Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

Im sorry if this is a repeat, 120+ pages is a lot to scan through. I have a T103 timer and I would like to run 240. I know that it has a 120v clock. The set up is like this... 240v coming from sub via 8-3 cable to timer 240v to 8 1000w hps and a constant 120v outlets for what have you. Thanks in advance.

Cheers.

mrjonesez said:

it uses the same watts no matter what. so for anyone listening, you can quit thinking your saving money on these things. it just burns off the excess energy in heat!! now after i said all of that i will retract that statement if anyone knows if these ballasts let you remove your 1000watt bulb and let you install a 400 in its place. then i would actually think about buying one of those overpriced ballasts.
If the bulb is rated for 1000 watts then it is going to pull that 1000 watts no matter what.

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Finally! Someone is speaking the truth. They have put a large hype behind digital ballasts and neglect to tell the consumer the real facts about the product such as it still uses the same amount of wattage wether it is dimmed or not. Also, they don't tell you that you have to use a bulb that is rated for a digital ballast as it runs at a much higher Hz.

Correct me if I'm wrong...I'm just happy to see some sense come to the world..

I own a lumatek 400w dial-a-watt (dimmable) ballast

n00bGrower said:

I have a question regarding re-wiring my Sunsystem 150w HPS (http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/itemdesc.asp?ic=HLCSHPS015SS) so I can put it into a DIY CoolTube (https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/121080-diy-cool-tube-how.html) I already have all the plans and materials for making the tube, but I need some assistance wiring the remote ballast. I opened the light last night and have a few questions...

1) The ignitor says that the ballast cannot be further than 2 feet from the lamp. OK, no big deal. I'd like to have it further away, but I guess I make 2 feet work.
2) I'm used to having 3 wires to deal with (B/W/G or Live/Neutral/Ground) and seeing the B/W coming from the fixture and then into the switch, only to come out and go into the ballast and ignitor, makes me nervous; never wired anything that needed a ballast or ignitor except my t5 tubes, but that was just (B/W/G).

I'm all sorts of confused about how to wire it. I'd like to omit the switch entirely and just have my timer regulate when to supply power. I'm at work and can't put up any pics of the unit and I can't seem to find a wiring diagram. I'm sure this is a simple project, but as with anything "It's only easy if you know EXACTLY what you're doing".

Thanks!

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a page or two ago i referenced a drawing someone had on the forum. follow that. i understand being intimidated by it, i too get intimidated and Ive wired alot of these types of lights. You should read up on how to de-energize a capacitor if your going to be working on these things. capacitors store energy even with the power off.

leftcoastnewf said:

Im sorry if this is a repeat, 120+ pages is a lot to scan through. I have a T103 timer and I would like to run 240. I know that it has a 120v clock. The set up is like this... 240v coming from sub via 8-3 cable to timer 240v to 8 1000w hps and a constant 120v outlets for what have you. Thanks in advance.

Cheers.

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you should get a 240 volt clock because a 120 volt would always have half your circuit hot and I never have liked that even though its legal to do it that way. Not sure what your asking in the rest. the proper way to do it is feed a subpanel with your #8 wire then reduce to 20 amps for the lighting, you cant just take 40amps to a lighting circuit.

Tried sending you a PM but its full. Thanks for any help you can give me regarding if I have enough power in my warehouse for my needs.

What is the best way to trace and test breaker to the outlet?

Is there a way to test the wiring so I can be sure it can sustain heavy loads before actually wiring up and running the system?

Thanks

will a 16amp, 240v, 4000w max, immersion heater timer run 2 x 600w hps units at a time and handle the surge, the set up is wired through a 32 amp mcb, then a 30ma rcd , and then a 13 amp fused plug to 16amp immersion timer then 2 x 600w hps set ups. seems to work ok during test but what will 18 hours do. all for except one of the ballast cables that connects to the lamp unit has a push in type connector (the type at the back of a large plasma tv or kettle ) that is getting hot, i will cut and reconnect that with a more secure and tight fitting.

MoJobud said:

Tried sending you a PM but its full. Thanks for any help you can give me regarding if I have enough power in my warehouse for my needs.

What is the best way to trace and test breaker to the outlet?

Is there a way to test the wiring so I can be sure it can sustain heavy loads before actually wiring up and running the system?

Thanks

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ya, the way i do it is i plug in something loud like a vac and shut breakers till the right one turns off then label it. then see what else is on the circuit that is now dead. all you need to do is count the watts that your loading the circuit. example, a 400watt light 50watt fan etc.... if you know your under the watts for a 20 amp breaker and it trips then you need a new breaker. it happens, they get weak over time.
fyi- a 20amp breaker at 120volts holds 2400 watts but your really only supposed to load it to 80% which is 1920watts

dont worry about the wire, it can take the load.

WeeGogs said:

will a 16amp, 240v, 4000w max, immersion heater timer run 2 x 600w hps units at a time and handle the surge, the set up is wired through a 32 amp mcb, then a 30ma rcd , and then a 13 amp fused plug to 16amp immersion timer then 2 x 600w hps set ups. seems to work ok during test but what will 18 hours do. all for except one of the ballast cables that connects to the lamp unit has a push in type connector (the type at the back of a large plasma tv or kettle ) that is getting hot, i will cut and reconnect that with a more secure and tight fitting.

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im having a little trouble following you but in regards to the timer, it will take it easy. Where those things get into trouble is with big motors which has a huge in rush. these hid's start out with just a little and get brighter and brighter eventually working up to 600watts.
the thing about electricity is the wire is going to get warm when under a heavy load. everyone should be using the beefy 12 or 14 gauge cords. its ok for a cord to be warm under these loads. there might be a problem if its hot or close to meltdown ( it will have the consistency of a noodle). then you know there is a loose connection or something.

thanks, mr. jonesez. you are a diamond. do you think i would be better lowering my consumer unit 32 amp mcb to 16 amp mcb, would that give me more protection if for example i had equipment failure that could cause a fire and maybe trip before a fire started, i put the rcd sockets in because the guy that shares my large grow area is a complete idiot when it comes to electricity (yes he has already had a 32amp shock and it was i that nearly had the heart attack) and i put the 3 x 2 gang rcd sockets in to protect him from a sunday morning fry up. so we have 6 rcd sockets running from 2 x 32 amp mcbs. 4 sockets from 1 and 2 from the other with no other power usage from them. safety is paramount we live in a high rise with 240v supply only.

mrjonesez said:

Ya, just use the right plugs. they will say 240volt on them. You can go from one to another and another and another if you want. its up to you not to overload it though.

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Ok, so I have a 30 amp 240v line running to an 8 light controller that I plan on having 7k of lights on, right now it's 5600 watts and running fine. I assume that 7k is gonna be too much. I ran 10 guage wire so can I just change out the breaker to a 50 amp and be ok?

Also, is running another 240v 30 amp line as simple as adding a breaker? I will obviously want an electrician doing the work but I am just wondering. This is a newer large home. I assume there'd be 100a service, does that sound right?

Ok, i tried to find it and there is 263 pages. Thought I would just ask and save myself 3 hours of searching. SORRY if this has been answered already.
So. i want to pre meter tap my power. I know I can use a clamp to tap in.
The question I have is, what to look out for. any tips or a better process then the one I know.
For example, Wouold it be ok to just carefully place a wire nut on the end of the 2 gauge feeds and some tape to pull them through the galvenized pipe to make the cut on the pipe to placet the clamps?
Where is the best place to get clamps?
And is the 8gauge wire with a 50amp breaker ok for 6 1000w ballasts?

WeeGogs said:

thanks, mr. jonesez. you are a diamond. do you think i would be better lowering my consumer unit 32 amp mcb to 16 amp mcb, would that give me more protection if for example i had equipment failure that could cause a fire and maybe trip before a fire started, i put the rcd sockets in because the guy that shares my large grow area is a complete idiot when it comes to electricity (yes he has already had a 32amp shock and it was i that nearly had the heart attack) and i put the 3 x 2 gang rcd sockets in to protect him from a sunday morning fry up. so we have 6 rcd sockets running from 2 x 32 amp mcbs. 4 sockets from 1 and 2 from the other with no other power usage from them. safety is paramount we live in a high rise with 240v supply only.

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sounds like your definitely on the right track. the very best protection you could have is a ground fault circuit interupter GFI breaker or outlet. those save lives and shut the circuit down if it senses current going someplace where it shouldnt, like your body.
it works by making sure the same amount of power is coming back on the common as going out on the hot. thats why its important to hook up grounds, so if current for instance leaked out on the metal body of a device it would then kill the circuit. it helps in fire prevention too because if two wires melted together it would shut off.

how many 1000 hps lamps can be sutained by a 20 amp breaker box...i wanna expand but dont want to oveload the breaker box
thanks

From what's been said so far I think about 4k could go on a 20 amp.

dannyboy602 said:

how many 1000 hps lamps can be sutained by a 20 amp breaker box...i wanna expand but dont want to oveload the breaker box
thanks

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From IAm5toned. so 1920W and a 1000W ballast uses 10% extra, unless it's a digital, or 1100W. So 1 if I get that right.

hey sparky this is true. i live in a tower block with 18 floors, i live on the 7th, my electric meter is situated in a cupboard that has its back to a bedroom and is 100 amp+ and 240v , the guy that fitted the single main fuse inadvertently left just enough room on the crimped seal wire to pull out the fuse that disconnects my meter, so i removed the fuse and that gave me access to a screw that removes a cover that conceals the neutral wire connection plate now i can see the the two connector plates, so i drilled straight through them both, (the disconnected from live side of course), right through the single main fuse box with a 5.5mm drillbit, i removed the main fuse box and slowly pulled it forward just enough for me to go through the 5.5mm holes behind in the wall with a 13mm spade end drill bit straight in to the bedroom, i removed a large portion of the plasterboard in the bedroom and then got my hands on some 25mm cable and stripped out 3 feet of red live and the same of black neutral, i pushed the live through the hole in the back of the box which was still dead as the fuse was removed, and the same with the black, i took an earth feed from my main consumer unit above my meter through the wall too, i bought a 5 - way small consumer box with a 100 amp isolator and 2 x 32 amp mcb (miniature circuit breaker) i have connected 1 mcb to two x two gang rcd (residual current device) sockets in a ring and the other to a 2 gang rcd socket, so now i have 3 double rcd sockets, 1 separate ring from the other two. i run every thing from these 6 rcd sockets including 2 separate 16 amp immersion heater timers to run my lights all connected through 13 amp fused plugs. when i go out i am paranoid as hell. what do you think, i am only running about 3500 watts total for 18 hours from this. i then put every thing back in order in the meter cupboard and i still get charged for power for the rest of my house, the guy that is manager of the tower block came to see me and he opened my meter cupboard as i had my kitchen rewired 2 weeks before i did this, and he didnt smell a rat. i am waiting on the meter reader who comes every six months to read it soon. but i am totally paranoid about fire.

WeeGogs said:

hey sparky this is true. i live in a tower block with 18 floors, i live on the 7th, my electric meter is situated in a cupboard that has its back to a bedroom and is 100 amp+ and 240v , the guy that fitted the single main fuse inadvertently left just enough room on the crimped seal wire to pull out the fuse that disconnects my meter, so i removed the fuse and that gave me access to a screw that removes a cover that conceals the neutral wire connection plate now i can see the the two connector plates, so i drilled straight through them both, (the disconnected from live side of course), right through the single main fuse box with a 5.5mm drillbit, i removed the main fuse box and slowly pulled it forward just enough for me to go through the 5.5mm holes behind in the wall with a 13mm spade end drill bit straight in to the bedroom, i removed a large portion of the plasterboard in the bedroom and then got my hands on some 25mm cable and stripped out 3 feet of red live and the same of black neutral, i pushed the live through the hole in the back of the box which was still dead as the fuse was removed, and the same with the black, i bought a 5 - way small consumer box with a 100 amp isolator and 2 x 32 amp mcb (miniature circuit breaker) i have connected 1 mcb to two x two gang rcd (residual current device) sockets in a ring and the other to a 2 gang rcd socket, so now i have 3 double rcd sockets, 1 separate ring from the other two. i run every thing from these 6 rcd sockets including 2 separate 16 amp immersion heater timers to run my lights all connected through 13 amp fused plugs. when i go out i am paranoid as hell. what do you think, i am only running about 3500 watts total for 18 hours from this. i then put every thing back in order in the meter cupboard and i still get charged for power for the rest of my house, the guy that is manager of the tower block came to see me and he opened my meter cupboard as i had my kitchen rewired 2 weeks before i did this, and he didnt smell a rat. i am waiting on the meter reader who comes every six months to read it soon. but i am totally paranoid about fire.

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you should be... and your lucky you dont live in north america....

tapping into meter boxes is STUPID, its what gets you CAUGHT!

http://www.tokeofthetown.com/2010/10/smart_electric_meters_could_target_indoor_marijuan.php

Many of the technical papers floating around on IEEE's huge engineering paper database talk about smart meters which are programmed to know the IV curves of all appliances. With this information, a Laplace transform can extract the individual IV curves from the total raw IV curve sufficient to know if the appliance is an HID ballast or a toaster. So, in theory, smart meters can collect all sorts of information about consumers' power consumption habits. This more sophisticated technology is probably not commonplace right now, even where smart meters are common. But, growers and consumers alike should be aware of these future capabilities sufficient to let their power companies know that they don't take kindly to such eavesdropping.

We all need to realize the SECONDARY motivation of power companies when they data mine their customers for such things: This data can be sold to third parties for the purpose of more specialized advertising -- and yes, even sold to law enforcement through third parties (which is already commonly done for telephone record pen registers here in the United States).

There are many papers written in these IEEE databases which discuss the legal and social ramifications of power companies doing such things. It's too bad that more of the public is not discussing it.

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- Hugh Jielder

Thank you.

I am looking at a warehouse that has 100 amp 3 phase power. I am not really sure how 3 phase works. Would I have enough power to run 8 1000 watt lights at 220v or 240v per phase and have enough power left over to run my other equipment? I have read a bunch of different information on the internet about 3 phase power and everyone has different idea's how it works. Please show me your calculations so that I can learn for future reference. Thanks for any help!!!