Early Trichomes?

PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
Alright, so, my kids are all growing much better now that I've got everything fixed up.

Just a quick question now:
So, these are all regular feminized White Widow (not auto flower or anything), just over a month old (yes, I know they're small, and there are reasons, but that's not the point here.) and the other day while getting them into 1 gallon pots, I noticed what looks like a ton of little trichomes all over the leaves! So, the question, is it odd to see that at this age/size? Especially in such quantities? Just a soil grow under a lot of CFLs on 18/6. I noticed a little of this after just a couple weeks in, but now there's much more. So, normal, just really good genes, something else? I know it not bugs, water dust, etc. too.

Thanks,
Peach
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K

kermit2692

Well-Known Member
So is it a real question orrr??.. Well anyway those aren't trichs at all they are.. Shit I forgot the name it's like little tiny hairs though.. Make sure those black dots I see aren't moving..
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
kermit2692 said:
So is it a real question orrr??.. Well anyway those aren't trichs at all they are.. Shit I forgot the name it's like little tiny hairs though.. Make sure those black dots I see aren't moving..
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Ah, okay, that'd actually make more sense. They do have quite an aroma though, which also made me guess trichomes. Nope, they aren't moving lol. That's just specs of soil from re-potting the other day.
 
hotrodharley

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
Looks like PM to me.That one pic is very clear. Dry conditions but high humidity like misting are perfect for PM. I'm a southwest desert boy I'm telling you.
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
superbak3d said:
Those aren't trichs that's for sure.

Stop foliar feeding them for one. No reason for your leaves to be wet like that.

I'm going to chalk this up as PM.
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Hmm, alright. I don't ever do foliar feed, just mist them with RO water when the RH is getting too low to help them not dry out too quick with the dual fans going in there.
 
superbak3d

superbak3d

Well-Known Member
PeachyBuds said:
Hmm, alright. I don't ever do foliar feed, just mist them with RO water when the RH is getting too low to help them not dry out too quick with the dual fans going in there.
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Why?

You're in soil.

2 fans aren't going to "dry out" a MJ plant.
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
hotrodharley said:
Looks like PM to me.That one pic is very clear.
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Really? Wouldn't that have needed humidity to get going? Never gone above 45%, and a lot of the time it's been 20%. Seems odd to have mildew. And like I said, thats been there for a few weeks now, just seems to have a little more right now. I mean, I am new, but it looks more like hairs or trichomes to me, and both of those would make much more sense. These have also been in a super clean place the whole time, and everything was disinfected and cleaned.
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
superbak3d said:
Why?

You're in soil.

2 fans aren't going to "dry out" a MJ plant.
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Well, having rh at 20% here on average, it actually was drying them out a ton. Since I got it bumped up to 45%, I've really noticed the leaves broadening and not staying super thin and dry looking and feeling. plus this enough fan power (4 total: 2 in, 2 out) that it's actually wind-damaged some plants before. Needed to set up partial shields on three closer ones. Have to have that much to keep it cool in there though :/
 
superbak3d

superbak3d

Well-Known Member
PeachyBuds said:
Really? Wouldn't that have needed humidity to get going? Never gone above 45%, and a lot of the time it's been 20%. Seems odd to have mildew. And like I said, thats been there for a few weeks now, just seems to have a little more right now. I mean, I am new, but it looks more like hairs or trichomes to me, and both of those would make much more sense. These have also been in a super clean place the whole time, and everything was disinfected and cleaned.
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Fan leaves don't produce resin (trichs).

So generally speaking, white shit on fan leaves is most likely PM.

Trichs also don't start producing until roughly week 3 of flower anyways.
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
superbak3d said:
Fan leaves don't produce resin (trichs).

So generally speaking, white shit on fan leaves is most likely PM.

Trichs also don't start producing until roughly week 3 of flower anyways.
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Right, I didn't think fan leaves would, although I don't have a good way to get close enough in to tell for sure. I mean, I appreciate the opinion, I just can't see how it could be mildew with the constant heavy air movement, clean area, and low rh... just seems very odd. Makes more sense that it'd be little hairs similar to trichomes, but without resin, much like trichomes on non-cannabis plants.
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
superbak3d said:
Fan leaves don't produce resin (trichs).

So generally speaking, white shit on fan leaves is most likely PM.

Trichs also don't start producing until roughly week 3 of flower anyways.
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But, let's do a test (I mean, hey better safe than sorry lol). What's a non-harmful way to get rid of pm? I'll happily give them a quick spray of something for it so long as it doesn't harm the plant, just to see. Again, I don't think it could be pm, but in the event that it somehow got going in low rh and a terrible general environment for pm, then it's still not a bad Idea to be preventative.
 
K

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
Favorable Conditions:

Dense plant growth, low light intensity. High relative humidity (RH) is favorable for infection and conidial survival, infection can take place at RH levels as low as fifty (50%) percent.

Dry conditions are favorable for colonization, sporulation and dispersal. Rain and free moisture on plant surfaces are unfavorable, however, disease development occurs in both the presence or absence of dew (water). Infection can occur from fifty to ninety (50-90) degrees F.; mean temperatures of sixty eight to eighty (68-80) degrees F. are favorable. Powdery mildew development is arrested at daytime temperatures of one hundred (100) degrees F. or higher. Plants in the field are often not affected until after fruit initiation. The leaves are most susceptible sixteen to twenty three (16-23) days after unfolding.



Contrary to popular belief, powdery mildew does not require free water to establish and grow. Infection can occur on dry leaves. Warm temperatures and shady conditions encourage the fungus to grow and spread. However, the spores and mycelium (roots) are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight.



The optimum temperature for infection is between sixty eight to seventy seven (68-77) degrees F. and relative humidity between forty to one hundred (40-100) percent is sufficient for the spores to germinate. Low, diffuse light also seems to favor powdery mildew development. The mildew can spread rapidly since the disease cycle can be completed in as little as seventy two (72) hours. However, it commonly takes seven to ten (7-10) days from the time of infection to the development of symptoms and secondary spore production.



Powdery mildew thrives where high rates of nitrogen have been used. High nitrogen promotes tender leaf formation, causing dense stands (leaves) that are more suspetible to infections. Adequately fertilize but avoid stimulating succulent growth. Organic fertilizers or slow release fertilizers are best.

Prune out infected plant parts to increase airflow. If infestations are severe, remove and destroy infected plants. Disinfect pruning equipment in a bleach solution: 1 part bleach (clorox) to 4 parts water after each cut!

Do not crowd plants! Ventilation will discourage mildew growth. Water plants in the morning--they have all day to dry off!



Organic Sprays-
 
PeachyBuds

PeachyBuds

Member
KryptoBud said:
Favorable Conditions:

Dense plant growth, low light intensity. High relative humidity (RH) is favorable for infection and conidial survival, infection can take place at RH levels as low as fifty (50%) percent.

Dry conditions are favorable for colonization, sporulation and dispersal. Rain and free moisture on plant surfaces are unfavorable, however, disease development occurs in both the presence or absence of dew (water). Infection can occur from fifty to ninety (50-90) degrees F.; mean temperatures of sixty eight to eighty (68-80) degrees F. are favorable. Powdery mildew development is arrested at daytime temperatures of one hundred (100) degrees F. or higher. Plants in the field are often not affected until after fruit initiation. The leaves are most susceptible sixteen to twenty three (16-23) days after unfolding.



Contrary to popular belief, powdery mildew does not require free water to establish and grow. Infection can occur on dry leaves. Warm temperatures and shady conditions encourage the fungus to grow and spread. However, the spores and mycelium (roots) are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight.



The optimum temperature for infection is between sixty eight to seventy seven (68-77) degrees F. and relative humidity between forty to one hundred (40-100) percent is sufficient for the spores to germinate. Low, diffuse light also seems to favor powdery mildew development. The mildew can spread rapidly since the disease cycle can be completed in as little as seventy two (72) hours. However, it commonly takes seven to ten (7-10) days from the time of infection to the development of symptoms and secondary spore production.



Powdery mildew thrives where high rates of nitrogen have been used. High nitrogen promotes tender leaf formation, causing dense stands (leaves) that are more suspetible to infections. Adequately fertilize but avoid stimulating succulent growth. Organic fertilizers or slow release fertilizers are best.

Prune out infected plant parts to increase airflow. If infestations are severe, remove and destroy infected plants. Disinfect pruning equipment in a bleach solution: 1 part bleach (clorox) to 4 parts water after each cut!

Do not crowd plants! Ventilation will discourage mildew growth. Water plants in the morning--they have all day to dry off!



Organic Sprays-
Click to expand...
Great info, thank you! So, it is entirely possible then for this to be pm, since the plants have had N issues (too little and too much), they had been quite dry, but the rh is now at 45% and temp is about 75°, and the lighting has been a bit low until about a week ago. Pleanty of airflow in there though, and they've gotten misted with straight RO water on the leaves fairly well with each watering. But, nonetheless, it's still definitely possible that this is pm. I've read Potassium Bicarbonate spray is a great way to stop it while staying organic and not damaging the plant. Is that a good way to go? I also have 2 UV-B bulbs I can add in any time. will that help kill pm?
 
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