DWC without res?

I am trying to think of a way to do a dwc system without needing to drill holes in the buckets but still have a return line for each bucket to a res and feeding / air tubes for each bucket. I move a lot and when I do I pull the T's out of the bucket as hard as I can and mess it up and always just buy new buckets... Primarily because I use aquarium glue on the T's and joints to prevent leaks, but then the system is locked in place from that minute on... I'm trying to figure out a way to get a multi bucket dwc system together with a main control / res but be able to move the buckets around freely...and not use glue on the joints so everything can be taken apart without breaking anything but still not get leaks....!?!? Would this be possible?

I was thinking I could drill holes and instead of using T connectors I could just stick the tube directly inside the bucket hole and have enough line inside the bucket so I could move it in / out to move the bucket around, but i would still need to drill holes and that would for sure leak...

Uniseals. Don't need any extra sealant if you de burr the holes correctly. I get your concept just gonna be tough to pressure fit tubes in the buckets

tyepoe said:

I am trying to think of a way to do a dwc system without needing to drill holes in the buckets but still have a return line for each bucket to a res and feeding / air tubes for each bucket. I move a lot and when I do I pull the T's out of the bucket as hard as I can and mess it up and always just buy new buckets... Primarily because I use aquarium glue on the T's and joints to prevent leaks, but then the system is locked in place from that minute on... I'm trying to figure out a way to get a multi bucket dwc system together with a main control / res but be able to move the buckets around freely...and not use glue on the joints so everything can be taken apart without breaking anything but still not get leaks....!?!? Would this be possible?

I was thinking I could drill holes and instead of using T connectors I could just stick the tube directly inside the bucket hole and have enough line inside the bucket so I could move it in / out to move the bucket around, but i would still need to drill holes and that would for sure leak...

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can you just leave it 3/4 of an inch long so you only have to replace the connections and can still make distance? And still seal it? I wouldnt f with leaks.

Typically I use the grommets and barbed fittings and seal it, your saying I don't need sealant with grommets or are Uniseal's better than the grommets and dont need sealant? I remember sometimes getting tiny leaks if I didn't seal some grommets enough and thats the problem, I need to be able to take everything apart for a move to get the buckets to stack inside each other again. Taking barbed fittings AND grommets in and out of a bucket can be a huge pain in the ass especially when there are a lot of buckets on top of the fact that if you do that more than once you start to fuck up the hole in the bucket.

Hi Alienwidow, sorry, i'm not sure I follow, could you elaborate?

I saw this attached pic a sec ago and was curious if this type of screw together connector would work without sealant... It would even help so I could disconnect each bucket to get the little bit of left over water out of each bucket during a water change... then instead of needing to pull like hell on a barb fitting to get it out of a bucket with a grommet, I could just unscrew it and be done, as long as it can be done w/o sealant...

The idea to move buckets wherever is because once you cut line between two buckets thats all your good for.. unless you drain all your water in your system, then cut more line to the new length you need and put it together again.. I was just curious if there was any voodoo you could do to get around this. say all the buckets are right next to each other in veg then , somehow / magically, you easily pull them apart to where you want them while everything is still connected... O yea, what about a type of line that could be folded like a dryer hose or like how ducting works to fold in on itself, but for a dwc return line....??!?!?!

possibly something like this ( http://goo.gl/aroZgI ) , but black... if you get what im on to... Not sure if that would work(I dont think these really extend / contract that much) but would be sick right! More conserned about a non leaking removable connection, but a flexible length tubing would be killer too lol!!


Thanks guys

Nah man, i was thinking youd just have to re assemble it and save all pieces you can. Cut it long and make sure theres no leaks. I get why youd want to leave it unsealed to move it but if you have a leak youll be sorry.

Alienwidow said:

Nah man, i was thinking youd just have to re assemble it and save all pieces you can. Cut it long and make sure theres no leaks. I get why youd want to leave it unsealed to move it but if you have a leak youll be sorry.

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ya exactly, move the bucket and your screwed, especially if its unsealed. well maybe I'll get the screw on connectors rather than the barbed fittings and grommets since that looks extremely easier to put together and seal it and hope the sealant will come off easily when I want to take it all apart again

As long as the containers are not round the screw on bulkheads will work. Just put a tad bit of vasolene in the rubber flat washer part and tighten it till it squeezes out around the fitting

I got the black 5 gal round buckets lol. Screw on not such a good idea? Probably sticking to rubber grommets and sealant still best idea? I guess I could experiment with the screw on with one bucket and monitor it... if nothing else I can seal the screw on and try to take the sealant off when I need to move everything... unscrewing would be preferred over pulling the shit out of a barbed fitting and messing up the hole for future use, IF I can get the sealant off (I use this stuff.. http://www.calranch.com/gorilla-gluesupreg/sup-epoxy )

Screw on one will need a lot of sealnt as well on a round bucket. At least if it's bigger than one inch. I use uniseals and its a bitch to take apart but seals 100% and no sealnt needed. A bitch to take apart but if your moving its definitly worth it and do able

Get lots of small mag drive pumps, one in each bucket, then just have hoses go in/out through the top. One bucket pumps into the next, and so on. run all the pumps at the same time off the same timer. You could have it set up as top drip or even put some sprayers on each line to make a dwc/top drip or dwc/aero hybrid.

Impossibly simple solution: internal threaded bulkheads.
By the way, NEVER use Vaseline or other sealants on the gasket regardless of whether the flange is on the wet or dry side. I understand this may not be common knowledge in the world of Hydro, but is one of the elementary rules when utilizing tank adapters and bulkhead fittings. The rubber gasket is fitted dry to avoid the seal from "backing off" over time with vibration etc. Ever seen a windshield installed? The concept is similar. The glass vulcanizes to the surface to create the seal. It's the same phenomenon in this application.
Further, although you still need to seal the internal threads, I prefer pipe dope stick products as opposed to Teflon tape. You just liberally apply the pipe dope to the threads, then screw in your pipe. 100% watertight everytime, and you can easily DC if you need to break it down.
( I've always used the pipe dope from Ace, but there's many different types, including this one)
http://www.poolsuppliesca.com/laco-pipe-dope-plasto-joint-stick-pipe-dope-pump-nipple-paste-up-to-250-degrees-11775/

Beezcheeze said:

As long as the containers are not round the screw on bulkheads will work. Just put a tad bit of vasolene in the rubber flat washer part and tighten it till it squeezes out around the fitting

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Sorry dude. Nothing but good vibes here, but this is absolutely wrong.
I should clarify, I see where you're going here, but it really depends on the flexibility, or how do you say.. "turgor" of a round bucket in regards to whether or not a screw in bulkhead fitting will flatten out the surface enough to properly seal. A more pliable plastic bucket will flatten out fine. A home depot bucket? Maybe not so much. But uniseals totally fkng blow, period.
Square buckets just make life so much easier.

Hey it's all good. I leaned slmething here today lol. I understand the concept now

Why do you say uniseals blow? I haven't has a single leak. I use only square bucket on any uniseals over 1 1/2"

Beezcheeze said:

Why do you say uniseals blow? I haven't has a single leak. I use only square bucket on any uniseals over 1 1/2"

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They work and they usually won't leak. That's not the issue. They're just more of a pain in the ass imo. With threaded fittings, especially with pipe dope applied, you can simply unscrew them. But to each his own. As long as you're not experiencing leaks, it doesn't really matter. OP's question was geared towards simplicity however. Nothing could be easier than just DC'ing a union somewhere and then unscrewing the male end from a bulkhead. As well, the pipe dope not only seals the threads, it will keep them from stripping, as well as serving as a sort of lubricant to easily unscrew the pipe. The viscosity is similar to putty that never hardens.

Get square buckets. mPBferts. You shouldn't use sealant wth grommets, uniseals, or bulkhead fittings.

Dankfactory said:

They work and they usually won't leak. That's not the issue. They're just more of a pain in the ass imo. With threaded fittings, especially with pipe dope applied, you can simply unscrew them. But to each his own. As long as you're not experiencing leaks, it doesn't really matter. OP's question was geared towards simplicity however. Nothing could be easier than just DC'ing a union somewhere and then unscrewing the male end from a bulkhead. As well, the pipe dope not only seals the threads, it will keep them from stripping, as well as serving as a sort of lubricant to easily unscrew the pipe. The viscosity is similar to putty that never hardens.

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Good thoughts. The uniseals are hard to break down if you wanted to. But are so water right I can sleep well at night knowing I won't we woken up in a puddle. Lol

At lowes... would plumbers putty work? Ok so I asked the guy about plumbers putty and he said it would dry up over time. Not sure if I can find the stuff your reffering to other than online but thats what im really looking for, some sort of putty that prevents leaks but doesnt dry so you can easily take it off and remove the screw fitting...

Hydro farms catalog has some badass square 8 and 13 gallon buckets with fold top lids. I ordered through my local hydrl store. Easily flip up either side to check roots.

tyepoe said:

At lowes... would plumbers putty work? Ok so I asked the guy about plumbers putty and he said it would dry up over time. Not sure if I can find the stuff your reffering to other than online but thats what im really looking for, some sort of putty that prevents leaks but doesnt dry so you can easily take it off and remove the screw fitting...

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They almost assuredly don't sell pipe dope at lowes or HD. Its a specialty plumbing product. It's an entirely different product for an entirely different application than plumbers putty. It accomplishes the same goal as Teflon tape, but it seals more threads, and again, as mentioned, it allows a watertight seal with the benefit of easily unscrewing the pipe. Ace sells it for sure, and you can probably find it on Amazon. Also FWIW: I've tried all kinds of different bulkheads and none compare to Spears. They're pricy, but you'll have them for life. Good luck homes