botanistprime
Active Member
I have the old cch2o system and the new 2019 model. And both have bigger "feeds" then returns. In fact it's 2" feed on both new and old, ¾" return on old system and 1“ return on new.Ummm, yes they do.
I have the old cch2o system and the new 2019 model. And both have bigger "feeds" then returns. In fact it's 2" feed on both new and old, ¾" return on old system and 1“ return on new.Ummm, yes they do.
Maybe I'm not visualizing things right based on the description.I have the old cch2o system and the new 2019 model. And both have bigger "feeds" then returns. In fact it's 2" feed on both new and old, ¾" return on old system and 1“ return on new.
He means sites connect with 2" but I'm pretty sure he means 3". And the return he's talking about is the line off the 3" Tee fitting that reduces to the 3/4-1" tubing running to the inline pump in front of the control res.Maybe I'm not visualizing things right based on the description.
My return lines at 1" and my supply lines are 1/2". Works great.
So do the bulkhead fittings.
Okay, got it.He means sites connect with 2" but I'm pretty sure he means 3". And the return he's talking about is the line off the 3" Tee fitting that reduces to the 3/4-1" tubing running to the inline pump in front of the control res.
View attachment 4275010
I keep it nice n cool myself.Okay, got it.
That's the kind of dipshit engineering that made me design my own RDWC from scratch, and I ended up with a system that uses less power, has far less than half the parts and not only doesn't need airstones and the pump to drive them but doesn't even need to be kept cool.
My plants grew faster when the water was warmer.I keep it nice n cool myself.
luh dem white roots.
You are 100% correct that the plants grow faster in warmer water. I run chillers as well though just to be safe. I would be devastated if I lost a whole harvest half way through due to root rot. On the flip side I'd love to not need chillers but have not tried it yet myself. Maybe one day I'll experiment with a small system and see if I can dial it in.My plants grew faster when the water was warmer.
The only reason to keep the water cold is to be a crutch for inadequate oxygenation and agitation. Well- it's great for hydro store profits- keeps you coming back to buy more shit!
If you waterfall each site, it is entirely pointless to use airstones and pumps.Wow, it's great to see this thread still alive! You guys shared a lot of awesome information! Went back and re-read the entire thread.
I will be moving out of my 4x8 so I have to redesign my system. Old containers will be too big to!
Can I get some of your guys' thoughts on this new design?
I was thinking of going with the 3" under current bulkheads. Will cost me about 16USD each, shipping and tax included.
Run a pump from my reservoir up to the top of my containers and waterfall. It's a 1000gph pump, or I will have to purchase another smaller pump? (I may run an air pump and one stone along that same line right into each container.)
The drawing isn't exactly to scale but it's fairly close.
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Yes on the end connection removal.My plants seem happy at 73F/23C with bennies. I bought a 1/4hp chiller and never even plugged it in. -.-
I'm presuming temps will stay around that with the new setup as well. If not I will have to add a closed loop and throw that into the reservoir where the A/c currently is. (have a wart brewer already to.) Then move the A/c somewhere else.
When you say lose the end connections, do you just mean the side that I have labelled in the diagram as, 3" pipe and 3" corner?
Going inline with the pump to keep water factors of raising water temps down.
Good point on the side entry for the waterfall. I heard or read somewhere in this thread it's better to have the waterfall closer to the net pot ? Also I really only need to open the lid when it's harvest time. But I might do the side entry.
AbsolutelyCould I just make it super simple and do something like this? (or maybe move the rez. a little to the left but keep everything else the same)
Less leak points. Save half the bulkheads.
View attachment 4276391
You can actually do that with the roots yeah. You can basically just tie them in a knot for lack of a better explanation. Just don't pull it tight obviously. Just make the loop.I run the 2" bulkheads in my ghetto UC system between totes and use a 1.5" on the pump feed side. What I found was that if I tucked the root mass under itself towards the upstream side of the tote, it never tried to grow back into the drain fitting. My system only runs 40 gals. and the 900gph pump keeps everything well mixed.
You'll be just fine with a 600GPS if you only have to feed 4 sites. 3/4" PVC works best for your manifold Theron the tees, or crosses, use a reducer and barbed threaded fitting.I was hoping to run two more things by you guys.
The new system is an 80Gal system. 16gal x4 containers (+1 16gal rez. same container type).
Purchasing my bulkheads now, going to go with the Current Culture.
1) I want to go 3" but am wondering if I can use 2" bulkheads for the return? (I found the bigger the hole the more it compromises the buckets integrity.) Or should a 3" be okay?
2) And for a pump to top-feed/waterfall with... will a 1000GPH (active aqua adjustable) water pump do? I keep reading mixed amounts for recalculations, some say 2-4 some say 10 per hour. If I wanted to not use air pumps and just waterfall only. That 1000GPH should be more than enough right? (Could I get away with a 600GPH pump?)
2" is more than enough. I was using 1" black vinyl before and that was my problem. So I went to 2" which is 4X the room for water to flow through and now you can't even tell the pump is on when you look at the res.I wasn't as much worried about roots going in the 2" bulkhead. I find even one airstone, and the roots will wrap around the stone and stay away from the bulkheads/pipes. But your loop the roots in a circle would work well too!
My main concern was, will the water return into the res and level out with 2"bulkhead, or will the 1000GPH pump empty the res before the water can relieved?