Fatman I need your assistance

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zero1776

Active Member
After starting treatment with H2O2 I did some research on the forum and found your bleach method for Pyth.I feel This method would be better than H2O2 . You gave me some advice on my next system build that I really appreciate. I was wondering in my current Aero Flo 60 would you treat the Pyth problem with bleach in deep water or continue to run empty in the runners and on the timer?:lol:I know its a bad system prone to these type of problems but I have no choice but to grow in this until I complete the next system I think I will be going in 10in wide 20 in deep runners on the next one.Thanx for all your assistance. Forgot I use water max By Bobs Brew don't know if this would react with bleach think its at bobsbrew.net,Thanx again
 
fatman7574

fatman7574

New Member
zero1776 said:
After starting treatment with H2O2 I did some research on the forum and found your bleach method for Pyth.I feel This method would be better than H2O2 . You gave me some advice on my next system build that I really appreciate. I was wondering in my current Aero Flo 60 would you treat the Pyth problem with bleach in deep water or continue to run empty in the runners and on the timer?:lol:I know its a bad system prone to these type of problems but I have no choice but to grow in this until I complete the next system I think I will be going in 10in wide 20 in deep runners on the next one.Thanx for all your assistance. Forgot I use water max By Bobs Brew don't know if this would react with bleach think its at bobsbrew.net,Thanx again
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Chlorox like H2O2 can be used with any chemical fertilizers as they are not dependent on and bacteria in the reservoir etc. You can't use either with organic fertilizers and should not use chlorox or H2O2 with organic supplements. Just add the chlorox as indicated. You want an initial dose asspelled out in the other thread at 2.5 ppm initally as some will be used to oxidice any present rot. with out a meter to test for residual chlorine I would just start with the 2.5 ppm and then 0.5 ppm every two days after that until the problem a has cleared up. You have to judge how much air exchange in your resrvoir to decide if dosing every tow days is too often. An open container with an airstone or pump can have more chlorine every 12 hours if only addinf 0.5 ppm hours. AM aero, SOG or NTF with a closed reservior every 24 to 36 hours. I wouldd say 48 hours with an closed type DWC or such like growing system. A bubbleponic at every 16 to 4 hours. Whether you wish to continue beyond that point is up to you. I use chlorine continously up to 1 week before harves but I can test to make sure of my residual level. I try to keep it at or near 0.5 ppm onstantly.ta lesat 2 ppm, then redudece to 0.5 ppm. supplements.

Most tap water has between 0.7 and 2.0 ppm. Mine has 0.8 ppm normally. Federal law allows Chlorine levels at up to 4 ppm as the water leaves the treatment plant. Most treatment plants treat with 2.5 ppm and that allows for some to kll baceria and part to be taken up informing coumpounds with orgainics in the water and still alows for the minmum allowale levels of 0.5 ppm residual levels. So or ther than the initial killing/cleansing dose your residual levels will be maninatined at levels below average tap water levels. There are thousands of people growing pot with fresh tap awter without chlorine toxicity.
 
Z

zero1776

Active Member
fatman7574 said:
Chlorox like H2O2 can be used with any chemical fertilizers as they are not dependent on and bacteria in the reservoir etc. You can't use either with organic fertilizers and should not use chlorox or H2O2 with organic supplements. Just add the chlorox as indicated. You want an initial dose asspelled out in the other thread at 2.5 ppm initally as some will be used to oxidice any present rot. with out a meter to test for residual chlorine I would just start with the 2.5 ppm and then 0.5 ppm every two days after that until the problem a has cleared up. You have to judge how much air exchange in your resrvoir to decide if dosing every tow days is too often. An open container with an airstone or pump can have more chlorine every 12 hours if only addinf 0.5 ppm hours. AM aero, SOG or NTF with a closed reservior every 24 to 36 hours. I wouldd say 48 hours with an closed type DWC or such like growing system. A bubbleponic at every 16 to 4 hours. Whether you wish to continue beyond that point is up to you. I use chlorine continously up to 1 week before harves but I can test to make sure of my residual level. I try to keep it at or near 0.5 ppm onstantly.ta lesat 2 ppm, then redudece to 0.5 ppm. supplements.

Most tap water has between 0.7 and 2.0 ppm. Mine has 0.8 ppm normally. Federal law allows Chlorine levels at up to 4 ppm as the water leaves the treatment plant. Most treatment plants treat with 2.5 ppm and that allows for some to kll baceria and part to be taken up informing coumpounds with orgainics in the water and still alows for the minmum allowale levels of 0.5 ppm residual levels. So or ther than the initial killing/cleansing dose your residual levels will be maninatined at levels below average tap water levels. There are thousands of people growing pot with fresh tap awter without chlorine toxicity.
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I have started the use of the Chlorine to your recommended levels in my system to help with the Pyth. My system is a Aero Flo I can run the water in the tubes empty or full . I run empty normally should I continue to run this way or run deep until problem looks better.I have chlorine test strips to monitor the chlorine in the Res.Thanx again
 
Z

zero1776

Active Member
zero1776 said:
I have started the use of the Chlorine to your recommended levels in my system to help with the Pyth. My system is a Aero Flo I can run the water in the tubes empty or full . I run empty normally should I continue to run this way or run deep until problem looks better.I have chlorine test strips to monitor the chlorine in the Res.Thanx again
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Have started treatment running empty in the runners hope this is OK
 
D

doctorwsj

Member
Fatman, can you tell me why it would seem no matter how much chroine I add I can not abtain a residual. I bought the test strips 1-10 ppm.

My system is extreemly clean with exception of the spoars.

I added as much as 400ml to 50 gallons and never got a reading. That was with no nutes and no plants.

Yet I can take a 55 gallon garbage can I use a tank and add 30ml and see 2ppm for days??
 
NLXSK1

NLXSK1

Well-Known Member
doctorwsj said:
Fatman, can you tell me why it would seem no matter how much chroine I add I can not abtain a residual. I bought the test strips 1-10 ppm.

My system is extreemly clean with exception of the spoars.

I added as much as 400ml to 50 gallons and never got a reading. That was with no nutes and no plants.

Yet I can take a 55 gallon garbage can I use a tank and add 30ml and see 2ppm for days??
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Fatman is on vacation, possibly permanently. However, I was talking with him about this in another thread and I believe I know the reason why.

If you are using pool test strips they are designed to test water with ph in the 6.8-8.0 range approximately. There are two forms of chlorine in the water (I am not going to get technical here). At that PH range there is approximately 50% of each availible in the water. When you drop the PH to 5.8 it converts the percentage of the different chlorines to 90% / 10%. I believe that your test kit (like mine) tests the wrong type of chlorine and thus will not be able to get a reading at the lower PH.

I dont know of a solution to the problem. Do you want to see if I am right? Take a test sample of your water and carefully raise the PH to 7.6 - optimal pool water PH. Then do the chlorine test again. If you have residual levels of chlorine then it may be the PH that is messing up the test. ( I am not positive this test would work it is just something to try).
 
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