experienced help needed venting room
- Thread starter joker0020
- Start date
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I set mine on a thermostat switch ($75 plugs into wall with day and night settings). I'm guessing you are using LEDs, from your picture. I have both the intake and exhaust on the therm switch. Unless you're in a real hot climate, this should keep temps stable. The only issue I have is humidity. The room doesn't heat up much with leds but the humidity climbs after watering. So, on watering days I sometimes have to set the therm switch to a lower temp to evacuate the moisture. So far no need for a dehumidifier. A little more info on you're grow might get you more replies.
contraptionated
New Member
What are the dimensions of the room? What is the lamp wattage? Is there adequate insulation between the two rooms? Are you venting into the air space of the attic (infrared detectable) or through the air space of the attic and out the roof vent by means of insulated duct (flex or rigid wouldn't matter). Is the incoming air too cold that it wouldn't permit constant exhaust? Why the intake fan? Is it because you have no choice but to pull the incoming fresh air through a long run of ducting( the only true justification for an intake fan but that's usually never the case)?Do your plants like back and forth temp changes every fifteen minutes or so ? How's that ozone generator going to work better than a carbon filter ? A lot of questions but I need for you to answer them honestly. The flaws are many and I would like for you to correct them so your neighbors don't smell what's cookin' . Cycling an exhaust fan on and off is just too much environment change. Plants like a more constant atmosphere so they can spend more time growing and less time adapting. Ditch the intake fan and you will decrease noise, electric usage and eliminate the high probability (especially in your case) of positive air pressure which will defeat your efforts to eliminate odors. Ozone is not useful unless there is sufficient contact time and your set up doesn't give that. Matter of fact, I've never heard any success stories when it comes to 110% odor elimination with ozone. Just use a carbon filter that is rated for a much higher output than what you're exhaust fan is actually moving ( that number is definitely not the same as the cfm rating of the exhaust fan).
joker0020
Member
great, the room is 3 1/2 ft x 4, the veg closet 3 1/2 by 2, LED lighting the exhaust goes into the attic and the ozone gen is just an idea i can ditch and live in a hot climate.
so Ive search all over the forums and havent found an answer as to how to properly vent a room, so what you are saying is to have the exhust fan on 24h
and create negative pressure instead of positive, see my dilemma was this, if im using ac and co2 bags, isnt negative pressure just wasting it?
justugh
Well-Known Member
sir ditch the co2 bags .................the only effective way to controll co2 is a burner unit or a co2 tank the rest is a short time only and never completely right
how to vent a room ......figure out the volume of the room .........divide it by 5 u need to move that much minal mine is 104 i go to 100 i need my fans blowing at a rate of 20cfm the whole tents air is cycled once every 5 mins
i am not sure what your pic is saying .........carbon scubber is needed for flower room only when u use it i go on the rulle that u lose 1/2 of the cfm do to the sucking action needed ...............ozone gens are good but they are little bit of a tip off i am finding out (it smells like a hosptial they are doing something odd lets get a warrent) ...now vent from the acttc is great how tall is your place .........the rule is every 20 feet u go up the wind increases by 10 mph so if it is 6 on the ground 20 feet higher it is 16mph
posstive pressure is fine if u have a sealed room....negtive pressure is iffy it pulls in molds bugs all that stuff atleast with postive the room is getting it tho a filter/bug screen and if there are any leaks they can not get in since it is blowing them out
last choice for order controll where ever the exhust is u can do air ploshing.....they have carbon filters with built in fans that just hang suck and blow in a open room to clear smells and smoke out
how to vent a room ......figure out the volume of the room .........divide it by 5 u need to move that much minal mine is 104 i go to 100 i need my fans blowing at a rate of 20cfm the whole tents air is cycled once every 5 mins
i am not sure what your pic is saying .........carbon scubber is needed for flower room only when u use it i go on the rulle that u lose 1/2 of the cfm do to the sucking action needed ...............ozone gens are good but they are little bit of a tip off i am finding out (it smells like a hosptial they are doing something odd lets get a warrent) ...now vent from the acttc is great how tall is your place .........the rule is every 20 feet u go up the wind increases by 10 mph so if it is 6 on the ground 20 feet higher it is 16mph
posstive pressure is fine if u have a sealed room....negtive pressure is iffy it pulls in molds bugs all that stuff atleast with postive the room is getting it tho a filter/bug screen and if there are any leaks they can not get in since it is blowing them out
last choice for order controll where ever the exhust is u can do air ploshing.....they have carbon filters with built in fans that just hang suck and blow in a open room to clear smells and smoke out
bimple
Active Member
the co2 bags work fine, just not as effectively as tank or burner. Sugar and yeast in a pop-bottle works fine, also. As long as you are enriching the air as much as you can with co2 (to a safe degree haha) then you will be OK. As far as venting goes - get a thermostatically controlled plug so it shuts off your vent fan - leaving it on 24/7 will burn it out quickly, and is unnecessary
joker0020
Member
Actually co2 bags have work for me as long as i keep em right next to the plant, at 20 bucks each it is better than nothing, thanks for the info guys with this this some more research ive made up my mind, the exhaust fan will be on during the hot hours of the day(1-6pm) and come on and off as needed the rest of the time, ive yet to figure out how often this is
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Unless you are planning on sitting there all day with a thermometer, it won't work. My thermostat switch plugs into the wall at the highest outlet, for the warmest readings. I have a power strip plugged into that, and 2 fans plugged into the strip. I also like the co2 bags. I hang mine behind the fans that blow through the canopy. So even if the exhaust fan is sucking it out, it has already blown through the canopy.
nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
Almost forgot the picture. Must be time to smoke again.
contraptionated
New Member
With positive pressure you leak odors from any openings and thereby attract bugs all the more. Positive pressure would not obstruct bugs from entering. Even a sealed room will have tiny openings for bugs to find their way and the scent being expelled through those openings (due to positive pressure) will lead the bugs to such entrance points.
joker0020
Member
i understand your argument how about still having an intake fan and a exhaust fan but with the exhaust having a lower cfm than the intake?
contraptionated
New Member
Allow me to explain this. Even though a 10" fan is rated 800 cfm it will not put out 800 cfm unless you enlarge the duct to (just off the top of my head I could be wrong by an inch or two) about 14". So if you have the lower cfm fan pushing air in and the higher cfm fan pulling air out , it will not always create negative pressure because more often than not there are less accessories connected to the influent side of the intake fan (meaning it will perform very close to or exactly at the listed cfm rating) than the effluent side of the exhaust fan (a 10" can fan will only put out about 350 cfm when adding the static pressure of a CanFilter 150 and about 15-20 feet of 10" duct with a silencer. That's less than the output of a Can Fan 6" with no head loss when no duct or filter is attached in a typical intake scenario).
The only reason why I know this is because I metered the aforementioned example 3x over with 3 redundant 10" trunks with all those accessories I mentioned. But let me tell ya, its definitely not a bad thing to make a fan perform at less than rated output for the sake of extending the life of a 130 pound carbon filter. Who wants to change those out every 18 months!