Yes, stating that "the sub-panel is like another device box" is a good way of phrasing it. I didn't elaborate on the branch circuit wiring originating from the sub-panel because I wanted to keep my post simple and sweet ( I was accused of being verbose in a previous post). Whether NEC allows it or not, I see no problem in having the grounding bar for the equipment grounding conductors isolated from the sub-panel enclosure. You are still effectively providing a low impedance pathway for the short circuit fault current to travel on from the device box and equipment to the main circuit breaker panel. If you elect this method then another low impedance pathway (such as a metallic conduit or equipment grounding wire) must be provided to connect the sub-panel enclosure to the main circuit breaker panel. P.S. Don't expect to see an insulated grounding bar for the equipment grounding conductors come packaged with most sub-panels.
Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
contraptionated
New Member
I agree and I concur.
Steelheader3430
Well-Known Member
I recently acquired a 1000 watt 240 volt metal halide setup. I was wondering if I can plug it into a 120 volt outlet or if it needs to be in a 220. I have a 220 volt outlet luckily. There is minimal info on the system just what I posted up top. Its about 15 years old probably. Will that affect its efficiency, are the newer ones more energy efficient? Thank you, Yes I am totally new to this.
silasraven
Well-Known Member
i got a blizzard fan and the motor keeps over heating, it was stored in a dusty area, is the dust the cause or is there something i can do to get this thing running again, it will run but then stop and run again?
wyteboi
Well-Known Member
dust can, but never does hurt them motors. the dust on the blades will throw it off balance an ruin it eventually. i dont know of any tricks to get your motor runnin proper. clean the blades real good .... blow the motor out the best you can and if that dont help the motor is probably about done.
if the fan is on a timer or a relay , you could eliminate those and just try to run it constant on high only.
hope everyone is doin well ! looks like were still in good hands with this thread. got some code readers here
soil
riak hommi
New Member
Bricktown,
I noticed that you posted up for all to ask anything regarding electrical questions. I cannibalized a two foot fluorescent hood because it was damaged, basically I pulled all the electric parts and ditched the metal bit. I was planning on fastening the ballast to the top rails in my tent and zip tie each of the four sockets to the four upright tent poles for supplemental lighting. Where your knowledge comes into play is when I unscrewed everything from the fixture I also detached two green (neutral?) wires from the fixture that are attached to the power cord. I have not plugged the ballast into anything to figure out if it'd work without those wires attached because I don't feel like zapping myself which I've done before installing track lighting/welding. What I wanted to know is if I could attach those two green contacts to the metal pole of the tent string those lights in the tent?
I noticed that you posted up for all to ask anything regarding electrical questions. I cannibalized a two foot fluorescent hood because it was damaged, basically I pulled all the electric parts and ditched the metal bit. I was planning on fastening the ballast to the top rails in my tent and zip tie each of the four sockets to the four upright tent poles for supplemental lighting. Where your knowledge comes into play is when I unscrewed everything from the fixture I also detached two green (neutral?) wires from the fixture that are attached to the power cord. I have not plugged the ballast into anything to figure out if it'd work without those wires attached because I don't feel like zapping myself which I've done before installing track lighting/welding. What I wanted to know is if I could attach those two green contacts to the metal pole of the tent string those lights in the tent?
Julius Caesar
Active Member
Are there any issue using a 600w dimmable ballast set at other wattages with a 600w HPS? My ballast has a 300W, 450W, 600W, and 660W settings. I can see the 660W shortening the life of the bulb, but will running it at 300W or 450W cause any resistive heat or other issues in the ballast or bulb? Thanks
its a hobby honey !
Member
so....
i have a quick question! i have been building a 60 amp panel for my flower room , and would like to know what off the shelf relays are used when it comes to switching 10 or 12 1000w sodium's ? this is a super tight budget being my first grow I feel like All Bundy handing out green right left and center .
Which is fine as i know i will be reaping what is sown LOL
I was thinking two 30amp relays, timer controlled each with 6 X 240v outlets on each one . maybe twin timers to stagger the start times slightly .I have new Mag ballasts i will be using
i will post some picks of the work so far tonight .
i have a quick question! i have been building a 60 amp panel for my flower room , and would like to know what off the shelf relays are used when it comes to switching 10 or 12 1000w sodium's ? this is a super tight budget being my first grow I feel like All Bundy handing out green right left and center .
Which is fine as i know i will be reaping what is sown LOL
I was thinking two 30amp relays, timer controlled each with 6 X 240v outlets on each one . maybe twin timers to stagger the start times slightly .I have new Mag ballasts i will be using
i will post some picks of the work so far tonight .
I think you are nuts if you think you can power ten to twelve 1000 watts HPS lights from a 60 amps panel, although I like your idea of using two 30 amps relays with each relay having its own separate timer staggering the start-up time of each relay. Try to limit the number of 1000 watts ballasts to just four per relay until you have figured out how to cool 8000 watts of heat produce from the lights. I would think you should be able to power the inline fans to air cool the room and lights (if you are using air cooled light hoods or tubes) with the remaining power available in the 60 amps panel, but I think you would be nuts if you think you can power a 120 volts air conditioner from that same 60 amps panel. I'm open for any criticism if anyone want to give their opinion on this subject matter. [h=1][/h]
beterthanjeff
Well-Known Member
not sure the amp to watt formula so you may wanna check it out but it sounds like you have way too much goin on how big is your room?
Sire Killem All
Well-Known Member
will this wire work and be ok with this ballast. it is a old hand me down wall hanging type.
Attachments
The amperage of the ballast is usually stated on the ballast. In absent of that data, the rule of thumb is: one amp per 100 watts @ 120 volts, or .5 amp per 100 watts @ 240 volts. Thus for every 1000 watts ballast operating on 240 volts it would be 5 amps per ballast. Now many of you may think he is fine and dandy to run up to ten 1000 watts ballasts on a 60 amp panel, but I have no idea (nor the experience) as to how sensitive the circuit breaker feeding that many ballasts is to the in-rush current during the first second (which is the length of time for the current to complete 60 full cycles). Perhaps someone with a nickname of "Power Strip Charlie", who motto is "no grow room is complete without a power strip" and have tripped more breakers in a year than what most of us have trip in a lifetime, can give us his expertise. I would think one would want to start out with a plan they believe might have a chance to reliably work.
its a hobby honey !
Member
its a hobby honey !
Member
so about half way through still making my mind up on the switch's .but will keep them in groups of four starting with 8K .
This will work like this- two lights circuits
- 4 fans circuits, two switched to keep two rows of hoods cool , so staggered start with the lights
and then shut off 20 mins after the light cycle .
then upper and lower fan circuits running 24/7
I already have the 120 v stuff covered as well as the veg box power so really all i need to get out of this circuit is 8 lights .
So correct me if i am wrong but at 5 amps a light makes 40 amps and with staggered start should be good to break out the sunblock and Oakley,s
This will work like this- two lights circuits
- 4 fans circuits, two switched to keep two rows of hoods cool , so staggered start with the lights
and then shut off 20 mins after the light cycle .
then upper and lower fan circuits running 24/7
I already have the 120 v stuff covered as well as the veg box power so really all i need to get out of this circuit is 8 lights .
So correct me if i am wrong but at 5 amps a light makes 40 amps and with staggered start should be good to break out the sunblock and Oakley,s
wheels619
Well-Known Member
your actually closer to about 5.5 amps each depending on manufacturer and parts. could be a tad more with those magnetic ballasts. to run 8 lights you should need about 44 amps of 220. so a 50 amp 220 plug isnt enough with the safety factor. go bigger good luck. id pull in 60 amps to be safe just to cover that many 1000watt lights. not including ac, dehumidifier or anything else you will add. looks good tho dude. good luck. happy growing.
Hot Tubs and Spas most commonly have a 5500 watts 240 volts water heater, controlled by a contactor (high power relay) rated at 40 or 50 amps that would be perfect for switching on your lights. Another style contactor with the expose contacts as seen in this link http://www.hydroponics.net/learn/gro...controller.asp would also work great for your needs. Shouldn't be a problem getting a Double Pole Single Throw (DPST) contactor for $20 or $25 on Ebay. Be careful that you select the contactor with a coil operating voltage that match your timer voltage. Most people like to use a 120 volts timer to switch the relay on and off, and thus would order a contactor with a 120 volts coil and make a trigger cord out of an ordinary 120 volts power cord to connect the timer to the contactor coil terminals. I prefer to have the inline fan (that will be cooling those lights running on that relay) to be powered by the same timer or trigger cord. Timers have been known to fail and I wouldn't want a situation of lights running without a fan cooling them. Glad to see you decided to use two contactors (relays) to divide the lights into two separate group of four.