Early stage discolor leaves in DWC

You can see on one the lower leaves are discolored and looking a little funky. other ones that have come up look fine and new leaves are looking good.

From what I have read it can be and combo of low nutes in early stages and they will grow out of it once a regiment

Agree disagree?

if you're ph is good, feed them.

they are starving. 5.5-6.0 (5.8 ideal) ph. if that's in check, you need to add more nutrients.

Been keeping the PH in that range.

So you think it's just needingredients of catch them up on feeding?

I did withhold nutes until roots, and then started with a small amount and only did 3/4 strength this time.

Should I wait until I change the res this weekend or add in a couple drops of nutes now and then full strength when I replace

Here is a pic from this morning top leaves look good, jut the bottoms so hoping some more nitro will help you can see the bottom one a little

mrpuffins said:

Been keeping the PH in that range.

So you think it's just needingredients of catch them up on feeding?

I did withhold nutes until roots, and then started with a small amount and only did 3/4 strength this time.

Should I wait until I change the res this weekend or add in a couple drops of nutes now and then full strength when I replace

Here is a pic from this morning top leaves look good, jut the bottoms so hoping some more nitro will help you can see the bottom one a little

View attachment 3832138 View attachment 3832139

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wait for res change. what's the tds? top does look good, so you may be good, the lowest leaves won't be relevant in a few weeks, so if new growth is good, stick with what you're doing.

Word, ppm is around 280, 22 Celsius.

Thanks for the assurance

Boost your ppm up to around 500 for plants that size. I rarely change nutes in DWC and just bump the ppm up with carefully measured doses of the nutes to reach and keep them at the level I want.

I only use good RO water, <25ppm, to top up then check ppm and use syringes to measure out each nute and squirt it into the tub to raise the ppm.

I've done DWC for 15 years so have run into most problems over the years.

OldMedUser said:

Boost your ppm up to around 500 for plants that size. I rarely change nutes in DWC and just bump the ppm up with carefully measured doses of the nutes to reach and keep them at the level I want.

I only use good RO water, <25ppm, to top up then check ppm and use syringes to measure out each nute and squirt it into the tub to raise the ppm.

I've done DWC for 15 years so have run into most problems over the years.

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I was worried about getting to 500 because that exceeds the recommended dose for a gallon res.

What's RO , reverse osmosis ?

So you don't change your resume, just top off? how do ensure the right balance of nutes, sounds like you have .

Will need some support in this new venture from soil to DWC THANKS!

Rez size doesn't matter. 1 gallon or a thousand gallons it's the concentration that matters and I start clones at around 300 then go 500 once they have roots in the water and are showing rapid growth. Bump up as required over the next few weeks to around 1000 or more depending on the strain and how they seem to like it.

I will usually do a nute change after the stretch but have gone all the way to harvest without a nute change at all in RubberMaid tubs. If you want to grow larger plants and get great yields with less hassle then a tub is the way to go. A decent sized plant can suck up a half gallon/day or more so even a 5 gal pail needs constant attention. With a tub holding 8 - 12 gallons you can go 3 days without even checking the plants if you have everything dialed in.

If using tap water that is over 100ppm then you should change nutes every time you have added back the same amount of water that your grow container holds. Even in a pail that may take weeks when starting with tiny clones but later when they get big you might be changing every week. With RO water you don't have to worry about toxic salts buildup caused by the minerals in the water. That screws up plants grown in soil/soilless mixes too but most people aren't aware of it until it screws up the plants usually in later flowering but often much earlier than that if they have hard water that can be 400ppm.

This pic is from a side-by-side I did a few years ago with one tub getting two changes and the other none at all to see what happens. The unchanged tub was as good or better than the one that got changes. All from seed tho with about 16 plants in each tub, Afghani Kush.

Nice good info

My tap water is about 200ppm and I guess I was a little light on the nutes out of the gate. an I did add about .5ml of each to the res mid day yesterday and the girls are standing a bit taller and stiffer today so they def liked it also dropped the PH so I think they loved that too

So if I don't change the water out completely, I feel lIke I run the risk of getting the micro, gro and bloom out of wack, but I guess so long as I am consistent with measuring I shouldn't worry too much so long as I am watching the ppm outcome when I add and start to understand what's happening with each dose .

You have to remember to subtract the starting ppm of your water from the total in your rez to know the actual amount of nute ppm you have. Then every time you top up you have to calculate how much more your ppm has gone up due to the amount of water you added to figure out how much more nutes to add to keep your nutrient ppm at the level you want. Say a 5 gal rez that takes a gallon to top up so you're adding 20% more water at 200ppm. 200ppm x 0.20 = 40ppm more from your water.

Gets confusing after a while and the minerals from your water will accumulate over time and screw every thing up.

I've always used RO water so I just top up then check the ppm and that way I can tell how much of the nutes the plants have eaten since the last top up. Then I use syringes to add precise amounts of each nute to get me back to my target ppm or very close. That doesn't tell me how much of each particular nute the plants have used but if given back in the approximate ratios that the plants need for whatever stage of growth they are in then they seem to do just fine.

You should always wait for an hour after topping up before checking ppm and pH so everything has time to react and stabilize then add nutes first then wait a half hour or so to test pH before a final adjustment of that. After a while you get to know how your pH reacts and can just test the pH every 2nd or 3rd top up. Or get pH Perfect nutes and retire your pH pen.