Extreme Flowering Under Pair of Timber 48SAMS

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Morning, brother! I would say 5000-6000°k has the highest growth rates in terms of green mass and it forces the branches to grow faster. You'll get really tight nodes spacings and plants are becoming wider cuz the branches grow almost horizontally at first.(70-80° to the main stem). Leaves stay a little smaller but you'll get more of them and more nodes in the same time.
Basically, it takes more blue-cyan wavelengths (430-495nm) to turn 3000°K into 5000°K. But I have not tried it yet so you would have to try how much it takes. Maybe 10-20w in addition to any E96 puk.(at 200w).
Ok @Randomblame, what do you think about using these for supplemental veg blue?

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/all/products/qb11-quantum-board

What dimmable driver would you recommend individually and in pairs?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Its only royal blue but it would be enough. If you use the Arcadias from the beginning to make them used to UVB they get the other wavelength from these bulbs.
The smallest dimmable HLG-driver is the HLG-40H and you could use the -36B version to power a pair of them in parallel. Max current of this driver is ~1,12A so each strip would run with ~550mA and you should get at least 37w(33x 1,12A). But max. current of 1 strip is 1,4A and a heatsink is needed above 1050mA. So theoreticly you can also use 1 Strip per HLG-40H-36B. The driver would work in CC mode and you can use a 100k poti for dimming.

With so much different light sources it would make sense to use a siutable LED(reef)-controller. The bluefish controller from rapidled(199$) for instance is able to dimm a lot Meanwells HLG drivers out of the box via 10v PWM. You could create different spectra and safe the settings/profiles for later use. This way you could easily switch from a veg to a bloom spectrum without the need to tune the spectrum again and again. You could add run rise/sun set simulation if you want, control the far-red initiator, the red-deep/far-red bars and its also possible to control your enviroment if you add a temp/humidity sensor and use 5v relays to switch according devices on and off.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
The 5 girls are still looking good and get currently 20mins UVB per day(5mins at the beginning, 15mins before lights off). From tomorrow the'll get 30mins, 15+15)
Distance is 30-34", ~24-26°C/55-60% RH. Need to start LST today mainly because of the BlueDream and the GreenPoisonx BlueDream cross needs already a small socket.
Hopefully its not the same stretchy BD pheno as last time..
I'm still undecided if I should use a trellis net or not but its probably the easiest way to keep them under control. With these 30-34" the light is already hanging 4" under the ceiling and I would need to remove the pulleys to get another 2", lol. I think I'll add the trellis around BW2 or 3.

Front left is the SSH, back left is an Amnesia x BD cross, the GPx BD is in the middle, front right is the BlueDream and back right the ColumbianGold..
f.l SSH, b.l AxBD, f.r BD, b.r CG, & GPxBC in the center.png
 

Attachments

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
The 5 girls are still looking good and get currently 20mins UVB per day(5mins at the beginning, 15mins before lights off). From tomorrow the'll get 30mins, 15+15)
Distance is 30-34", ~24-26°C/55-60% RH. Need to start LST today mainly because of the BlueDream and the GreenPoisonx BlueDream cross needs already a small socket.
Hopefully its not the same stretchy BD pheno as last time..
I'm still undecided if I should use a trellis net or not but its probably the easiest way to keep them under control. With these 30-34" the light is already hanging 4" under the ceiling and I would need to remove the pulleys to get another 2", lol. I think I'll add the trellis around BW2 or 3.

Front left is the SSH, back left is an Amnesia x BD cross, the GPx BD is in the middle, front right is the BlueDream and back right the ColumbianGold..
View attachment 4234036
Beautiful manifolds RB, nice big pipes already!

Leaves look great!

So three questions: what’s a socket? What is BW2 or 3 - Bloom Week 2 or 3? What are the pieces of wood for?
 
Last edited:

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Its only royal blue but it would be enough. If you use the Arcadias from the beginning to make them used to UVB they get the other wavelength from these bulbs.
The smallest dimmable HLG-driver is the HLG-40H and you could use the -36B version to power a pair of them in parallel. Max current of this driver is ~1,12A so each strip would run with ~550mA and you should get at least 37w(33x 1,12A). But max. current of 1 strip is 1,4A and a heatsink is needed above 1050mA. So theoreticly you can also use 1 Strip per HLG-40H-36B. The driver would work in CC mode and you can use a 100k poti for dimming.

With so much different light sources it would make sense to use a siutable LED(reef)-controller. The bluefish controller from rapidled(199$) for instance is able to dimm a lot Meanwells HLG drivers out of the box via 10v PWM. You could create different spectra and safe the settings/profiles for later use. This way you could easily switch from a veg to a bloom spectrum without the need to tune the spectrum again and again. You could add run rise/sun set simulation if you want, control the far-red initiator, the red-deep/far-red bars and its also possible to control your enviroment if you add a temp/humidity sensor and use 5v relays to switch according devices on and off.
Thanks for the info, i’ve ordered the drivers, i’ll check out the controller.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Beautiful manifolds RB, nice big pipes already!

Leaves look great!

So three questions: what’s a socket? What is BW2 or 3? What are the pieces of wood for?
Yeah, easy peasy...
With socket I mean a little 4" podium to keep the tops at the same height, BW means BloomWeek and the wood pieces are because of the underpressure. I have black/white foils as kind of lightproof plastic curtains as "2nd door" to prevent the light from shining into the room when I open the door and they slightly bulge inward. With the wood pieces I can push them back a bit.
As always, pics say more then words...
I've build it from two old 2 door cabinets and it look slightly skewed, lol.... but its mine!
2 3ft² areas, a 16" on top of a 46" high veg area and a 9sft² area, 28x 30" and 66" high. Exaust fan has its own insulated chamber and at 1m distance you can measure only 38db(smartphone app).
my little stealthbox.png
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Yeah, easy peasy...
With socket I mean a little 4" podium to keep the tops at the same height, BW means BloomWeek and the wood pieces are because of the underpressure. I have black/white foils as kind of lightproof plastic curtains as "2nd door" to prevent the light from shining into the room when I open the door and they slightly bulge inward. With the wood pieces I can push them back a bit.
As always, pics say more then words...
I've build it from two old 2 door cabinets and it look slightly skewed, lol.... but its mine!
2 3ft² areas, a 16" on top of a 46" high veg area and a 9sft² area, 28x 30" and 66" high. Exaust fan has its own insulated chamber and at 1m distance you can measure only 38db(smartphone app).
View attachment 4234073
Nice unobtrusive setup!

Socket=pedestal, ok got it. This grow i used this approach for first time. I like it better than individual lights at diff heights.

Now i want to refine it with some sort of jackable setup on wheels. Got any ideas?
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Its a piece stucco reflector sheet. I've reused my old adjust-a-wing reflector (avanger large or so) to make the UVB reflectors. Insprired from the original super spreader coming with the adjust-a-wing I've used just a 20mm wide piece of the sheet, bent to 90° and cut it to length so I can "hang" it infront of the bulbs(magnets hot glued).
This way the light directly under the bulb gets reflected back into the reflector and is distributed more evenly with reduced center hotspot.
The material has to have a certain rigidity so alu foil is probably not thick enough. But 1mm is already rigid enough and it has to be metal. You can simply order an alu L-channel, 10x 10mm or if available 8x 8mm and cut it in the needed length(2 or 4ft)..
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, wheels like this below could be used to keep the rollable pedestals as flat as possible.
6pcs a tenner on e3ay.. Pretty sure they can hold enough weigh and more flat design would be impossible.
But to adjust the height you would need additional podests that fits. I'm using 4 and 6" styrofoam blocks as "sockets" if I need them. They weigh nothing and are rigid enough to hold even a 10gal fabric pot.
But if you do not need them they just stupid lay around look ugly and taking space, really annoying.
I already thought on something like a hairdresser chair pump to pump the plant higher or let it back down but something like that is not flat enough. A ballon between two wooden boards would work but would need guides between the two boards to keep the upper board always in horizonal shape.
As a grower you sometimes feel like Daniel Duck, lol! Constantly you build something new that does not exist yet.
 

Attachments

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Its a piece stucco reflector sheet. I've reused my old adjust-a-wing reflector (avanger large or so) to make the UVB reflectors. Insprired from the original super spreader coming with the adjust-a-wing I've used just a 20mm wide piece of the sheet, bent to 90° and cut it to length so I can "hang" it infront of the bulbs(magnets hot glued).
This way the light directly under the bulb gets reflected back into the reflector and is distributed more evenly with reduced center hotspot.
The material has to have a certain rigidity so alu foil is probably not thick enough. But 1mm is already rigid enough and it has to be metal. You can simply order an alu L-channel, 10x 10mm or if available 8x 8mm and cut it in the needed length(2 or 4ft)..
Thanks

This should do it:

4D475FB8-5A46-4E89-BC21-AE2C5D0D3A98.jpeg
About 11mm wide, i could cut/grind to 8, maybe find 5-6mm version.

What about surface? Should i spray paint it with something, wrap in foil, something else?
 
Last edited:

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Yeah, wheels like this below could be used to keep the rollable pedestals as flat as possible.
6pcs a tenner on e3ay.. Pretty sure they can hold enough weigh and more flat design would be impossible.
But to adjust the height you would need additional podests that fits. I'm using 4 and 6" styrofoam blocks as "sockets" if I need them. They weigh nothing and are rigid enough to hold even a 10gal fabric pot.
But if you do not need them they just stupid lay around look ugly and taking space, really annoying.
I already thought on something like a hairdresser chair pump to pump the plant higher or let it back down but something like that is not flat enough. A ballon between two wooden boards would work but would need guides between the two boards to keep the upper board always in horizonal shape.
As a grower you sometimes feel like Daniel Duck, lol! Constantly you build something new that does not exist yet.
I’m a wheels expert:
363B1D06-96EE-43FA-ABD2-DA670C9F75CC.jpeg

1F9BB77C-7FDF-4BA8-9AA2-6292AA57098F.jpeg

Your suggestion is the absolute best (low, strong, stainless steel, turns any direction w minimum parts), i got the idea from watching them load airline cargo.

For jackable pedestal i have lots of ideas (boat seat stand, beauty parlor chair, office chair screw-type height adjuster, car tire jack, hydraulic jack, etc.) but i like your simple stryrofoam block idea...cheaper and easier to cut than plastic buckets...

I hate building this shit, but necessity is the mother of invention...
 
Last edited:

KasparGrower

Well-Known Member
The 5 girls are still looking good and get currently 20mins UVB per day(5mins at the beginning, 15mins before lights off). From tomorrow the'll get 30mins, 15+15)
Distance is 30-34", ~24-26°C/55-60% RH. Need to start LST today mainly because of the BlueDream and the GreenPoisonx BlueDream cross needs already a small socket.
Hopefully its not the same stretchy BD pheno as last time..
I'm still undecided if I should use a trellis net or not but its probably the easiest way to keep them under control. With these 30-34" the light is already hanging 4" under the ceiling and I would need to remove the pulleys to get another 2", lol. I think I'll add the trellis around BW2 or 3.

Front left is the SSH, back left is an Amnesia x BD cross, the GPx BD is in the middle, front right is the BlueDream and back right the ColumbianGold..
View attachment 4234036
They look fabulous!!
30to34" from canopy is because you are running Arcadia/Agromax bulbs right?
Do you think the high °K in UV bulbs used since early days in veg,has a significant effect on internodal spacings and overall growth?
 

KasparGrower

Well-Known Member
Day 84: Gonna be a busy weekend. Co2 ran out again, got another cylinder, but don’t think it will do much at this point, so finished with that.

Front “diesel” ~23”:
View attachment 4233593

Back “diesel” ~34”:
View attachment 4233592

The big haze girl >4’:
View attachment 4233594

Ppfd ~ 1050, controlled variables in range.


View attachment 4233596
What a garden bro!
Do you have the room sealed? Because I was thinking about CO2 supplementation but I have extraction and intake going day and night,but maybe being in a small space now (80x80cm) I can benefi from the ease of saturation.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
What a garden bro!
Do you have the room sealed? Because I was thinking about CO2 supplementation but I have extraction and intake going day and night,but maybe being in a small space now (80x80cm) I can benefi from the ease of saturation.
Thanks

Not sealed, been through about 250 lbs (maintaining 1500 ppm during lightson) for 84 days of flowering in 4x4 in 20x30’ room with a/c and filtered fan vent to outside; tent has 2 vents open: radiator heater outside one, dehumid outside other. Wasteful, yes; but looks like it worked.
 

KasparGrower

Well-Known Member
Thanks

Not sealed, been through about 250 lbs (maintaining 1500 ppm during lightson) for 84 days of flowering in 4x4 in 20x30’ room with a/c and filtered fan vent to outside; tent has 2 vents open: radiator heater outside one, dehumid outside other. Wasteful, yes; but looks like it worked.
Got you!
Do you think I will have enough fresh air if I only extract out from the tent outside and I take the intake air from the room the tent actually is based? Obviously I will open the door more then once a day but the room the tent is based is mainly closed for keeping it as stealthy and hidden as possible.
 
Last edited:
Top