DIY with Quantum Boards

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
So if I went DIY, I'd like to have 8 QB 304's ran at around 100 watts each for 800~ Watts total, whats the best way to wire this setup? Parallel 4 with HLG-480H-24?
You'd wanna use 2 hlg-320h-54a's. Get about 750watts with those.
Unless you wanna spend the extra for two 480's and have 1000w at your disposal.
 

DonnyDee

Well-Known Member
*Reaches for wallet*... When - where do I click buy? Lol.

This just made my holidays if there's gonna be a discount. Will being signed up at the website notify us of when this discount is gonna take place?
Oh damn I don't need this temptation in my life
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
Why would anyone even use304's? So limiting for 18 more diodes?
After using 304 boards myself, I completely agree with this statement!
The exception to this is if you have the ability to supply your drivers with 220v.
Running on 110v outlets, the 304 boards dont give you many options to run them. HLG-320H-2800 is the only HLG driver that will run 2 304 boards at their max rated 1400ma on a 110v outlet. The best way I found to run them on a 110v outlet is 2x 304 board per 240-C2100 or 320-C2800.

To run 4 304s what driver would I need to achieve around 400 watts and should I run series or parallel?
The answer to this question completely depends on if you can get 220v to your drivers. But i would just run 4 boards on 2x 240-C2100s in parallel

Check out my discussion post about my lighting upgrade and the 304 board guide the HLG put out.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/need-more-light-but-how-should-i-do-it.981690/
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/pages/board-guide
 

pop22

Well-Known Member
You can't use the 320H-54, its only 54 volts, the QB 304 requires over 100 volts. The best option if he wants 100 watts per board would a pair of 480H-C3500 a or b, running 4 in parallel on each. I run 4 on an HLG320H-C2800b and get about 85 watts per board, so the b models can go over rated output also, wall draw is 362 watts. A pair of these would actually be what I'd recommend that would give him a shit ton of light at a 725 watt draw

You'd wanna use 2 hlg-320h-54a's. Get about 750watts with those.
Unless you wanna spend the extra for two 480's and have 1000w at your disposal.
 

fragileassassin

Well-Known Member
You can't use the 320H-54, its only 54 volts, the QB 304 requires over 100 volts. The best option if he wants 100 watts per board would a pair of 480H-C3500 a or b, running 4 in parallel on each. I run 4 on an HLG320H-C2800b and get about 85 watts per board, so the b models can go over rated output also, wall draw is 362 watts. A pair of these would actually be what I'd recommend that would give him a shit ton of light at a 725 watt draw
Thats what i currently have. 4 set of 4 304 boards on 320-2800s. Im going to be adding 8 288s and some more drivers to the mix soon. Going to drop down to 3x 304s per 320-2800 and get 2 240-2100s to run the 4 boards I pull off current setups.
All 4 of my 320s are pulling 318w at the outlet.
 

pop22

Well-Known Member

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
The hot spot appears to be at the - terminal. Did the - wire insulation melt too? Resistance must have gone up due to who-knows-what. Maybe corrosion from the environment or getting knocked loose during a move?
@Airwalker16 Did only one terminal melt like this one? Link to your 3070 crack-uphttps://www.rollitup.org/t/3070s-melted.901532/page-3
Ivr only EVER seen it happen with the chip lok holders. I think it's caused by the graphite pads and not screwing the holders down well enough, whether they get caught on a screw while tightening or something else.
 

Jqwerty1

Well-Known Member
I just moved my set up and one of my QB kits shocked me a bit. Not bad but now im definetly not going near when its on. Someone let me know whats wrong. i was touching the top of the heatsink and my arm contacted the unpainted steel ball bearing in the connecting joint of my grow tent. Wasnt a bad shock, i repeated it to make sure it wasnt just static but it was pretty damn annoying. I'm guessing it has something to do with the wiring past the QB and my houses grounding. I'm 99.99% my kit was put together properly and i made sure the wires were super secure and not frayed on the cable joiner and the kit was off on the timer.
 

ChiefRunningPhist

Well-Known Member
I just moved my set up and one of my QB kits shocked me a bit. Not bad but now im definetly not going near when its on. Someone let me know whats wrong. i was touching the top of the heatsink and my arm contacted the unpainted steel ball bearing in the connecting joint of my grow tent. Wasnt a bad shock, i repeated it to make sure it wasnt just static but it was pretty damn annoying. I'm guessing it has something to do with the wiring past the QB and my houses grounding. I'm 99.99% my kit was put together properly and i made sure the wires were super secure and not frayed on the cable joiner and the kit was off on the timer.
Do the lights flicker? I wonder if your conducting from your QB to your heat sink via screws or something and when your hand is touching the light and metal rod, it's effectively drawing from your circuit as its found you are a viable path to ground, as well as going through the QBs? I'd check your wiring for exposed electric, and then if you used screws to mount your QB to the heatsink that you replace the screws with non conductive thermal glue. If you're completing a circuit by touching your light and tent frame, there's some conduction from some where that it shouldn't be. I think the easiest way to avoid completing the circuit would be to not touch em lol but after that, by insulating one to the point that it won't conduct, the one giving power. Lol Good luck, you can tell your friends, "My grows so cool, its electrifying!" :bigjoint:
 
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