EWC Questions: and thought on the, "Cannabis Soil Food Web"

1)What should you feed the worms? Will the worms eat fruit, as in an apples, peaches, black berries, etc?

2)Is there different grades of worm castings? If you feed worms only fruits? will it be different from feeding them only lettuce?

3)What is the best stuff too feed them if the worm casting will be for buds?

4)do any of the above questions matter? does all worm shit come out worm shit and it doesn't matter what you feed them just how you use the worm shit, i.e. teas, or mix?

5)How should you store worm castings after harvest? is it best to seal them in large zip locks, or do the beni's need oxygen?

6)What exactly is in worm compost and how does it help the organic Cannabis Soil Food Web

6)How much, say in the weight of pounds is a small system the like the worm factory 360, or a DIY indoor apartment jam going to crank out? and how often?


I Would like to get into worm composting, but I want to be able to feed them (the worms) enough good organic material to really thrive, preferably stuff they like, stuff they will turn into good high test fertilizer for buds, and stuff I have easy access too. . I don't even know how long it takes for them to quit "eating their own shit" and more on so you can harvest?

This thing is awesome>>> http://www.hammacher.com/Product/17495?promo=search


wormi worm worms

johnyutah said:

1)What should you feed the worms? Will the worms eat fruit, as in an apples, peaches, black berries, etc?

2)Is there different grades of worm castings? If you feed worms only fruits? will it be different from feeding them only lettuce?

3)What is the best stuff too feed them if the worm casting will be for buds?

4)do any of the above questions matter? does all worm shit come out worm shit and it doesn't matter what you feed them just how you use the worm shit, i.e. teas, or mix?

5)How should you store worm castings after harvest? is it best to seal them in large zip locks, or do the beni's need oxygen?

6)What exactly is in worm compost and how does it help the organic Cannabis Soil Food Web

6)How much, say in the weight of pounds is a small system the like the worm factory 360, or a DIY indoor apartment jam going to crank out? and how often?


I Would like to get into worm composting, but I want to be able to feed them (the worms) enough good organic material to really thrive, preferably stuff they like, stuff they will turn into good high test fertilizer for buds, and stuff I have easy access too. . I don't even know how long it takes for them to quit "eating their own shit" and more on so you can harvest?

This thing is awesome>>> http://www.hammacher.com/Product/17495?promo=search


wormi worm worms

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1. you what your worm diet to have a mixture of both fruit and veg but try to avoid things like chillies onions and citrus fruit this can cause iritation to the worms skin or so i believe. coffee grounds and tea bags/leaves also work. The smaller you chop up there food the quicker it breaks down.
2. not totally sure but i am trying to do the same and make a bud mix to. i try to feed the worms foods high in K, bannas, kiwe's left overs like that.
3. I got it NPK tested at college results were low N medium to high P and high K.
5. i to would like to hear what people have to say on storage.
6. i went dIY on mine but im outdoors

#1. Choices, choices, choices... In reality, worms can eat TONS of different food sources, from dryer lint and dinner scraps, to junk mail and medicinal herbs...

I feed my worms as varied a diet as I can, but dont really give them much in the way of non human food... besides shredded newspaper/coco fiber to control moisture.

I feed them LOTS of herbs, from used tea bags, and herbs and weeds I grow or find in/around my garden (clovers, comfrey, stinging nettle, dried leaves, grass...etc)

#2 There are definitely grades of castings... My bins are "graded" by age, as I fill one bin, I stack another on top, when I run out of bins, I let the worms do their thing for a while...

The bottom bin (oldest) has the highest grade, the second from the bottom bin, will still have useble castings, just not as finely digested, and will have more active worms in it.

#3 Organic greens, herbs, coco fiber and other vegetable based food scraps.

#4 I think it matters... Because it matters with animals and people...

#5 I only harvest my castings if my bins are full, otherwise, if I am brewing a tea, I just grab a handful from the bottom tray. For storage after a big harvest, I put the castings in a plastic shopping bag, loosely tied, stored in a dark, cool place, they stay "fresh" for a couple months like this...

#6 A single worm bin will produce a decent amount of castings, but more around the amounts needed for AACT, as opossed to having enough to add directly to the soil. IMO

I like to buy the huge bags for a soil mix, and use my own produced castings for teas (much more alive than store bought)

I'm not going in order, that's not my style lol. But I think I have ALL YOUR ANSWERS

I seal mine up and store it before mixing it into my soil mix. I use a stacking system, so even after my worms have finished the compost and moved up, there are still a bunch of little bugs and stuff that I don't want to chance putting in a high compost soilless mix, Gnome sayin? So I say seal em up.

If you think about it, even after it's been sealed...it's compost. You open it up, air hits it...stuff grows on it. Immediately.

You should try to use a good mix of fruit and veg scraps. I cut up peels and big scraps because other wise they can take months to compost, and I try to do EVERYTHING on a perpetual system.

The worms technically don't "digest" or "poop" anything out, it just passes through there stomachs kinda...so even though I haven't been able to find any real documented information on how much of the NPK values are left in the compost after the worms pass it, it makes sense that the compost would retain the values. I actually just ordered a second stacking system that should be here in a week so that I can run separate compost with high PK values in one and high N in another. I believe that through this I could make a flowering soilless mix with high PK compost and not have to use soft rock or guanos. As soon as it comes I'm starting the compost and starting a journal with some fresh cuttings that I will try this out with after vegging for 6 weeks.

Don't forget, this is worm COMPOST. It's not gonna be like the worm castings you buy in the bag. This stuff is WAYYY more beneficial. Some of the compost never even passes through the worms, it just sits there and composts.

Right now I'm using the Worm Factory 360 with somewhere around 4000 worms. I throw in about 10 lbs a week in compost now, so I'm not exactly sure what I'll be getting, but when I was throwing in 5 or 6 lbs a week before they all had babies, I was getting 2 or 3 gallons of finished compost every 3 or 4 weeks.

Now I'm using 5 trays though, and I'll be uing 4 or 5 trays on the next one and start of with 2000 worms, so it's really all about how much compost you WANT to make, not how much you CAN make. You can make as much as you want. I'd recommend you get the Worm Factory 360 though, it's actually pretty awesome. Get a couple extra stacking trays though if you want a lot of compost and get 2000 worms (2lbs).

If you find you don't have enough food waste to get the amount of compost you want, get a juicer. I make enough green juice and fruit juice for a few days and get like 3 lbs of fruit and veg scraps. Oh, and I wouldn't recommend using any non-organic food waste....lot's of reasons.

Hope that helps!

Thanks a ton RIU members. nothing better than getting answers in a clear and concise manner, and this thread is only a few days old.... neat! RIU is fucking awesome