DIY with Quantum Boards
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Budget?What would be the best setup for some 800-1000watts in QBs? I know, Im a little hard of reading, especially such a long thread with relatively old posts. I'd rather have some new, fresh and polite information ^^ Thanks
I wouldnt really know. I like quality. My last built was 600w with cree cxbs 3590, and they never wore out... I wouldnt go above and beyond pricewise for adding 2-5% efficiency, so I would go for something very nice and neat, without being unreasonable and not knowing the options...
SCJedi
Well-Known Member
I have 4xQB288 on a HLG480H. I think that if I wanted 800-100W I would build two of these kits and add another two board system for 10 boards total.
At what current do you then drive them? What has been your results with them so far, and how big a heatsink did you go with? Thanks for chipping in
I didn’t realise the v1 boards came in 3500k, thought it was only 3000k or 4000k
ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
There's so many options, but I don't see anything wrong with what @SCJedi is saying, that seems like a pretty legit way to go. 1000w of QB should do ~30ft2 nicely.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
QBs work well with cobs.... and can be added for a hybrid rig using both.
And if you combine in a new build ... drop the reflectors ( better overlap ).
Hello! long time lurker 
Anyone have experience with Lrs 75-36 drivers and the v1 qb132s? I can't seem to get any of them to run
@Mr.Jiujitsu had working pics in another thread, and the only differences i can tell are his power chord had a ground, his v+/v- was wired through a potentiometer and display instead of directly to the boards, and the print on my boards is a little different, with max current at 2400mA instead of 2000mA and that stuff at bottom
multimeter reads ~36v but 0 current. strangely, if i switch the voltage wires so v+ connects to v- the boards will flash on and off with inconsistent, varying current
ive been all over the place with this but can't seem to get a straight answer :/
any help is appreciated!
Anyone have experience with Lrs 75-36 drivers and the v1 qb132s? I can't seem to get any of them to run
@Mr.Jiujitsu had working pics in another thread, and the only differences i can tell are his power chord had a ground, his v+/v- was wired through a potentiometer and display instead of directly to the boards, and the print on my boards is a little different, with max current at 2400mA instead of 2000mA and that stuff at bottom
multimeter reads ~36v but 0 current. strangely, if i switch the voltage wires so v+ connects to v- the boards will flash on and off with inconsistent, varying current
ive been all over the place with this but can't seem to get a straight answer :/
any help is appreciated!
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure those boards are more like 33-34 Volts. try turning down the voltage knob? And for god's sake, get a proper cord and ground that shit!Hello! long time lurker
Anyone have experience with Lrs 75-36 drivers and the v1 qb132s? I can't seem to get any of them to run
@Mr.Jiujitsu had working pics in another thread, and the only differences i can tell are his power chord had a ground, his v+/v- was wired through a potentiometer and display instead of directly to the boards, and the print on my boards is a little different, with max current at 2400mA instead of 2000mA and that stuff at bottom
multimeter reads ~36v but 0 current. strangely, if i switch the voltage wires so v+ connects to v- the boards will flash on and off with inconsistent, varying current
ive been all over the place with this but can't seem to get a straight answer :/
any help is appreciated!
View attachment 4301702 View attachment 4301703
I can't understand why you wouldn't just use an LPv or LPF model meanwell for this low of a wattage. LRS saves some cash on 200/350 but 75watts, Nah.
TEKNIK
Well-Known Member
You said that much nicer than I would have, ffs didn't I discuss those drivers yesterday
lol thanks for the reply guys. am i not allowed to like comments because new acct? don't see the option
I tried messing with the voltage knob unsuccessfully but ill try again more carefully tomorrow.
im a complete electronics noob, so i don't really know what's good and what isn't. all the different drivers and numbers during research plus learning about parallel/series/current etc. was a little overwhelming.. ended up with lrs 75-24s for the qb120s. they worked, and i liked the familiarity and 1board/driver setup, so just got the 36v version.
i still have a pretty basic understanding, but ill definitely do additional research on your recommendations for future qbs, ty everyone
hope i can get em to work, fingers crossed
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ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Seems they are different boards. Same wiring, different chips. I think yours are LM301b and his are 2835 less effecient chips.lol thanks for the reply guys. am i not allowed to like comments because new acct? don't see the option
I tried messing with the voltage knob unsuccessfully but ill try again more carefully tomorrow.
im a complete electronics noob, so i don't really know what's good and what isn't. all the different drivers and numbers during research plus learning about parallel/series/current etc. was a little overwhelming.. ended up with lrs 75-24s for the qb120s. they worked, and i liked the familiarity and 1board/driver setup, so just got the 36v version.
i still have a pretty basic understanding, but ill definitely do additional research on your recommendations for future qbs, ty everyone
hope i can get em to work, fingers crossed
Yours...
His...
I'm thinking the first way that you had the wiring that didn't have any current flowing was backwards. You want it plugged in to where they were flickering on and off and amperage fluctuating. Then adjust voltage down like @Airwalker16 said via the white potentiometer at driver.
I'm thinking you have 36V set as your output which means that the strings of 12 will be seeing about 3v per chip! 36V ÷ 12 = 3V. If you look at the LM301b data sheet you can see the amperage flowing at that potential is over 200mA!
200mA × 11 = 2.2A. Your driver is only rated to 2.1A, so as the driver V is ramping up more and more current is flowing, but then it gets to a point where your light wants to draw more current (2.2A) than your driver can supply (2.1A) at the 36V, and because it can't supply it the driver shuts off, this happens over and over. Gives juice to a point, then shuts off, then turns back on and starts the process over. If you adjust your driver V down to reflect the max V needed in each string to utilize the entire 2.1A (driver max) then you won't have flickering.
The other guys' chips (2835) require more V to flow the same amount of current as your chips. Because of this, your chips will draw more current at 36v than his will. This is why his chips stayed on, because at 3v per 2835 or 36v per string, the amount of current that can flow per chip is less and so his light drew less A than yours does when you turn yours up to 36v.
Btw the driver you selected is the MOST effecient @ 91.5% in its class that I've found. I think its a good choice.
Try adjusting down to no more than 34V max, anything under 34V.
2.1A ÷ 11 = 190mA max per chip. 190mA max current corresponds to about 2.83V (guesstimate) if looking at the LM301b chart, 12 × 2.83v = 34V. Over 34V and your driver will shut down. Also as it heats up it could start to flicker again, as it heats up, more current flows, and so if it starts to flicker you'll have to turn the driver V lower than 34V.
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ChiefRunningPhist
Well-Known Member
Drivers I looked at for effeciency..
LRS 75 36 - 91.5%...
LPF 90 36 - 91.0%...
HLG 80h 36 - 91.0%..
HLG 60h 36 - 90.0%...
LPF 60 36 - 90.0%...
ELG 75 36 - 89.0%...
LPV 75 36 - 86.0%...
LPV 60 36 - 86.0%...
LRS 75 36 - 91.5%...
LPF 90 36 - 91.0%...
HLG 80h 36 - 91.0%..
HLG 60h 36 - 90.0%...
LPF 60 36 - 90.0%...
ELG 75 36 - 89.0%...
LPV 75 36 - 86.0%...
LPV 60 36 - 86.0%...
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
That's INCREDIBLY interesting.
nobighurry
Well-Known Member
building a QB 550 is there an advantage to Pig tailing all the positive from my 4 QB 288 boards to driver positive out put and all negative to negative on meanwell 480H c2100A driver vs typicalboard wiring? Was told it evens all the voltage to the boards?
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Those boards are either 48-54V and that driver needs somewhere prob between 150-300 so you wouldn't have enough voltage wiring them in parallel like that.
Update: They work!! Sooo happy/relieved right now jxjsmrkdmzn lol
I'm so high off this I don't even need a smoke ..still gona tho lol
Super cool of you guys to help other ppl out, ty chief, air, diy, riu!
If any of yall wantin some clones in socal/LA area, hit me up, I got u
This is honestly such a well written and informative post. Never woulda got all that in a million yrs on my own, but I was able to follow everything u said, and I feel like I have a better understanding now thanks to you. It's exactly as u n air suggested, wires crossed, voltage needed to be lowered. (V+ goes to V- if anyone got the same parts/problem!!)
I'm so high off this I don't even need a smoke ..still gona tho lol
Super cool of you guys to help other ppl out, ty chief, air, diy, riu!
If any of yall wantin some clones in socal/LA area, hit me up, I got u