DOG Kush LED Grow Journal

bassman999

Well-Known Member
Hey Budbro looking nice in there, wont be long till they are ready to top.

Jig I am having low temps as well, and have added a heater to my garage grow
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Thanks Bass! I took all the tape and plastic wrap off the heat vent in the room. First time in about 2 or 3 years since ive been able to allow air to come through there. In the summer i use it as my exhaust by piping my carbon filter ducting through the vent and taping it up real good. Ill probably do the same for summer if i dont get any co2 to run by then but im hoping i can.

Been lookin at the enhancer and if what they claim is true it would be awesome for like a week 3-5 or 4-6 addition.

Anyone else use co2 and notice after you switched when the biggest difference in growth takes place? They only last for 2 weeks but are supposed to hit around 8-1200 ppm in a 12x12 and my room is just a little smaller than that. So theyre a selective thing because if you were runnin constantly like most people do youd be spendin 80 bucks a month and it would be more affordable to just get a cylinder/burner at that rate.

The other thing i like is not having to buy a co2 controller. Im going to get a little monitor for 20 bucks or so to hang in the tent it will be in but im glad i wont have to drop a bunch of money on a sensor/controller/regulator.

I want to start using some sort of co2 in my room but dont have all the money together to get everything to run it good. And i dont want to run it on a timer and end up over doin it or under doin it and wasting time. I really only want to run it between 800 and 1000ppm just so i can still run in there and do everything i need to real quick without dying or passing out.

But thats for the future.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Yeah its supposed to help alot. On top of more growth, you get a buffer zone kind of. Your temps can get up into the 90s with no adverse effects, it cuts down on the chance of alot of pests/mold because of the lack of O2.

And for people who either have limited intake capabilities its a little easier to run co2 than to bust a hole in a closet door or in a wall or ceiling just to get fresh air in.


Should have some pictures/video up later today.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Here are all of the DOGs.

veg1.jpg
alldogs1.jpg

The one in the middle is still showing that discoloration so i have given them just water the past few days before starting nutes again. Really strange only the one has any problems and the other are just about the deepest green ive seen. Not sure if its the LEDs or the genetics cause the chem/sour/headband/og genetics tend to have those really dark forest green leaves that get real waxy lookin.


This is the sad DOG thats hurtin. Its one of the 3 that arent mutants. Anyone got any idea on the culprit?? Looks like some cal or mag issues but may be P related. My pHing has been spot on ive been extra careful with these ones since im lookin for a mother and want to let all of them reach their full potential. Might have to switch over to the Dyna Gro BLOOM sooner than planned, but all the other ones are nice and green.
DOG hurt1.jpgDOG hurt2.jpg


Heres another one of the 3 non mutant ones.
2 pictures since the second one got a little washed out by the flash.
DOG normal1.jpgDOG normal1-2.jpg
Cant get much more green than that. Nice fat indica dom hybrid leaves.



And the last of the 3 normal ones.
Skinnier leaves like the first one.
DOG normal2.jpg



Now onto the mutants.

First is the internoded one that grew 2 regular nodes, 2 alternating nodes, and not is workin on another regular node.
DOG inter1.jpg


My all time favorite of the bunch is this one.
She self topped herself and is now growing and looking like i LSTd her.
DOG topped1.jpgDOG topped2.jpg
But i didnt. The outter branches are just the lowest 2 nodes then theres one more node than the self topped section growing 2 branches out of the new top.


All of the DOGs got topped except that one for obvious reasons.

Now onto the flower tent.

2x 305w BUD BOSS panels from grow evolution
in my 4'x4' tent
with 9x 2gallon HTG smart pots.

Flower1.jpgFlower2.jpg



Lights ON!

Flower3.jpgFlower4.jpg


All of the pots
Flower5.jpgFlower6.jpg

The wiring/hanging situation.
Had to throw the timer in the tent because i cant find a daisy chain cord for the LEDs
Anyone know the name of that cord thats used for that?? Its a weird ass connection.
Flower7.jpg

I have a yoyo locked into place on the back side of each panel holding up the back and in front i have a ratchet hanger on each side so i can easily move it up and down as needed.

Thats it for now, should have a video up in a few days.
 

jigfresh

Well-Known Member
It's just a regular plug... it looks weird because it can take international versions of plugs as well. It just uses the plugs that came with the thing... try and plug it in... it works lol.
 

MedScientist

Well-Known Member
Even though you are ontop of the ph... the Plants are asking for a little lower ph to have access to Calcium. Many people add more which can lockout other things, so I am of the adjust ph 1st before adding more kind of Guy.

The plugs work good with standard cords like Jiggy says, I am using them for better cord management! WooHoo!

My plants EXPLODED this week!



Peace
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Thanks JIG and MED!!! I didnt even realize it but thats why the plug looks so damn crazy cause its 2 plugs stacked onto one hahaha ill be switching that up ASAP

And i agree MED. Thats why i always give plain water for a few days after any signs of potential def/tox/lockout. If symptoms persist i know for sure im not over doing it, but like you said the ph is for sure effecting it and i can just drop it after adding nutes, or for that matter, just not raise it back up after adding nutes. My tap water after sitting out for 24+ hours sits around 7 maybe 7.3 i check once a month or so usually when i calibrate my ph meter. After nutes it drops to about 5.5-6 so i havent been adding much of anything lately for pHing and if i do its a little pH up.

I like to keep my ph of my veg nutes around 6 but ill probably drop them to 5.5 maybe 5.8 for a few days see if thatll help. Most of my plants didnt mind the 5.8-6.0 ph in veg but ive heard the diesel/chem lineage is very cal-mag thirsty especially in flower.

So maybe its just the plant that likes a more acidic water/soil so thats why its throwin off the symptoms haha it all ties into the original genetics and traits passed on. That would explain why the leaves get so dark green and waxy almost like theyre overdosing on N since its absorbed better at the lower pH as well. Just some random thoughts that have no actual backing other than my very very basic understanding of chemistry/ (failed in highschool but drugs/growing taught me more than that class ever could)

The second theyre fully dried out ill be dosing em with regular amounts of nutes that i gave them last time with a small amount of cal/mag+ adjusted to a lower pH.
 

supchaka

Well-Known Member
What I like to do is intentionally vary my ph a little bit. If 5.8 is my ideal I'll purposely water sometimes +- .3 so down to 5.5 or up to 6.1. That way the plant gets to float around a different range a bit. For whatever strange reason I won't add PH up, instead I'll lessen my nutrients to not dip below the desired PH I'm wanting in the first place.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
I got a free sample of an organic phup/calcium thing you add in veg and before flowering to help keep the ph of the medium from getting too acidic. Thats what ill use to raise my ph if needed. Just a drop will raise it from the usual 5.5 to 5.8 or 6.0. depending on the amount of nutes ive added.

I start with a lower ph and slowly raise it after 2 weeks of flowering so more p and k are accessible. Alot of times ill water with snowstorm around 7 and my base nutes around 6.

But thats a good idea varying the ph from watering to watering. Im gonna have to try that out. Seems like it would work since the lower ph would make any unused/locked out nutrients in that range easier for the plant to obtain.

I dont run hydro so my ph doesnt fluctuate. My medium ph probably does but thats what the phup/calcium thing is for. I usually make enough nute solution for how much they need watering that day so it doesnt sit around changing either.

Thanks for the help guys!!!
 

supchaka

Well-Known Member
I thought you were in a hydro medium for some reason. Same concept though, but I'll float around 6.8 instead.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
I use promix which is "technically" soilless so it can be used as a hydro medium "technically" *finger quotes* hahaha

Ive been wanting to switch to coco cause a friend uses it and says he gets some faster and bigger growth out of it and if you have a nice mix of pith and fibers it holds a good amount of water. But no luck this go around. Couldnt afford to fuck up these mommas. Once i get the first round of clones though i might put 1 of each in coco and 1 of each in perlite and do a side by side test taking into account ease of feeding, nute issues, fixing those issues, amount of watering vs the added growth that is obtained.

What you guys run in?? I know most of you are hydro of some sort
 

stvnfoster42

Well-Known Member
canna terra profesional here.i add 10-15% more perlite as it likes to hold moisture longer.waterings every 2-3 days.never tried any other medium but my friwnd has tremendous results off coco
 
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