BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
You are going to need a few circuits. Each outlet in a room is not on its own breaker. Flip the breaker for the room and see if any other outlets are still live.
Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
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BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
You answered your own Q. different AC or get the breaker box to outlet rewired.
imbuzzncuzn!
Member
you dont want to use more than 16 amps on a 20 amp receptacle.
PoBox123
Member
You answered your own Q. different AC or get the breaker box to outlet rewired.
Maybe? But, I read the side of the A/C unit today while working on insulation in my room, it says on the unit it is uses 12.5 amps. again WTF? I have a 15 amp recipticle and 15 amp breaker and nothing else runs on that circuit. I plugged in today on fan mode and it ran all day. I was in there a 4-5 hours and it did not kick the breaker. It is only when the compressor kicks on that she BLOWS!!!
Can I use a 20amp recipticle on a 15 amp breaker? I have one in my toolbox. Your thoughts please. Anybody???
Maybe? But, I read the side of the A/C unit today while working on insulation in my room, it says on the unit it is uses 12.5 amps. again WTF? I have a 15 amp recipticle and 15 amp breaker and nothing else runs on that circuit. I plugged in today on fan mode and it ran all day. I was in there a 4-5 hours and it did not kick the breaker. It is only when the compressor kicks on that she BLOWS!!!
Can I use a 20amp recipticle on a 15 amp breaker? I have one in my toolbox. Your thoughts please. Anybody???
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
weak thermal element in the circuit breaker? id replace the breaker, first ,before i started going nuts.
OR
if the compressor doesnt run at all, just kicks the breaker when it tries to startup... could be bad compressor motor
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
yep. and here's why:
120v x 20a = 2400w
2400w x 80%(continuous duty derating) = 1920 w
1920w/120v = 16 amps
saltedq
Member
Thanx a lot man for doin this for everyone, I'm bout to move into a new place where I have a perfect extra room, my question is I plan on running a 400 watt hps w ballast and hood w fans for room and vent for hps lite through hood. Will the current outlets in the room hold or does some re wiring and extra whatever needed to be upgraded my buddy is an electrion and can help but rather get the info from you. When I move in on Monday I will have more exact details until then tell me what I need to look at find out so I can tell u what I am already worken w as is and what needs to be dne. Thanx again. My email is available to u if it makes it eaier to respond.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
inrush current
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
for a 400 you should be fine. i suggest finding out what else in on that breaker.
punkrockdave
Active Member
hey man, this really has nothing to do with weed, but I needed some input on an electric problem im having,
my electric meter spins normal (the dial on the meter) for about 3 rotations and then spins over twice as fast for about a rotation and a half,
I finally traced the cause to something in our stove, so my question is do you have any idea what could be causing it, the stove is only about 3 years old, any advice would be great,'
Thanks in advance -dave
my electric meter spins normal (the dial on the meter) for about 3 rotations and then spins over twice as fast for about a rotation and a half,
I finally traced the cause to something in our stove, so my question is do you have any idea what could be causing it, the stove is only about 3 years old, any advice would be great,'
Thanks in advance -dave
KnowledgeSeeker
Active Member
Hmm... anyone got any ideas on this?
PoBox123
Member
Ok, after climbing all through my attic on a 90 degree day, 100 + in attic. I finally figured out the outlet I was trying to use had other things attched to it, and that is why my Portable AC unit was kicking the breaker. In my discovery of the attic I also found a 20 amp wire that led to a outlet in my house that has nothing else on it. That's a good thing.
I tried to pull the wire up the wall into the attic to splice more wire to it, to get the wire where I need it to be. It would not budge. It must be nailed or something inside the wall halfway up.
My question is. Can I turn off the breaker to that outlet and then cut the wire in the attic and splice it with wire nuts and then using the same gauge wire pull the connected wire where I need it to be?
If not, do I have to add some kind of box in the attic where I'm going to splice the wires together?
If yes, what kind of box and can someone show a picture or drawing of what I need to do.
I am retarded when it comes to electricty.
Thanks everybody, I really need the help.
Po.
I tried to pull the wire up the wall into the attic to splice more wire to it, to get the wire where I need it to be. It would not budge. It must be nailed or something inside the wall halfway up.
My question is. Can I turn off the breaker to that outlet and then cut the wire in the attic and splice it with wire nuts and then using the same gauge wire pull the connected wire where I need it to be?
If not, do I have to add some kind of box in the attic where I'm going to splice the wires together?
If yes, what kind of box and can someone show a picture or drawing of what I need to do.
I am retarded when it comes to electricty.
Thanks everybody, I really need the help.
Po.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
An 'OR' will work.
You use the temp control and a timer. If either are 'active' it runs the fan.
Just make sure both are fed from the same phase in the house and the hot and neutral are wired correctly.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Code states the distance between the staples securing the wire to studs. So yes, its nailed down.
Considering your last statement, might be bet to get a qualified electrician to relocate the outlet. (I'm not trying to be a prick, but messing with this stuff can lead t bad results. But then its not rocket science either)
Home Depot as a good book on DIY wiring.
Considering your last statement, might be bet to get a qualified electrician to relocate the outlet. (I'm not trying to be a prick, but messing with this stuff can lead t bad results. But then its not rocket science either)
Home Depot as a good book on DIY wiring.
Try and find an old computer PSU as these have on/off switches. Cut a red wire (+5 V) and splice it to one of the fan wires and tape the bare wires. You don't need the yellow wire (+ 12 V) . Cut a black wire coming from the PSU and splice it to the other fan wire.
If you have a newer type of PSU (ATX) it will be a little trickier. You could find the on off switch (usually a green wire) and short it against a black wire to turn it on or you could use a motherboard and set everything up inside. There should be labels on the front of the MB that tell you where to plug in On/Off, Reset, LED lights and such.
It's up to you how to power the fans because there are many places to plug the fans in.
nugbuckets
Well-Known Member
hey bro, thanks for working this thread. Where can I get some inexpensive 4 inch fans for a 3 by 3 by 5? And what do I use for a thermo on switch for the intake? Thanks in advance
Peace
Peace
KnowledgeSeeker
Active Member
Thanks BigBudBalls. For the electrically challenged (me), can you elaborate on the 'OR'. Is that how they are wired or an additional device?
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
An 'OR' is a control that allows either A and/or B turn on C.
and 'AND' needs both A & B to turn on C
and a 'XOR' (exclusive OR) can only have A or B turn on C (if A & B are on, C will still be off)
ORs are easiest to do, power gets fed from 2 sources to the device
(but like I said, needs wired right polarity-wise hot vs neutral. mix them up and you will pop breakers.)