DIY with Quantum Boards

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loco41

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
Hey so I have a question regarding @guitarguy10 and his qb120 dilemma.

What do you all think about running 2 in series on a Delta LNE-48V150WDAA? This would send 3200ma to the circuit which is a little overpowered but if he dimmed them to 2800ma he could run at 65/70W each no problem. this would be a really easy build and low enough voltage to be "safe".

The other option would be to use the LNE-24V120WAAA. These would require being setup in parallel tho. Not sure if he should consider adding resistors or fuses at that point to protect from one board dying. I dont know if I'm overthinking this bc HLG doesn't mention it, but LED Gardner has me rethinking that one.

I got a bunch of both of these drivers on blowout from Arrow for $11 each a few months ago. I found out about the sale from RIU so figure I should pay it forward and help this guy out so his first experience w QBs isn't so frustrating.

If you all agree this is a good setup, I will drop 2 in the mail before the end of the week.
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I'm no expert but from what I understand, the 24v waa driver would be "safe" to run in parallel because it has the onboard voltage adjustment as well. If the voltage is limited on the driver, even if one board were to fail, it would only allow the one remaining board to use up to that specific voltage and therefore be limited on how much current it could pull. Hopefully someone with more knowledge/experience can come along and confirm what I say to be accurate though. I "limited" the voltage my hlg-a type driver when I wired my first build up, but have not had any failure to actually see what happens if one board were to go out. I did play around with both the Vo and Io adjustments to get a better feel for the set up at first, but after setting the Vo I only use the Io to adjust the power.

Good on you for offering to help him out though man, always nice seeing some positive vibes being sent out. I was going to attempt to respond to a previous question yesterday, but didn't want to confuse anyone even more so and you answered his questions in a way better fashion than I could have. Hope what I said above is true/helpful for the build moving forward though.
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
Running two boards in parallel does pose that risk. Running three or more boards in parallel lessens the risk, because any increased current differentials would be spread across multiple boards instead of just one.
 
G

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
@ilovereggae has been a great help to me so far. I have just been holding off on posting to a thread or starting a new thread until I had like a more concise set of questions, and also because there is hatred and assholes on this forum that say and do unhelpful and offensive stuff.

Such as @BobThe420Builder who told me to 'use your brain' when that is EXACTLY what I did by posting a thread asking a straight forward question here about getting all the other parts (other then driver and board(s)) in one place TO CANADA: https://rollitup.org/t/kit-of-diy-led-connectors-hardware.1038945/

When I have more of a concise setup in my mind with the help of @ilovereggae I will post it here or perhaps start a new thread, if for nothing else to aid anyone else who is new to this stuff trying to figure stuff out and doesn't want to be told to 'use their brain' (on a forum where that is exactly what they are doing reading on a forum).
 
BobThe420Builder

BobThe420Builder

Well-Known Member
guitarguy10 said:
@ilovereggae has been a great help to me so far. I have just been holding off on posting to a thread or starting a new thread until I had like a more concise set of questions, and also because there is hatred and assholes on this forum that say and do unhelpful and offensive stuff.

Such as @BobThe420Builder who told me to 'use your brain' when that is EXACTLY what I did by posting a thread asking a straight forward question here about getting all the other parts (other then driver and board(s)) in one place TO CANADA: https://rollitup.org/t/kit-of-diy-led-connectors-hardware.1038945/

When I have more of a concise setup in my mind with the help of @ilovereggae I will post it here or perhaps start a new thread, if for nothing else to aid anyone else who is new to this stuff trying to figure stuff out and doesn't want to be told to 'use their brain' (on a forum where that is exactly what they are doing reading on a forum).
Click to expand...

Ok your saying I'm sarcastic, but then you call me into another thread beating my head against your wall

I run 4 of those exact bds in series, in two different lights

Love to help but not sure you want my help

Again,good luck
 
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guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
BobThe420Builder said:
Ok your saying I'm sarcastic, but then you call me into another thread beating my head against your wall

I run 4 of those exact bds in series, in two different lights

Love to help but not sure you want my help

Again,good luck
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Sorry, i'm being too sensitive. I'm just trying to figure this all out without a guide and little electronics knowledge.
 
BobThe420Builder

BobThe420Builder

Well-Known Member
I'll try again then

I run those 4 bds in series

One has a 240h-2100b, the other is a 320h-2800b

The 320h will run them at 100% strength because of the 2800ma max of the driver
The 2100 won't run as high since it won't max out the ma on the bds

Your driver will work but not at 100% powerSeries2_grande.png
 
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2

2com

Well-Known Member
@guitarguy10
Hey man. If you're up for a bit of "101" on leds / drivers, check out these two "series" on yt.

1)
(growmau5's LED basics, 5 parts from what I remember. Good starting material)
2)
(ledgardener's meanwell drivers series. Several videos/parts, fairly long and very detailed. Might wanna bookmark for later)

The growmau5 series is a good 'noob' starting point. (I'm re-watching parts today, there's a lot of info to grasp, and to forget).
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
Hold up, at around 13:18 in this video growmau5 talking about hlg320-54a (he leaves out the first "-", and the "h" after 320, btw..?) and then what he says about the "54a"... That's, not right...right? Did this change since 2015 or something? Haha.
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
2com said:
Hold up, at around 13:18 in this video growmau5 talking about hlg320-54a (he leaves out the first "-", and the "h" after 320, btw..?) and then what he says about the "54a"... That's, not right...right? Did this change since 2015 or something? Haha.
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yeah wtff lol that is crazy. doesnt seem right at all
 
DarthPlagueis

DarthPlagueis

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what °C/W/3" means?

looking at the 1 inch model on heatsink usa for an example. It says
C/W/3": approximately 14.00

So does that mean it is able to cool off 14 watts per 3 inches? Or does it mean it's able to cool 14 degrees per 3 inches of watt power? I'm kind of confused. I figure it's the first one but I have no idea.

Trying to figure out how much heatsink is needed to cool some boards.

Thanks guys.
 
P

pilto

Active Member
This is how the "new" heatsinks for my "new" HLG XL 260w rspec KITS (yes BOTH OF THEM) arrived today. Both Quantum Board envelopes were resealed as well. I don't care if the RollItUp admin don't want me commenting, people deserve to be notified of how HLG treats their customers. THIS IS REDICULOUS.

THESE ARE BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX.

PXL_20201202_204238902.jpg
 
BobThe420Builder

BobThe420Builder

Well-Known Member
pilto said:
This is how the "new" heatsinks for my "new" HLG XL 260w rspec KITS (yes BOTH OF THEM) arrived today. Both Quantum Board envelopes were resealed as well. I don't care if the RollItUp admin don't want me commenting, people deserve to be notified of how HLG treats their customers. THIS IS REDICULOUS.

THESE ARE BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX.

View attachment 4758111
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What am i looking at exactly
 
2

2com

Well-Known Member
How does one figure out the number of boards a certain constant voltage driver can run is? There's a max current for a given led board/qb, and I see an "operational current" in the specs, but there's no minimum? Wouldn't it just be gradually dimmer?
pilto said:
This is how the "new" heatsinks for my "new" HLG XL 260w rspec KITS (yes BOTH OF THEM) arrived today. Both Quantum Board envelopes were resealed as well. I don't care if the RollItUp admin don't want me commenting, people deserve to be notified of how HLG treats their customers. THIS IS REDICULOUS.

THESE ARE BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX.

View attachment 4758111
Click to expand...
(Originally posted in wrong thread, my bad @pilto)
These heatsinks they sell aren't an "HLG" product, they're produced elsewhere and shipped (from china, maybe? correct me if I'm wrong) over here. They have some sharp edges etc., and they'll rub together during shipping and stuff.

They'll almost always have some degree of small dings or scratches, sometimes worse than others. It really doesn't affect the performance, and it's only aesthetic - especially if it's where the board(s) will cover. And they'll almost always have cnc lines that some are deeper than others, or maybe a fin or row of fins/pins will be slightly askew (you can just fix/undo that pretty easy), for example.

They're very well priced, fairly readily available, pre-drilled, look dope (black) and HLG gets them in and provides them for us me, when it's very difficult to find anything else similar online (canada sucks).

I say this because I'm pretty particular and careful and my first encounter with a slightly imperfect slate single, I was going over the sinks obsessing over any imperfection and worrying. I was kinda treating it as though it was a computer cpu and heatsink situation.

It sucks they're not perfect, and I can't tell fully by the picture, but wipe them down with alcohol and see if there's any actual damage. I doubt it. It's not gonna affect anything.

If you're talking about the anti-static bags/envelopes, they occasionally re-use those, if I remember correctly. Which is probably why they're open.

How were you mistreated; did you contact them yet?
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
I've got to say, these are not near as good as most of mine and I have at least 16. Machining doesn't look very good either from the looks of those grooves in them. Email them, tell them you'll send pics if they want. I'll bet they'll replace them. As to being upset about it, well shit happens and if you deal with a good company, they'll fix it it. I've never had anything but superior customer support from HLG. So rather than complain here, let the guys know in a nice way and they'll take care of you.


pilto said:
This is how the "new" heatsinks for my "new" HLG XL 260w rspec KITS (yes BOTH OF THEM) arrived today. Both Quantum Board envelopes were resealed as well. I don't care if the RollItUp admin don't want me commenting, people deserve to be notified of how HLG treats their customers. THIS IS REDICULOUS.

THESE ARE BRAND NEW OUT OF THE BOX.

View attachment 4758111
Click to expand...
 
G

guitarguy10

Well-Known Member
2com said:
How does one figure out the number of boards a certain constant voltage driver can run is? There's a max current for a given led board/qb, and I see an "operational current" in the specs, but there's no minimum? Wouldn't it just be gradually dimmer?

(Originally posted in wrong thread, my bad @pilto)
These heatsinks they sell aren't an "HLG" product, they're produced elsewhere and shipped (from china, maybe? correct me if I'm wrong) over here. They have some sharp edges etc., and they'll rub together during shipping and stuff.

They'll almost always have some degree of small dings or scratches, sometimes worse than others. It really doesn't affect the performance, and it's only aesthetic - especially if it's where the board(s) will cover. And they'll almost always have cnc lines that some are deeper than others, or maybe a fin or row of fins/pins will be slightly askew (you can just fix/undo that pretty easy), for example.

They're very well priced, fairly readily available, pre-drilled, look dope (black) and HLG gets them in and provides them for us me, when it's very difficult to find anything else similar online (canada sucks).

I say this because I'm pretty particular and careful and my first encounter with a slightly imperfect slate single, I was going over the sinks obsessing over any imperfection and worrying. I was kinda treating it as though it was a computer cpu and heatsink situation.

It sucks they're not perfect, and I can't tell fully by the picture, but wipe them down with alcohol and see if there's any actual damage. I doubt it. It's not gonna affect anything.

If you're talking about the anti-static bags/envelopes, they occasionally re-use those, if I remember correctly. Which is probably why they're open.

How were you mistreated; did you contact them yet?
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Which constant voltage driver? Have you read it's datasheet which should have like graphs and stuff lol, thats about all I can offer.
 
downhill21

downhill21

Well-Known Member
downhill21 said:
Yup, u got em both. The white plastic bridges or enclosures on the front, & the black plastic / vinyl / whatever connecting the driver on the back. Based on what u guys are telling me, both kinda serve the function of conduit? Protect / enclose the connections & conductors? I thought initially the conductors / insulation themselves might be beefier. I’d like to protect the connections against accidental rough treatment, such as HLG does on the commercial/ non-diy models like 600 R.
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Woot! Woot! HLG’s Croptober Sale brought the commercial grade (assembled) 600R for sale @ $730 (or so), so I pounced.
 
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