Oh really, damn. I thought that since these drivers were cv+cc they would not run on max current if not needed..
Hmm i need to rethink it all then.
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
Hmm i need to rethink it all then.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
With both setups the max. driver current is over that of the boards. 4,2A is 100mA too much for each boards and 13,3A is 167mA too much for each board with 6pcs. Add one board more to each driver and you're fine.
Max. driver current should "always" be below LED max. current otherwise you can destroy them. Yes, you can limit the maximum voltage with CV/CC drivers to avoid thermal runaway and eliminate the risc to overdrive the boards too much if one board fails but I woud not recommend to do it unless you use a multimeter to set the limit exactly above the boards max. voltage. 1v more can make a huge difference(+50w and more depending on driver and setup).
How big is the area you want to light up with the HLG-480? It's a 550w driver siutable for a 4x 4' or 4x 5' area.
From 13:10. What he explained here made me believe this would be doable because the cv+cc drivers wouldnt go into constant current mode untill it has enough boards to actually pull the max current, and untill reaching that point it would function as a cv driver.
If thats not the case i should figure something else out..
Its supposed to go into a 2x4 tent so maybe its a bit overlill anyways.
I have a 2x4 already with a 260w in it, my original idea was to buy a 320w kit from hlg to put in the new tent and build my old 260 into a 320.
My setup is gonna be two 2x4 tents, but i havent been able to decide on lighting and driver options yet.
Hattibagen
Member
In reference to HLG drivers. You can either go with the A or B. I know the B you have to add your own potentiometer. On the A series dimming has to be done with a screwdriver. Other than ease of use is there any other reason that someone might want to use the B. I don't have a problem inserting a screwdriver each time I want to change but is the dimming more limited? sorry maybe this has been explained before but I haven't been able to find the answer. Thanks
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, if you use a 48v CV/CC driver for example and connect LED's directly to it and they are in the range of 24-48v(CC region) it switch into direct drive mode. This means you can use 24v LED's on an 48v driver but you'll get only half of the drivers maximum output. Only above 48v is runs automaticly in CV mode like when you connect secondary dc-dc drivers to it like MW LDD's. In this case it runs in CV mode and the voltage adjustment range apply. So if stay with the example and the boards take more than 48v the driver would never switch into CC mode. But dimming can cause the switch into CC mode (if current goes down voltage also goes down) and you recognize it when there is no function on the voltage regulator anymore. That's a clear hint it works in CC mode.
That's the according part in the datasheet:
Much room for misinterpretation, though it's pretty easy once you finally understand it.
Attach COBS to Slate 3 heat sink ?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
No problem. It makes no difference if you use 140w QB or 4pcs 35w COB's per slate1. Both works and at the same efficiency the produce the same amount of heat. For one high powered COB at 140w the base is probably a bit too thin to spread the heat adequately. But with fewer low powered COB's you could even use a 3mm sheet metal as long as it has enough surface area.
Salah82
Active Member
I am new to Cob Lights and i am looking to build my own Luminus CXM 22 3500k 90cri cob setup.
Asking for your guys expertise on this since i am a newcomer to all of this.
We got a 8x4 tent and are looking to run 24 cobs at around 45 watt each.
Which driver would you guys recommend for best results? Also we got a 100x100cm tent and are looking to run 9 cobs in it, also at 45 watt each.
Would love to hear what your thoughts is on our project and which drivers to get.
Much love
Asking for your guys expertise on this since i am a newcomer to all of this.
We got a 8x4 tent and are looking to run 24 cobs at around 45 watt each.
Which driver would you guys recommend for best results? Also we got a 100x100cm tent and are looking to run 9 cobs in it, also at 45 watt each.
Would love to hear what your thoughts is on our project and which drivers to get.
Much love
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
There are a few ways to get near to the 1080w you want.
To get ~45w out of a CXM22(50v COB) you need ~900mA. The next siutable Meanwell drivers have either 700mA(35w) or 1050mA(55w) if you use series wiring. For parallel wiring you need a 54v Meanwell driver because they can run 27-54v COB's in constant current mode.
A HLG-240H-C700A(50-100% dimming) or B(dimmable down to 6-10%) is enough for 6-7 CXM22 in series(220-230w with 6). Thats only 880-920w but the most efficient setup because COB's would run soft. Number of drivers: 4
A HLG-240H-C1050A or B is enough for 4 CXM22 in series(220-230w) x 6(for 24 CXM22) = 1320-1360w max. but dimmable with B version. Still efficient and below nom. current and HLG-240's have the best price/performance rating.
Number of drivers: 6
A HLG-320H-C1050B can drive up to 6 CXM22 in series(up to 330-350w) and with 4 of them you'll have 1320-1400w. Number of drivers: 4
You can also use parallel wiring. It's a bit more wiring effort but it's possible to get closer to the 45w per CXM22.
Like mentioned above you need ~900mA per CXM22 to get ~45w, so for 6 CXM22 in parallel you need ~5,4Amps.
An HLG-320H-54A or B has ~5,95Apms with 6 COB's in parallel each CXM22 get's ~990mA and would run with ~49,5w and you'll get ~310w per driver or 1240w because the driver run in CC mode(~51v/5,95A). Number of drivers: 4
You can also use the cheaper HLG-240H-54A or B(4,65A). With 5 CXM22 each would run at your desired 45(46-47w probably) but with 5 drivers you would have one COB left or use one with 6pcs CXM22 at ~800mA in the middle. That's the good thing with parallel wiring, you can add more COB's if you want. With series wiring you need a fixed number of COB's, 3-6 on an HLG-320H-C1050 for instance.
If you take HLG-240's you'll safe a few bucks because of it's better price/performance rating but with 4pcs HLG-320 you only have two drivers per 4x 4' fixture. Less drivers, less wiring and less dimmers weigh more than the price difference IMO.
I would use 4pcs HLG-320H-C1050B's, 6 COB's in series per driver, up to 1400w but dimmable via external potentiometers. You could use 2pcs B100k poti's for dimming(e3ay) but it's also possible to use a single B50k poti to dimm both drivers in once. Simply connect them both to the same pins(left and center) and it works.
It's a bit more power like what you mentioned above(43,75w per sft instead of 33,75w with 1080w) but you'll anyway use the dimmer to adjust the intensity according to the growth stage and to have a few more hp than needed gives you more flexiblility with the hanging height.
At 1050mA you can expect a system efficiency around 2,2μMol/J. With 1400w that's 3080μMol/s PPF and around 1070μMol/s/m² above an 4x 8' area(2,88m²). Depending on hanging height and reflective walls it could be less or even more. You would use the max. output anyway only for a few weeks but it's also possible to increase the canopy.
With a 5x 8' area(3,6m²) you would have ~855μMol/s/m² and above a 5x 10' area(4,5m²) it would be still usable 685μMol/s/m². The latter would yield much better because lower intensities are more efficient and you have almost twice as much plants and area. Remember, such a light will last at least 50-70.000h or 6-8years(90% output), probably much longer because they run below nonimal current. Maybe you have more space to play with later..?!
Lot's of info but you'll need it anyway at some point. Below a few datasheets
Salah82
Active Member
Thank you brother mad answer on my post, wow!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, wanted to offer a few solutions and added reasons why. From my experience with new members, there come always more questions when the first one is answered.
Salah82
Active Member
Just don't wanna mess things up and piss away tons of money you know i mean.
And being able to hit up the COB OG's with actual experience for advice, is better then reading any 'dead' book about the subject!
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/kits/products/260w-xl-qb-v2-led-kit
I think that the xl would give you a better spread over 4'.
I think that the xl would give you a better spread over 4'.
J.James
Well-Known Member
Moved my post but I take it that was for me, Thank you for the quick reply!
GreenNucleus
Well-Known Member
@Randomblame and anyone else who is willing to help.
Just built a light with what I had: 16 x 1 ft EB2 strips. I had 12 - 3500k EB2s, 2 - 5000k EB2s, 2 - 4000k EB2s. I'm going to be covering about 5 sq ft. I have a 185h-C1050 and 185H-C1400 driver. Would it be best to split it into 7S2P and drive each at 525mA? I know I won't be maxing the driver but I was hoping someone could help me feel confident in this approach.
Just built a light with what I had: 16 x 1 ft EB2 strips. I had 12 - 3500k EB2s, 2 - 5000k EB2s, 2 - 4000k EB2s. I'm going to be covering about 5 sq ft. I have a 185h-C1050 and 185H-C1400 driver. Would it be best to split it into 7S2P and drive each at 525mA? I know I won't be maxing the driver but I was hoping someone could help me feel confident in this approach.
Salah82
Active Member
Future project, 16 of those in the 8x4, 6 of em in the 100x100cm booooom!
All for about 2700€ with drivers,hangers and everything needed!
https://www.led-tech.de/de/ZEUS-308-XT-High-Performance-KIT-3500k
All for about 2700€ with drivers,hangers and everything needed!
https://www.led-tech.de/de/ZEUS-308-XT-High-Performance-KIT-3500k
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I would use the HLG-185H-C1050(190v) and drive up to 18 strips in 9s2p. 9x 20v are 180v and because meanwell drivers have a bit more current you can expect ~203w net and 219w at the wall. That's 40w net/sft and ~900μMol/s/m² ppfd.
The B version is dimmable down to 6% and you need a 100k potentiometer, A version drivers down to 50% but via build-in regulator.
A HLG-185H-C1400(143v) should be enough for 7s2p(7-20,5v = 143,5v) but it's 0,5v above. That means, it's possible that you need to dimm it down a bit from start until strips get warm because when switched on the voltage is ~0,5v higher.(up to 21v each strip at 700mA). But 6s3p would be save and you could use up to 18 strips to mix a nice spectrum.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
This wish can be fulfilled, mate.
Yeah, no eye cancer anymore and with a good yielding strain you can expect up to 15zips out of this space or +1,5g/w. Pretty sure you'll beat the platinium results easily!
BTW,
congrats on the purchase..
Rocket Soul
Well-Known Member
Ok so im looking at building a fixture of 4 qb304 boards. The voltage on these are between 102 and 114. So im iooking at parallel conections over a meanwell CC driver, hlg240. I want to get as much wattage out of that driver as possible, what would be preferable, hlg240hc2100 with 4 boards in parallel or hlg240hc1050 with 2s2p: 2 strings of 2 boards in series.
I know:
In theory these should give me the same wattage
That 4 in parallel might be problematic if i have failures as the max amp per board is 1400
That running 2 boards in series have risky high voltage
What i dont know is how the meanwells behave in real life on these kinds of connection. Can anyone tell me which configuration gives highest wattage/draw?
@CobKits
@diyled
Tagging you guys for your experience
I know:
In theory these should give me the same wattage
That 4 in parallel might be problematic if i have failures as the max amp per board is 1400
That running 2 boards in series have risky high voltage
What i dont know is how the meanwells behave in real life on these kinds of connection. Can anyone tell me which configuration gives highest wattage/draw?
@CobKits
@diyled
Tagging you guys for your experience
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