Do you like to experiment -and how did it go ?

Do you have that curious mind like me and many others? Every wounder what if ....and did it?
I know sometimes you just have to find out for yourself. lol
It would be cool to see if others have done the same thing. Its not a right or wrong...you dip shit thing. more HOW DID IT GO?

Maybe:
Stressing the plant to see if more resign developed...since resign is the security of the plant
maybe adding UVB at certain times to help
Flushing or NOT flushing.... and the time difference it might take to cure dense buds,,,indica,,,sativa
Soil with air stones or air bubblers
different amounts of food at different times with different strains
Grafting anything to anything
The list goes on.

Hope to hear some wild test and how they went.

I'm doing a clone off right now in my grow journal.

Nice curious2garden
hows the turocloner going? To bad about the sativas How much of a cross you can take?
Hope u get the T5's fast but you can still do a few things while in veg. Are you doing anything with them while you are waiting?
Love the lime tree lol has that been growing under the same system with the MMJ?
Lime trees are kind of hard to work with due to the acidity lol

curious2garden said:

I'm doing a clone off right now in my grow journal.

Click to expand...

oh yeah? whats the comp? fastest to root?


im growing in 100% straw as a media.(good results)

i add UVB(great results)

done every light situation and schedule you can think of, so ask away.(including 24 hours flower with photo plants, sativa plants do better under blue light vs. red light in flower)

hmmm too many experiments to list.

flushing is a science pretty basic once you do the research but in essence its tool for the container Gardner that should only be used as necessary, and depending on your nutes that would change its necessity.

ive also played around with a fair amount of organic sources of PGRs to some degree.

and some attempts at DIY tissue culturing(fails)

dbdweller said:

Nice curious2garden
hows the turocloner going? To bad about the sativas How much of a cross you can take?
Hope u get the T5's fast but you can still do a few things while in veg. Are you doing anything with them while you are waiting?
Love the lime tree lol has that been growing under the same system with the MMJ?
Lime trees are kind of hard to work with due to the acidity lol

Click to expand...

My T5's are here and working well. I moved the seedlings out they are under a T5 but they can go back as soon as the clone off is done. Currently the Turbokloner is working nicely. I prefer it because I don't have to put as much water in it and can move it when it's loaded. Best of all the top housing holds the clones to make it easy to work on the reservoir (which I need to go up and do!).

Yes my Kaffir lime is in my flower room. But my flower room is doing veg until the clone off is finished. I've had a Kaffir lime for over 20 years now. This one is about 5 years old. When we first moved to the Mojave I couldn't get her inside (she was so large) and she froze, made me so upset.

polyarcturus said:

oh yeah? whats the comp? fastest to root?


im growing in 100% straw as a media.(good results)

i add UVB(great results)

done every light situation and schedule you can think of, so ask away.(including 24 hours flower with photo plants, sativa plants do better under blue light vs. red light in flower)

hmmm too many experiments to list.

flushing is a science pretty basic once you do the research but in essence its tool for the container Gardner that should only be used as necessary, and depending on your nutes that would change its necessity.

ive also played around with a fair amount of organic sources of PGRs to some degree.

and some attempts at DIY tissue culturing(fails)

Click to expand...

Yup it's fastest/easiest or most rooting. Currently I'm sold on my TK even if it doesn't root faster because it's so much easier to load up and work with.

Straw as a medium eh? Interesting. I'm really interested in tissue culture but I'm such a newbie it's not even something I've done much (any) research on because I have so many other basic things I need to get better at LOL. Do you have a journal? I'd love to read some of your experiments.
Thanks,

yep its in my signature below my posts as well as the straw experiment thread. well id join in the comp, but i dont feel the urge to get we setting up an aero systme or i would have a crack at getting roots in 2 days again, im in bubble cloners now and haha, that shit takes 2 weeks sometimes.

tissue culturing isnt as difficult as one would think its just a matter of understanding what all it entails and knowing the process i will be culturing again soon with success since my experience in mycology has taught me alot!

Kool

So what did you find different on the Sativas between red and blue light? Did the stalks harden more or less and what did you notice that lead you another way?

So do you like or dislike the PGR's

What happen with the DIY Culture? Sounds like you got turned off by it?

you dont need hormones to culture in fact i would avoid it completely and treat it more like sterile cloning. the issue with my DIY culture is that plants arent the best decomposers so organic cultures aren't really possibly and if you do go about it this (sourcing all ingredient from organic sources) you will more than likely get contamination. DIY synthetic cultures are possible, but its still a lot of work, the sad truth is its really cheap to just order the stuff in line in a pre-made mix. or even the separate ingredients, it just gets expensive when you want pgrs and stuff.

im not really turned off to it, but its just a hobby thing i want to try and not on my priority list, so im not really willing to spend to 100$(probably less honestly) i need to get it started.


PGR are very useful during the growth cycle of a plant tho there are some i would avoid and i would not mess with non organic sourced PGRS for the most part because the possible negatives outweighs the positives.

sativas would grow more naturally, less stretch, thicker stalk tighter nodes, more flowers and foliage just an all around improvement on health and happiness.

Heres the start of a new project pics to come. If anyone has any imput i would love to hear..maybe something i can try:

The grow is in Farm Fox organic soil ,ocean w/worm castings . Coco shreds and fibers mixed with Bat guano . This set up will be open no walls

10x10oom. A/C blowing @72 Lights MH/ 400wat with 2 T-5 2700 1 blue spectrum on one side and 1 red on the other side with higher UVB light going on off on the 1 side of the Blue spec.

I believe that:
The outer wall of the grow will be cold of course. The lights (might not be enough) will keep the interior of the grow warm with a very low himidity. I think this will keep the plant in the grow stage instead of stunted. It will want to protect it'sself by making more resign and thincking the stalk and branches.
The MH with blue spec and UVB side will become vesy dense.. I might not even need the UVB because of the cold stress being applied... thats why the red side does not have it.

By the way the strains are...gdp..humbodlt...nl.

The red spectrum side to me is wide open.. i am not sure whats going to happen..... i guess by that statement i am not sure whats going to happen at all lol
I like to experiment and have some extra time lol

polyarcturus said:

you dont need hormones to culture in fact i would avoid it completely and treat it more like sterile cloning. the issue with my DIY culture is that plants arent the best decomposers so organic cultures aren't really possibly and if you do go about it this (sourcing all ingredient from organic sources) you will more than likely get contamination. DIY synthetic cultures are possible, but its still a lot of work, the sad truth is its really cheap to just order the stuff in line in a pre-made mix. or even the separate ingredients, it just gets expensive when you want pgrs and stuff.

im not really turned off to it, but its just a hobby thing i want to try and not on my priority list, so im not really willing to spend to 100$(probably less honestly) i need to get it started.


PGR are very useful during the growth cycle of a plant tho there are some i would avoid and i would not mess with non organic sourced PGRS for the most part because the possible negatives outweighs the positives.

sativas would grow more naturally, less stretch, thicker stalk tighter nodes, more flowers and foliage just an all around improvement on health and happiness.

Click to expand...

I do find its easier to order too. I just add what i need after when i can test everything.

I am not a big PGR man. Grew up growing without it... it does maximize everything but the aftermath bothers me.. to me and the envirmoment in the big grows when they do not pay attention or care.

dbdweller said:

Heres the start of a new project pics to come. If anyone has any imput i would love to hear..maybe something i can try:

The grow is in Farm Fox organic soil ,ocean w/worm castings . Coco shreds and fibers mixed with Bat guano . This set up will be open no walls

10x10oom. A/C blowing @72 Lights MH/ 400wat with 2 T-5 2700 1 blue spectrum on one side and 1 red on the other side with higher UVB light going on off on the 1 side of the Blue spec.

I believe that:
The outer wall of the grow will be cold of course. The lights (might not be enough) will keep the interior of the grow warm with a very low himidity. I think this will keep the plant in the grow stage instead of stunted. It will want to protect it'sself by making more resign and thincking the stalk and branches.
The MH with blue spec and UVB side will become vesy dense.. I might not even need the UVB because of the cold stress being applied... thats why the red side does not have it.

By the way the strains are...gdp..humbodlt...nl.

The red spectrum side to me is wide open.. i am not sure whats going to happen..... i guess by that statement i am not sure whats going to happen at all lol
I like to experiment and have some extra time lol

Click to expand...

cant really picture it in my head, a little bit but not exactly what you mean, like the left half will have a further red spectrum and the right hlaf a blue spectrum. hmmm interesting, x1 400w for a 10x10? that wont work too well and you wont need the ac for that

I know 400 is way to lite.. I am very curious to see how the outer wall is compared to the inside. I also believe the blue Spec brings the nobes closer together..and i have a reg house cfl 26w 2700k in there too. lol
I do know its very hard to picture and i plan on getting pics soon
I have this theory about how resign protects the plant.. how resign gets a priority over all else to make this so call shell. I think there is a fine line.
i am not a scientist lol so i do the trial and error thing and try to listen to what i read.

any thoughts

ive read an article about a guy who used a strobe light to try and stress the plant for more RESIN (instead of a normal photoperiod) > but it didnt work, and caused some herm problems.

In my opinion.. the best production you are going to get off any given plant will occur when you drop the temperature about 2 weeks into flower, they'll start;

1] changing colors, blue/purple if their genetics allow
2] bulking up, because they sense that winter is coming sooner than expected
3] possibly finish faster, for the same reason as above
4] produce better smelling flowers - (all susceptible to the given plants genetics of course)

50 deg F is my favorite for lights out.. getting any cooler than this during the photoperiod (lights on) will slow respiration, but since respiration doesnt occur during the night, it will be OK for them at lights off.. and it will still trigger senescence at a higher rate.
55-60 deg F during lights on is my ideal temperature - from 2 weeks 12/12 til finish.

My experiment was intense super cropping during first three weeks of flowering. No hermaphroditism.. Regular seeds.. Did SC all the way from veg till 3 weeks into flowering... my test is over... Branches are becoming less soft tissue and more woody...

TheGreenHornet said:

In my opinion.. the best production you are going to get off any given plant will occur when you drop the temperature about 2 weeks into flower, they'll start;

1] changing colors, blue/purple if their genetics allow
2] bulking up, because they sense that winter is coming sooner than expected
3] possibly finish faster, for the same reason as above
4] produce better smelling flowers - (all susceptible to the given plants genetics of course)

50 deg F is my favorite for lights out.. getting any cooler than this during the photoperiod (lights on) will slow respiration, but since respiration doesnt occur during the night, it will be OK for them at lights off.. and it will still trigger senescence at a higher rate.
55-60 deg F during lights on is my ideal temperature - from 2 weeks 12/12 til finish.

Click to expand...

That sounds really interesting to me. Have you written a guide or anything on that technique?

thanks man. i didnt ever finish my last grow thread because i told myself and all my RIU buddies that i wouldnt be coming back.. and now a month and a half later here i am...

but if you want to see some of the results (up til week 7 or so) of my technique last grow - https://www.rollitup.org/indoor-growing/558627-jackberry-grow-9.html - or JackBerry Grow - by moi. obviously, it exponentially cheaper and easier to do this during winter months, but if you want to save on the power bill and you're doing a summer grow indoors, just wait until the last 2 weeks, (might even be able to get away with 1) and then drop that shit down to like 60 deg, they'll love it.

also, i will tell you that the last week and a half or so, which is unrecorded in my thread, the flowers bulked up waayy more than I thought they would.. and showed some dark dark blues and stuff that i wasnt expecting at all...that extra week makes a hell of a difference..

Awesome man. You wanna know something funny? I have jackberry and chuckys bride right now in my veg room ready to go to the flower room in a week or two (as soon as the rest of my crop there finishes). But anyways this last crop I let my temps drop lower then normal and noticed what you mentioned. Wondering now if a portable ac is in my immediate future. If anything I think I will do some testing next winter's grow.

cold temps are great!(i love winter growing where im at, my temps aree around 50-60 at night too.) but if you dont have access depending on how you grow you can achieve a similar effect by watering with cold water at lights out, and adding ice to hydro res at nights.

akula said:

Awesome man. You wanna know something funny? I have jackberry and chuckys bride right now in my veg room ready to go to the flower room in a week or two (as soon as the rest of my crop there finishes). But anyways this last crop I let my temps drop lower then normal and noticed what you mentioned. Wondering now if a portable ac is in my immediate future. If anything I think I will do some testing next winter's grow.

Click to expand...

noice.. dude JackBerry is awesome.. but it is truly a hybrid, and what i mean by that is you have to hunt for the "DJ Short BlueBerry" indica pheno.. it doesnt pop up all the time. 3/4 of my jackberries were Jack dominant. They produced huge buds, and really benefited from going another week or so at the end of flower due to their sativa dominance.. and did (at the very very end) show some of those colors i was talking about.. however.. im smoking them now and they're giving me more sativa like high.. which makes me paranoid..
The one "True Blue" pheno I selected for my mother and subsequent generation is amazing.. super skunky, cheezy, overpowering funk/berry smell - goes blue early in flower (not purple, blue). and this one, ("George Bush" I call it), gives me the chillest high ever.. just giggly and stupid, and makes me hungry and sleepy. - DJ Short Blueberry all the way.

polyarcturus said:

cold temps are great!(i love winter growing where im at, my temps aree around 50-60 at night too.) but if you dont have access depending on how you grow you can achieve a similar effect by watering with cold water at lights out, and adding ice to hydro res at nights.

Click to expand...

ya mon... i love it. i actually originally started dropping the temp earlier than i planned because i grow DWC, and my reservoir temps were getting into the upper 70's, and even lower 80's. i use high output air pumps to kill any algae and counteract the effect of high res temps, but in the end the plants still prefer lower res temps, so I dropped the temp - then a cold front hit, and I just went with it.. so the back half of veg and all of flower was around 50 F, same as you, and they loved it.

my lastest experiment was with Csilver spray and it woked out nicely