Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)

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Bullethead21

Well-Known Member
Wow, what a great thread! Thanks HB and to all its contributors! Below is a short summary of the testing results we experienced when testing Dynagro. The system used was a RDWC system very like the Under Current system.

We started testing Dynagro about a year ago now I thinks its been, and once we started following a "nutrient profile" instead of anything else, things got better and most all problems went away as fast as they arrived! This led to further study in nutrient profiles matched to tissue samples.

We found that in flower the plant uses alot more nitrogen in flower than expected as well as alot more K than P. We also found that this type of fast growing plant does NOT need 2 separate profiles for veg and bloom. Using just the bloom formula and Protek with cal/mag in RO seem'd to produce the best results out of all tried. We also found the Dynagro Bloom formula has the MOST concentrated levels of K and P out of all the base nutes out there.

And for those wanting HB to do a test against House & Garden, been there done that...H&G lost big time! If you want to mimick the very expensive Roots Excelarator then try mixing Dynagro's KLN rooting product which contains the same hormones that are in RE, add a little Superthrive for the vitamins and you are there my friend for much less than half the cost of RE! But it actually works better than RE......

Just thought I would share some of our experiences when testing Dynagro formula's agaisnt others in RDWC systems.

Currently testing Advanced new PH Perfect Sensi line and what a pain in the ass that has turned out to be. Cant find ANY information of it being used in a DWC typr enviroment......trying to get info from AN is useless.....how can this formula claim to be PH perfect for soil AND hydro when they take 2 separate PH levels??? You want 6.5 PH in soil yes?? And you want 5.8 in Hydro yes?? How does this formula know the difference/??

We have also noticed very strange water effects like when adding the nutrient, it actually changes the size of the bubbles coming out of the air stones.....and you can hear this weird hissing noise as well. After a few hours the bubbles return to normal tiny sizes and the hissing noise goes away.....weird shit!!

Anyhow thanks again for all the awesome info and sharing the knowledge!

Peace!
 
irishboy

irishboy

Well-Known Member
homebrewer said:
KISS, low feeding levels and a little patience will go a very long way in producing crops vastly superior to our peers. As much as I want to chime in on every thread titled something like; 'Has anyone tried Super XL bud swell?', it's almost easier to let them learn their own way. It's not just here though, comments on youtube echo the same ignorance that seems to plague the entire cannabis growing community. I almost want to quit giving advice publicly as simplicity is quite the valuable secret.
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Bullethead21 said:
Wow, what a great thread! Thanks HB and to all its contributors! Below is a short summary of the testing results we experienced when testing Dynagro. The system used was a RDWC system very like the Under Current system.

We started testing Dynagro about a year ago now I thinks its been, and once we started following a "nutrient profile" instead of anything else, things got better and most all problems went away as fast as they arrived! This led to further study in nutrient profiles matched to tissue samples.

We found that in flower the plant uses alot more nitrogen in flower than expected as well as alot more K than P. We also found that this type of fast growing plant does NOT need 2 separate profiles for veg and bloom. Using just the bloom formula and Protek with cal/mag in RO seem'd to produce the best results out of all tried. We also found the Dynagro Bloom formula has the MOST concentrated levels of K and P out of all the base nutes out there.

And for those wanting HB to do a test against House & Garden, been there done that...H&G lost big time! If you want to mimick the very expensive Roots Excelarator then try mixing Dynagro's KLN rooting product which contains the same hormones that are in RE, add a little Superthrive for the vitamins and you are there my friend for much less than half the cost of RE! But it actually works better than RE......

Just thought I would share some of our experiences when testing Dynagro formula's agaisnt others in RDWC systems.

Currently testing Advanced new PH Perfect Sensi line and what a pain in the ass that has turned out to be. Cant find ANY information of it being used in a DWC typr enviroment......trying to get info from AN is useless.....how can this formula claim to be PH perfect for soil AND hydro when they take 2 separate PH levels??? You want 6.5 PH in soil yes?? And you want 5.8 in Hydro yes?? How does this formula know the difference/??

We have also noticed very strange water effects like when adding the nutrient, it actually changes the size of the bubbles coming out of the air stones.....and you can hear this weird hissing noise as well. After a few hours the bubbles return to normal tiny sizes and the hissing noise goes away.....weird shit!!

Anyhow thanks again for all the awesome info and sharing the knowledge!

Peace!
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very cool.. so u say run the bloom all the way threw and not use grow? one thing that i dont understand is you said the plants need allot of Nitrogen in flower but the bloom is pretty low?

you have any pics of your test or any pics of the dyna grown plants?
 
B

Bullethead21

Well-Known Member
That is an excellent question......

The calmag plus provides the needed nitrogen.

What I really meant by the post was that there seems to be this myth that plants use less nitrogen in flower than when in the vegetative cycle when the tissue samples show the opposite. This also would eliminate the need for this so called "grow" formula when you couple this with the speed that these plants grow at.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Bullethead21 said:
We found that in flower the plant uses alot more nitrogen in flower than expected as well as alot more K than P. We also found that this type of fast growing plant does NOT need 2 separate profiles for veg and bloom. Using just the bloom formula and Protek with cal/mag in RO seem'd to produce the best results out of all tried. We also found the Dynagro Bloom formula has the MOST concentrated levels of K and P out of all the base nutes out there.
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Proportionately, Connoisseur supplies more N and less P than DynaGro throughout flower and the results were a loss in bud density and a 'leafier' final product as compared to both GH and DG. I would certainly agree that during the first 3 weeks or so, one should supply enough N to keep their plants green as the sign that they are under-supplying would be leaf drop or yellowing leaves. I've also heard that K is under-supplied by many non-cannabis-specific fertilizers but too much will lockout N, Ca and Mg. It's a balancing act in the end and while I'm intrigued by the data from tissue samples, I tend to get my best results with a 1-3-2.
 
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Bullethead21

Well-Known Member
Your test seem to defiantly show that 1-3-2 is a very good ratio/profile to run, I do not think anyone could argue that after reading through this thread. There are other test projects as well which support this and the results are very similar to yours. Looks like the only real difference is that you do not use cal/mag but use the grow DG formula instead mixed with the bloom formula to arrive at your profile if I read correctly. Could you list the exact amounts of each (ml/gallon) that you mix for your bloom formula say mid flower or whenever your solution is mixed the strongest? I would like to run the numbers again and compare yours to what we tested.

This makes me wonder how much strain/genetics and especially environment conditions plays though at this time I do not think there will be enough evidence to support this theory.

Thanks again HB for all the information and sharing.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Bullethead21 said:
Your test seem to defiantly show that 1-3-2 is a very good ratio/profile to run, I do not think anyone could argue that after reading through this thread. There are other test projects as well which support this and the results are very similar to yours. Looks like the only real difference is that you do not use cal/mag but use the grow DG formula instead mixed with the bloom formula to arrive at your profile if I read correctly. Could you list the exact amounts of each (ml/gallon) that you mix for your bloom formula say mid flower or whenever your solution is mixed the strongest? I would like to run the numbers again and compare yours to what we tested.

This makes me wonder how much strain/genetics and especially environment conditions plays though at this time I do not think there will be enough evidence to support this theory.

Thanks again HB for all the information and sharing.
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I feed at what would be considered 'lower levels' which is around 1.2 EC at the peak of flowering. When using RO, I add 2mls of magpro per gallon and 5mls protekt. The rest of the EC is made up of some combination of Grow and bloom depending on the week. I use more grow at the beginning than at the end but if you take a look at Burr's pics, he doesn't run Grow during flower and is getting stellar results. I guess it takes a little tweaking depending on what our plants are telling us but I like the fact that I'm not juggling 7 products trying to figure out which is causing issues.
 
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Bullethead21

Well-Known Member
Right on! I like your style my friend! I think back in the thread I read you were using somewhere around 1ml per gallon of the grow I think it was? 1ml to 2ml sounds about right I think.

I agree also on the tweaking part, strain and enviroment I think could sway the said "tweaking" one way or the other but bottom line is that the similar ratio's are showing about the same stellar results accross the board which is all good. Especially since the nutrients being tested are so much cheaper and easier to manage than the more expensive Connie line.......According to the marketing done by AN, a cheap nutrient like Dynagro should NOT be coming any where close to the yields from such a high caliber and complete formula like Connie....much less perform BETTER!!

The next adventure I think will try using the grow and omit the calmag...also going to test with Magpro as the booster. Do you ever use koolbloom and magpro at the same time? Usually try and sneak some koolbloom powder in somewhere toward the later weeks in the flowering schedule.

Awesome info as always!!
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
Bullethead21 said:
Do you ever use koolbloom and magpro at the same time?
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One of the things I love about DG is that it doesn't need boosters. The bloom is a 3-12-6 or a 1-4-2 NPK ratio. I've found that to be plenty of P and K to satisfy the needs of my plants. Sure, MagPro has a booster-like NPK value and when using it, I'm always adding a touch of grow. I would think that koolbloom would just be too much P and K given what's already in my res.

Burr inspired a little side test in one of my reservoirs midway through this Connoisseur test. I ran a tray of AK's with only bloom and protekt along with my usual floralicious Plus from week 4 until harvest (tap water, not my usual RO). The plants stayed healthy and green up until the end and i'm 100% sure it out-yielded Connoisseur (though I'm still waiting for yield numbers). More importantly though was the fact that given the simplicity of my feeding schedule, the yields looked as good as they normally do from this area of my room. I think the point of my ramblings here are that it's all about balance. Find it and let the plants do what they've done since the beginning of time. No tricks, no fancy-label additives or funny marketing gimmicks, just the essentials.
 
irishboy

irishboy

Well-Known Member
Bullethead21 said:
That is an excellent question......

The calmag plus provides the needed nitrogen.

What I really meant by the post was that there seems to be this myth that plants use less nitrogen in flower than when in the vegetative cycle when the tissue samples show the opposite. This also would eliminate the need for this so called "grow" formula when you couple this with the speed that these plants grow at.
Click to expand...
homebrewer said:
Proportionately, Connoisseur supplies more N and less P than DynaGro throughout flower and the results were a loss in bud density and a 'leafier' final product as compared to both GH and DG. I would certainly agree that during the first 3 weeks or so, one should supply enough N to keep their plants green as the sign that they are under-supplying would be leaf drop or yellowing leaves. I've also heard that K is under-supplied by many non-cannabis-specific fertilizers but too much will lockout N, Ca and Mg. It's a balancing act in the end and while I'm intrigued by the data from tissue samples, I tend to get my best results with a 1-3-2.
Click to expand...
i am not sold of the hole claim more N is better in bloom that AN said or DG told me. ive tested this and it will give you leafy bud less dense and harsher weed. the more N is not needed IMO. i ran the Lucas forumla before and had great results. too much N will give you a hay smell and can make ur stems fold over also. ive tested it and will not be doing that one again. around week 3-4 of flowering i would hit them with a little N but thats it.

infact at the nd i like my plants to become N def because i get better smoke at the end. now threw bloom when the buds are growing you dont want things to yellow, but i found with the strains ive used that the DG bloom and mag pro will give all the N you need.

one things you guys should really try is the dark period before harvest. not to "in cress resin" or whatever others say, but it pushes the nutes back into the medium and give me much cleaner and just A+ smoke.

this is another reason why i stopped using OC+ because it had so much N in it!

tis run i am gonna start feeding DG bloom a week before i flower to see if they kick into gear more? one things that made a huge different in a test ive done was folair feeding with seaweed, made my girls flower in 5 days and bud sites everywhere. seaweed is the best thing you can feed a plant! also if you folair feed with a higher dose it will act like "Bush master" and stunt vertical growth

i dont rember but i think the cal/mag needs to be a 1:4 or 1:5 ratios or something close? thats one thing that worried me about adding the mag pro
 
Declectic

Declectic

Active Member
HB - thanks for putting in time and effort to share this valuable information. In short… I'm a first time grower. I have everything I need up and running except for nutrients and I'm going to need those ASAP as I'm getting ready to enter the veg phase.

Having read (& skimmed) through the last 61 pages&#8230; I'm curious&#8230; in the veg phase&#8230; all I need is Dyna-Gro Grow? and for bloom phase&#8230; Dyna-Gro Bloom&#8230; <--- just those two&#8230;*nothing else? I say nothing else because before reading you're thread I was going to go with the AN Sensi Grow A/B; voodoo juice; b-52 during my veg phase&#8230;*thus giving me the illusion that I need this/that/the other just get feed the girls. (BTW growing in soil if that matters)

Thanks for your input
 
MasterS

MasterS

Well-Known Member
We all seem to love adding Pro-Tekt as well. The Silicon helps with cell division and strengthens our girls.
 
irishboy

irishboy

Well-Known Member
ya get Pro-Tekt, then the grow and bloom/ mag-pro isnt needed as much unless ur using RO water, but i use tap and using it anyways. but Pro-Tekt is a must IMO just helps allot of things but you can still do what you need off of just the bloom and grow. thats whats so nice about DG they are no bullshit and make it cheap and simple
 
shnkrmn

shnkrmn

Well-Known Member
I've read comments elsewhere about folks blending RO and tap water and thus not having to add a supplement for Ca and Mg, and also not using so much RO. Thoughts, anyone?
 
Short Bus

Short Bus

Active Member
I add tap to my RO till it hits about 100-120, no need to sup and I find the ph is a little more stable that way.

Homebrewer, great journal. Subbed.
 
reverof

reverof

Active Member
Unless your tap water is really that far out there as far as PPM, and you are needing to supplement CalMag, easiest thing you can do is either use tap water or get a carbon filter for a hose... such as listed here http://www.purewaterproducts.com/gardenhosefilters.htm, and use tap water. I have a RO system, but I presently dont use the entire RO for my water, I use the pre-filter & carbon and run water to my grow space.... for soil its perfect, PH of 6.9 and never have a calmag deficiency. my PPM on the water coming out of the carbon filter is around 55, prior to cabon filter its like 90.
 
Declectic

Declectic

Active Member
Thanks for the great information. I was advised by a close friend that I shouldn't use my tap water because&#8230;*I have a software system installed and the salt used to clean the water&#8230;*can get in the water and bad for the roots and he recommended that I use my RO water instead.
 
N

nursejason

Member
All I can say is I am very happy I caught this thread and switched to DG Bloom, Protek, and been running some Cal-Mag due to my RO, I started adding Earth Juice for sweetener although it was suggested in thread not needed, I am in soil outdoors and about a month away from harvest, only my 2nd grow and all I can say is I am extremely pleased with progress so far. I neem oiled them just before flower and have had to caterpillar spray twice, I have also constructed a light deprivation area in backyard due to last year my main colas were getting street light. Thanks again for all the wonderful help of this thread to such a newbie as me, I opted for a feed, feed, water schedule due to info in thread and give organic tea on my water days, so far so good, don't know how to upload pics from phone, sorry but thanks again for all the wonderful information.
 
H

HighC

Member
Homebrewer,

I just finished my first Flood and Drain in systems just like yours. I also started another closet with 18 plants under 2 1000 watt lights in a Drain to waste system. I have found advantages and disadvantages of both but it seems less work to do the Drain to waste as I don't have to drain each week and replace each reservoir. I am going to run one more cycle on the Flood and Drain. I am going to go with which ever system yields the most. Have you used coco with drip emitters? What are your thoughts? What do you do with your trim of fan leaves after harvest? I have a large garbage bag full I need to get rid of. How long do you cure for? Sorry for so many questions but I have found most of the people I find on these chat rooms either don't know what they are talking about, or they won't help you. Thanks in advance!!!
 
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