does ph matter when flushing?

ryan1918

ryan1918

Well-Known Member
Got any sources to back this up like same grows of doing it vs not doing it?

Dr. Who said:
THE NEVER ENDING PARADE OF TOILETS HEADS!

Final flushing does nothing but remove nutrition from your plant at one of the most critical times!

Can you think of anything we humans consume that gets flushed or starved before harvest? NOPE! NONE, NADA, ZIP!

The point being is that a PROPER dry and cure IS what makes that "taste and burn" difference!

From a science aspect. Flushing removes NOTHING from the plant! Hydro, soil - what ever style you run,,,,flushing doesn't work!

As far as any "flush" (leeching) of soil's go (and I do mean SOIL). It's not the smartest way to handle an overage problem.

The thing here is that your pH is now most likely screwed by the build up anyway. Dumping x times the pot size in water through it to leech out your problem can and does cause other pH problems by keeping the soil to low in pH (most likely already is) and giving you the fast Ca, Mg and P lockout from it.

Over decades of soil growing. I found it the fastest and most efficient plant recovery from overage's to be to simply WATER them out with PLAIN water pHed to 6.7 for 7 - 10 days and restart feeding with a proper nutrient ratio or mix.
You may add a Ca/Mg if you are getting that Ca/Mg lockout from the screwed pH.
Once you have hit 7 days I personally like to water with a simple bio tea for putting back the soils bio's......Synthetic's don't KILL the bio's but they do spank them real hard. the use of a bio tea or some form of myco's are a real good idea with any soil run.

Good Luck and don't "flush"!
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dazzyballz

dazzyballz

Well-Known Member
Reeny said:
I agree with the previous poster simpson. I make sure my water is within my desired PH range. It helps prevent nute lock out and also prevents any issues from fluctuating PH. If your not using nutes for 2 weeks and just watering it is important to make sure your wanter does not create any issues, and you plants continue to use the nutes it has stored.
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For what its worth you may aswell p.h after the months of doing it why change at the end!
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
ryan1918 said:
Got any sources to back this up like same grows of doing it vs not doing it?
Click to expand...
Here's a simple one from fight here!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

Shift your search engine from google to yelp (google is now geared all to posting paid or supported answers first and ignores the core of your search parameters as in giving accurate or actual quality results) and start searching about the science for yourself.

The other thing would be I've done this for decades and figured this out a long time ago.

I can still see the picture in my mind of the two hippies sitting on a hill hacking and coughing. Smoking a phatty that was from just dried for 4-5 day weed ("It's dry right?" said one to the other)!
One turns to the other and says. "You know we have to do something about how harsh this is. Maybe improve the taste too. Hmm, good shit though, I'm really blunt". Say's the other.
"Eureka! I got it....We stop giving it nutes about say 5-7 days before we harvest. It's got to be those harsh nutes, right?" "Well maybe if we do it for 2 or more weeks. Because the plant takes at least that 5-7 days to begin to show a difference in feeding. That way they'll be really "flushed" out". Say's the second hippie. "YEAH! that's it! We'll call it "flushing" too!" Replies the first......"Boy I bet this will REALLY catch on!"
 
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getdown76

getdown76

Well-Known Member
simpsonsampson420 said:
i somewhat disagree.. the idea of flushing with plain water with no nutes is to allow the plant to use the rest of the nutes in the soil and to rinse out salt build ups... if you use water that isnt ph'd the plant could lock out some of the nutes in the soil and not be able to use some of the nutes it has already absorbed... which would cause a slightly harsh smoke... now im in no way saying its as bad as if the plant hasnt gotten flushed at all.. im just saying, imho it ensures that all the nutes in the soil and the plant get used up.. plus it only take a few extra minutes to ph your water.. my water has a high ph as it is so i am just in the habit of always lowering the ph anyways... in the end it probably doesnt make enough of a difference to really matter tho...
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I slightly dissagree with this for the simple fact, if you are flushing your goal is to wash out all salts and to stop nutrient up take, correct? Therefore, if you flush with any ph water you will be fine because if it is too high it will lock out ALL nutes which is your goal. The reason for flushing is so the plants will start feeding off of itself to survive, hence the sweet taste of flushed marijuana, The least amounts nutrient in the plant the better it will taste and if it is consuming itself then that means it is only taking water from the roots.
 
theslipperbandit

theslipperbandit

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
THE NEVER ENDING PARADE OF TOILETS HEADS!

Final flushing does nothing but remove nutrition from your plant at one of the most critical times!

Can you think of anything we humans consume that gets flushed or starved before harvest? NOPE! NONE, NADA, ZIP!

The point being is that a PROPER dry and cure IS what makes that "taste and burn" difference!

From a science aspect. Flushing removes NOTHING from the plant! Hydro, soil - what ever style you run,,,,flushing doesn't work!

As far as any "flush" (leeching) of soil's go (and I do mean SOIL). It's not the smartest way to handle an overage problem.

The thing here is that your pH is now most likely screwed by the build up anyway. Dumping x times the pot size in water through it to leech out your problem can and does cause other pH problems by keeping the soil to low in pH (most likely already is) and giving you the fast Ca, Mg and P lockout from it.

Over decades of soil growing. I found it the fastest and most efficient plant recovery from overage's to be to simply WATER them out with PLAIN water pHed to 6.7 for 7 - 10 days and restart feeding with a proper nutrient ratio or mix.
You may add a Ca/Mg if you are getting that Ca/Mg lockout from the screwed pH.
Once you have hit 7 days I personally like to water with a simple bio tea for putting back the soils bio's......Synthetic's don't KILL the bio's but they do spank them real hard. the use of a bio tea or some form of myco's are a real good idea with any soil run.

Good Luck and don't "flush"!
Click to expand...
I don't even argue with em anymore man its fucking never ending
 
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