do these plants look ok? few concerns

ok so here are a few pics of plants i had a few concerns about..
first off
setup is diy aeroponics
under 3 4' floros all have 1 bulb 6500k 1 bulb 2700k
ph has been at around 5.8 use drip test so not 100%
had an aquarium heater plugged in cus its been cold (just unpluged today wasent sure if it was causing root yellowing or not.. )
using pure pro blend grow/liquid karma/ calmag
ppm is now 780 was at around 400-500
light are 20/4
water pump is on at all times

*concerns
just checked everything have been away for 2 days but when i came back to check all the new growth on a few of the plants seems to be a really lime green/yellow dunno that this is normal my nutes were low around 400/450 so i boosted em up to 700 now hopefully this wasent a horrible decision..
was thinking this might b a mangnesium issue but not sure..

next my roots seem to be turing a light yellowish brown i dunno if this is due to light or nutes or rot or normal... n e help would be great..
i spraypainted the top of my toat like 4 times so i dont think their should be much light getting in..

Anyone? ?

Your water temperatures shouldn't be above 70 or so or you can get root rot.

Your nutrient solution seems too high for that stage of life as well.

They look good if you are growing albino weed. Cold water is not a problem, I've done DWC in 50 degree or less water and they love it. No need for a heater.

I would say calibrate your ph meter, add some calmag or epson salt.

A few more of the strongest 2700k cfl's u can find

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Just curious why 2700, would 6500 not be better for starting and veg???

So add calmag and reduce ppm? I can add some water i just used the calmag and grow 2 boost 2 700

700 is WAY too high for plants at that age. I'm actually surprised that you don't have rams horns or burnt tips. At any rate, that high of a concentration will stunt root growth.
Reduce PPM, ditch the heater, and let the PH float around between 5.5 and 6.4 to ensure a broad uptake range.

Its only been at 700 for like 2 days now but they arent showing sighns of burning. A few actually perked back up would u still lower ? I think it might b my tap water that was causing the yellowing i brought the ppm up from 450/500 too 700 with mostly cal mag dunno that it makes a difference. The ppm of my tap water isent consistent and i dident bother 2 check it. last night just plain tap water mesured 395 ppm the a few days prior it was only at 227.. gunna buy some drinking wat
er tonight.from the.store. if u guys thimnk.i.should still change it. hope this isent overly confusing using my phone cant c what I'm typin

whats an ideal ppm 450/500 for this stage?? Thanks in advance

I just started my first DIY hydro also. The yellowing could be due to a bit to much nitrogen or root rot from water temperature. Heater is no good I'd invest in a dif location to grow if you need a heater for the hydro. I'd flush your system take the plants out and sit them in a 50/50 mix of water and hydrogen pro oxide and scrub your Rubbermaid down clean it good and remix your water for your hydro with a bit of hydrogen pro oxide as well. This will ensure you have fresh water along with all bacteria dead. The peroxide will help restore your plants from root rot. They aren't bad off yet. Return your plants after you've refilled your reservoir. Let them bubble a few days until color has returned and repeat same steps except add your nutrients back in. Hydrogen pro oxide is always good to have in your mix. It won't hurt your plant and it kills bacteria and keeps it out. Also do a little research on what it can do for root rot. Hope this helps man. Mine are 2 weeks and are super healthy and I don't even have a ph tester . They are already 5 to 6 ". It'll be here tommorow though. Good luck

Dude, don't start interjecting shit and "advice" when you don't know what the hell your talking about. Not to be a dick... but seriously.

Anyways.. FFR when stating your nutrient PPM's state the ACTUAL nutrient PPMs. So in your case you would subtract 395 or whatever your tap water is from the number shown on your PPM meter. So in your case, your actually running around 300 ppms. You could serve to kick that up to about 5-600 and not have a problem. Standard Calmag would be 5ml/gallon. Add that first, then add the rest of your base nutrients till you reach 500-600 PPM.

On a side note, your tap water PPM is extremely high and this may cause problems when it comes time to flowering. If you can afford it, you should really really get an RO filter.

hydrogen pro oxide? Now THAT is some funny shit!! PEROXIDE two oxygen molecules held together by a single bond.

I used a bit of peroxide throughout only 3% but i used about a bottle for 15gal. done this twice.. dont think its rot. ive got a shower curtain clear part liner whatever hot glued 2 prevent leaks and it shows no sighn of algea or anything water is clear smells fine. i bought 10 gal of water am going 2 drain clean peroxide and run with just 10 gal spring water and 4-5 gal of my tap for a day or 2 then add nutes again..

Could i save the water in my res for a week or 2 in gal water containers for a soil grow?

@ Legallyflying my ppm from tap changes due 2 stuff shifting in my well it was at 200 something then a week later at 400 my ? 2 U is when adding nutes 2 res ur saying take regular tap ppm reading as a base number then add nutes. so now my ppm is 400 200 tap 200 nutes you would disregard the base reading of tap water?
do you think the roots are ok?

Yeah. Don't say your PPM is 400. It's actually 200 in terms of nutrient rates. I didn't see a picture of the roots but unless they are dark or covered in what looks like snot and brown shit, I think you just need to bump up your nutrient concentrations.

Ok so i started off with spring water ppm of 250 and boosted up to 550 with nutes so 300ppm of nutes this a good range for the age/size?

Standard Calmag would be 5ml/gallon. Add that first, then add the rest of your base nutrients till you reach 500-600 PPM.

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I'm new to Hydro as well but would it not be best with water being that hard, to have it tested (cheap)? What if his water make up was mostly calcium and he added more would this be harmful? I only ask as I have hard water as well but high in calcium. Also I do add the base number to get total TDS but due to shit water I religously refill every 2 weeks. Also not sure if this is relevent to the issue but my PH levels are real high out of tap and trying to use strips and drops was a lost cause, I got a meter.

Yeah, that is the issue with high PPM tap. You don't know what the hell is in the water to start with. I worked on a project a little while back with the water department where we were working to get people off of well water and on to the city system. The were located over a portion of the aquifer that flowed over basalt rock. This leached cyanide into their water supply! Yet...some of the people didn't want to pay the extra $45 a month for 5 years to get on city water. "Ummm, sir, you and your family are drinking rat poison at 10 times over the "safe" exposure limits. "well I dont know nothing about all that, we feel fine". I think it was at that point that I was convinced that there are some very very stupid people in the world.

Problem with that is I'm way out in the middle of no where. no town/city water and the water that is supplied to the nearest town is now packed full offlouride. dunno the effects of that on plants but know it can b harmful to humans

I would go to the store and buy a bunch of gallons of bottled water, or if you know someone on a municipal water line fill up some containers from them,because it seems like you are having some serious nutrient lockout. That yellowing looks like severe nitrogen deficiency.

As was mentioned, and I am doing it also. Get a RO filter which will remove all hardness from water. then u can add cal-mag lol. If I tried to do it with bottled water I'd go mad topping and refilling!

It would be advantageous to know exactly what is in your water before making a choice as to how to factor in background EC-PPM. You may find your background EC-PPM is primarily Calcium and Magnesium if you get your water from a municipal source. Also, A calcium ppm of over 200 or Magnesium ppm of 75ppm could hurt your shit. Many municipal water supplies backgrounds are in excess of 500 ppm.
Some people factor in background EC, some people don't, some people cut it in half, and then factor it in. It's personal preference, but should depend on what's in your water. There is no one correct way of factoring in background EC-PPM that will work for everyone without knowing what's in your/their water.

That's definitely a Magnesium deficiency, but what is causing it? Too much calcium will lock out magnesium. Ph could be off. You could just not have enough magnesium. I would guess ph lockout, or too much calcium.

Peace.
Tav