Fencepost NFT not working

socalbarn

Member
Im new to the forum and I have a problem. I have been using this system for 2 years and have been very successful. So whats the problem? After a 1.5 lb per 1000watt harvest in Dec my last 2 grows have failed because of root rot. Same system cleaned meticulously ,same mother who is vibrant and healthy, clones were veged for 5 weeks in a mister system and were robust with healthy roots, transition to NFT with 1/2 strength nutes, water temp at 70 degrees, air temp no more than 80 degrees, 8" airstone in 40 gallon res. ppm 900 or less ph 5.7 , GH nutes exactly the same for 2 years and now I cant grow. 2 days after the plants are transfered to the NFT they begin to wilt, leaves turn yellow and they stop growing and what appears to root rot begins. I am sleepless now trying to figure out what the hell Im doin different and cant figure it out.
 

gcvt420

Well-Known Member
Sorry to hear of your problems. When you clean the system after harvest, how exactly do you clean it? Do you run H202 in your res? All your specs look good :?
 

socalbarn

Member
Sorry to hear of your problems. When you clean the system after harvest, how exactly do you clean it? Do you run H202 in your res? All your specs look good :?
I have always cleaned with diluted bleach, scrub , rinse and rinse again with clean water never a problem before but Im thinking maybe it was a different bleach and the residue is the problem. Never have used H2o2 before for cleaning or otherwise. No root or growing problems in the misters just when i transfer. Thanks for any and all suggestions cause Im baffled:wall:
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
the main design flaw with the stinkbud system or fencepost nft is the drain back to the res, too many times people make cutouts that expopse running water to intense lighting. i prefer to run water temps no more than 68F and im sure you know by now above 74f is a problem. usually if a room with ambient temps of 80F the water shouldnt be too far behind even in the shade, perhaps at some points of the day your water temps reach the 75F? my advice would be to start using hygrozyme, it prevents and used properly will defeat root rot
 

socalbarn

Member
the main design flaw with the stinkbud system or fencepost nft is the drain back to the res, too many times people make cutouts that expopse running water to intense lighting. i prefer to run water temps no more than 68F and im sure you know by now above 74f is a problem. usually if a room with ambient temps of 80F the water shouldnt be too far behind even in the shade, perhaps at some points of the day your water temps reach the 75F? my advice would be to start using hygrozyme, it prevents and used properly will defeat root rot
Thanks for reply. I use chillers and the temp is set at 68 so water never gets above 70. Hygrozyme is always used form clone to flower. I just produced a 6lb per 4-1000watt crop . Im baffled because it only took 2 days for the plants to show stress. Does root rot progress that rapidly or am I diagnosing the problem incorrectly
 

morrisgreenberg

Well-Known Member
yes root rot can obliterate your plants in 48hrs, and is very demoalizing as your finding out now, my first time with it i got ir from being lazy and letting water temps rise in a cloner, the second time i had it i too used a fencepost system and left open a couple of plant sites, it didnt make sense in diy aero because the water is super oxygenated, but in that instance i truly beileve it was exposure to light, this took like 4 days to happen and it started looking like an iron deficiency, top part and new growth all looked paper white and really thin, then the droop. the thing about the bleach is there a a member on this forum who uses bleach instead of enzymes or h202 to keep the water clean and he know his stuff. now you noticed gel on the roots, is it snot like transparent gel? root rot is generally brown and slimey and the water smells like sewage, you could be having an algea problem, temps and aeration will not allow root rot to grow, but with some light is all it takes for some algea. algea on the roots will have similar symptoms on your plant like rot, by this i mean the algea on your roots is suffocating the plant and competing for minerals, plants show all kiinds of deficienicies and look underwatered and not fatal in the way root rot is by destroying your roots, but by pure suffocation. at some point your getting this issue and if it happens 2 days after transplanting it may be originationg in your clone/veg system. if you can pull the small plants out and spray the roots with a water/peroxide solution and rinse asmuch slime off and run hygrozyme or peroxide in the res you should be ok. i was told by Fatman7574 that salt nutes like GH shouldnt be used with hygrozyme and i think hes dead on, when i ran chem nutes with h'zyme it made my rez smell like a wet dog. i have plenty of experience with brown root rot, none with clear/white slime so i am only making the assumption that it is algea and i only know this from reading other peoples threads, perhaps you should send a PM to fatman i think he would be more than willing to help
 

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
its not root rot.... i just covered this in another thread.

brown algae.. its almost impossible to irradicate.
however there are ways around it. personally, i prefer an inline UV filter... most effective in my opinion @ preventative measures against a host of organisms that cause root rot-like symptons.
root rot is caused by fungus. your not going to have fungus in a hydro system unless your doing something really really really wrong.

most people attribute brown slime algae as root rot, and most people are wrong.

oh yeah.. the OP started the other thread as well... :p to you sir, lol

ps.. let me guess-

you used hygrozyme in your hydro after getting this advice from another grower that hasnt learned his lesson yet
 

MeJuana

Well-Known Member
its not root rot.... i just covered this in another thread.

brown algae.. its almost impossible to irradicate.
however there are ways around it. personally, i prefer an inline UV filter... most effective in my opinion @ preventative measures against a host of organisms that cause root rot-like symptons.
root rot is caused by fungus. your not going to have fungus in a hydro system unless your doing something really really really wrong.

most people attribute brown slime algae as root rot, and most people are wrong.

oh yeah.. the OP started the other thread as well... :p to you sir, lol

ps.. let me guess-

you used hygrozyme in your hydro after getting this advice from another grower that hasnt learned his lesson yet
Where's this other thread I want to see it because your post left me with questions I wasn't aware I had.
 
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