catches, I was not impressed with its capacity for flame retardation.

As snaps suggested, drywall that area for a much safer and long term solution.
Click to expand...
SnapsProvolone said:
Paper on those bats is however treated to greatly reduce flammability. Borax I believe.

Tyvek is a little, stressing little, better suited to this use than is kraft paper. Spunbonded olefin melts away from a localized ignition source and ignites at over 750f, again better than kraft paper.

Agreed that the use of drywall, is by code and common sense, the way to go.
Click to expand...
I can't do drywall because there's pipes running across the bottom of the joists, and then duct work in one corner as well - gonna have to run a drop ceiling eventually, but I'll just run flame retardant visqueen / plastic across for a temporary solution. I don't really see any threat of fire - no exposed wires or anything like that...just want to keep that fiberglass away from my lungs and my plants -.-
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Just had to. -> nobody sees the threat of the fire until the fire. If you have electricity then there is a potential for an arc, thus why we perform all junctions in an approved manner.

One might use some 2x2 to "furr" out the bottom of the joists and bulkhead the ductwork. Then one can drywall provided extreme care is taken to avoid running a screw into a pipe.
 
ayr0n

ayr0n

Well-Known Member
SnapsProvolone said:
Just had to. -> nobody sees the threat of the fire until the fire. If you have electricity then there is a potential for an arc, thus why we perform all junctions in an approved manner.

One might use some 2x2 to "furr" out the bottom of the joists and bulkhead the ductwork. Then one can drywall provided extreme care is taken to avoid running a screw into a pipe.
Click to expand...
I have a feeling you would have really hated the house we were renting before we bought this one lmao...Appreciate all the tips man - I'll definitely consider extending the joists w/ 2x2's and running drywall. You don't think a drop ceiling would be adequate? If it's drywalled and there's ever an issue with a pipe leaking or something you'd have to completely rip it down n start over but with a drop ceiling it'd be easy to pop out a few panels n get to the problem
 
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Aeroknow

Aeroknow

Well-Known Member
Keep in mind, you can't hang anything, with any kind of weight to it, from a T-bar ceiling(which is what I'm assuming you mean by drop ceiling). You can if it is a suspended drywall ceiling! I'm not saying you can't do it, but, It's not really a DIY type of thing.
As previously suggested, i would do some framing and rock that shit. Might as well fire tape it too ;-)
 
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