DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Bhookus

Member
1.5" on the 3590's and 1.25" for the 3070's I didn't pay attention that you were using 3070's but beforew you drill holes place the cob holder at 1.25" first on the 3070's ands see how it looks because you don't want them too close to the edge
Yes, the arcs are traced from the holders. They are on nice and clean. I will move the 3590s in .5".
 

Bhookus

Member
I keep them tight because I drive them so low. (700maA) the overlap keeps the umols high and the system efficient.. just a significantly higher up front cost (~1k, to cover a 2x3' how I want) but with the parts I put into such a small build I could just as well cover a 4x4 if I ran the 8 cobs harder. If you wanted to cover a large space with less money, you could run them at 1400mA or if you can find a driver, up to the 2800mA limit.
Yes, I do want to push for a larger area, 40"x36". I think I may go with 1050mA on the 3590s in the middle and 1400mA with the 3070s on the out side. Keeps with my ramping up plan.
 

Bhookus

Member
Now that I've got 1400mA worked out for the 3070s how far from the edge can I go? Is the 1.25" still acceptable? It's gonna have the single pure20 fan mounted in the middle. I was thinking I would mount the drivers close to the fan for air ducting effect.
 

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
I would replicate greengenes 4000k build then, he just mentioned what the spacing was. He had an apogee meter as well so it wouldn't be just guessing. I'm a numbers guy. I want legitimate data before setting in with anything. I just got lucky with my build. At those amps I see the leds being that close as conterproductive with as wide an angle as they have.

Seriously. Look at @Greengenes707 build, pick whatever spectrum you want. Bring the short side in a bit, but his perfectly covera a 4x4 with 9 3070s with killer numbers.
 

Scotch089

Well-Known Member
@Bhookus I spent some time outside for yah.

My cobs in flower (panel above) are about 2" apart at the closest point, and at 700mA with 8 cobs at 18" I put out 1100~ umols, more than what a plant can use without co2 supp. At the furthest point they are probably 5-6" away on the end and are hitting 850umol

My veg panel consists of x3 5k cxas inline spread out about 6" apart covering a 2x3, at 700ma and 18" they put out 400 umol.

At higher current (1000, 1400, etc.) I don't see needing them spaced closer than 6" and hitting some good numbers at the canopy.

I wish gg or capn would chime in on this and speak to their setups. They both have meters.
 

Bhookus

Member
@Bhookus I spent some time outside for yah.

My cobs in flower (panel above) are about 2" apart at the closest point, and at 700mA with 8 cobs at 18" I put out 1100~ umols, more than what a plant can use without co2 supp. At the furthest point they are probably 5-6" away on the end and are hitting 850umol

My veg panel consists of x3 5k cxas inline spread out about 6" apart covering a 2x3, at 700ma and 18" they put out 400 umol.

At higher current (1000, 1400, etc.) I don't see needing them spaced closer than 6" and hitting some good numbers at the canopy.

I wish gg or capn would chime in on this and speak to their setups. They both have meters.
Thank you. So actually, I'm building 3 panels, but with that info maybe I should get more heatsink and run fewer per panel. I already have purchased 12x 3070s and 12x 3590s and 3x heatsinks. My space is 12'x40". I have some kessils I was going to supplement the ends with. I also have a 9' light rail and was planning to move the 3 panels <36". I am not trying to stretch the light just shift it for improved penetration and even spread. Maybe I should put 4 per panel and mount some solo as satellites off the main panels.
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
Came across meanwell LPC-100 Series. They should be available soon. I see that they are much cheaper than NPC and LPF series. However the R&N is 1V for LPC-100 vs only 250mV for NPC and LPF. Any thoughts on LPC series ?
Also any DC-DC converter to convert 42v into 12v for fan.

Edit: I guess the answer is no for dc-dc converter unless LM2596 is used
https://www.rollitup.org/t/led-build-2-heatsink-200w.869479/page-5#post-11675275
https://www.rollitup.org/t/fan-controller-for-diy-leds.871520/#post-11609702
 
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alesh

Well-Known Member
Came across meanwell LPC-100 Series. They should be available soon. I see that they are much cheaper than NPC and LPF series. However the R&N is 1V for LPC-100 vs only 250mV for NPC and LPF. Any thoughts on LPC series ?
Also any DC-DC converter to convert 42v into 12v for fan.

Edit: I guess the answer is no for dc-dc converter unless LM2596 is used
https://www.rollitup.org/t/led-build-2-heatsink-200w.869479/page-5#post-11675275
https://www.rollitup.org/t/fan-controller-for-diy-leds.871520/#post-11609702
LM2596/LM2596HV based DC-DC converters are fine for the application. They're less than $3 on ebay.
I'm sure that there are other usable converters, too.

LPC is low-end series. I'd prefer HLG-185H (which is no more expensive, watt for watt) unless you need 2.1A output or HLG-185H is too big.
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
How about this driver? Does it good to run 4 cxa3070 ab bin 3000k? And how many par/ppfd I can pull from this?
http://www.sunpower-uk.com/product/300W-150V-2A-Constant-Voltage-LED-Light-Driver/PLEV-300S150ST/default.htm
It won't run 4 CXA3070s, you'd have to use 4 CXB3070s. But 2A is quite a lot for 3070. You might be able to fit 4 Vero29 on the driver.

Both CXB3070 and Vero would be around 40% efficient, producing ~570 µmol/s. Veros might be the winner by a slight margin and you don't need holders for them.
 

Organja

Well-Known Member
I need tech explanation. Is someone willing to text me or something and explain the math and details behind this? I've spent the last several nights searching and trying to make sense of spec sheets. I don't want a link to a driver. I want to know why the driver pairs with the led. Supra, alesh....someone. I am willing to do my own homework, but this seems ridiculous that I can't find the more technical answers I seek. I want to do this proper..

Thanks all, sorry if this is off topic.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
@Organja

Whether you are choosing between a 36v or 72v 3590, the process is the same...


Example:
1x 36v running @ 1.4 amps... you need a drive with at least 36 volts and 1.4 mAmps

Voltage changes for each given amount of amperage....and will fluctuate slightly for the Vf50 measurement given...3-4% of total voltage if cooled properly...so a good idea to run a little extra voltage...

Most people wire Multiple COBs in series because voltage is added together and current remains constant...this is important because the drivers an LEDs use constant current...

Four 36v 3590's wired in a series needs at least 4*34.89= 139.56 volts..and 1.4 amps....The Meanwell HLG 185-1400C, is a good choice because it puts out 144 volts @ 1.4 amps...Perfect fit....

This would draw 195 watts [139.56*1.4][Volts *Amps= Watts] and be 51.67% efficient....meaning that

.5167* 195 = 100.75 Par Watts


[Wiring in parallel keeps voltage constant and shares Current...which can be bad with out extra circuitry or complex]



 

wewenru

Active Member
Oh shit. My fail guys. You right. So meanwell hlg-185h-c1400 will be the best choose to run 4 cxa3070 in these days or not? But what driver can run this cob's harder? As Supra say "you would get more bud by driving each COB harder" I don't want drive it very hard. But I'm think 2amps will be enough. Any advices?
 

Organja

Well-Known Member
@Organja

Whether you are choosing between a 36v or 72v 3590, the process is the same...


Example:
1x 36v running @ 1.4 amps... you need a drive with at least 36 volts and 1.4 mAmps

Voltage changes for each given amount of amperage....and will fluctuate slightly for the Vf50 measurement given...3-4% of total voltage if cooled properly...so a good idea to run a little extra voltage...

Most people wire Multiple COBs in series because voltage is added together and current remains constant...this is important because the drivers an LEDs use constant current...

Four 36v 3590's wired in a series needs at least 4*34.89= 139.56 volts..and 1.4 amps....The Meanwell HLG 185-1400C, is a good choice because it puts out 144 volts @ 1.4 amps...Perfect fit....

This would draw 195 watts [139.56*1.4][Volts *Amps= Watts] and be 51.67% efficient....meaning that

.5167* 195 = 100.75 Par Watts


[Wiring in parallel keeps voltage constant and shares Current...which can be bad with out extra circuitry or complex]



So the 36V is a better option price and efficiency wise? Plus, a smaller driver is required, correct?
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
So the 36V is a better option price and efficiency wise? Plus, a smaller driver is required, correct?
Well if you feed them the same current, then yes. But if you match the driver to feed them the same power, they're exactly same efficient and driver of the same power is required.

Basically the 36V version has more options if you need 1 driver per COB. If you use more COBs per 1 driver (ie HLG-185H) there isn't much difference (none).
 

Organja

Well-Known Member
Well if you feed them the same current, then yes. But if you match the driver to feed them the same power, they're exactly same efficient and driver of the same power is required.

Basically the 36V version has more options if you need 1 driver per COB. If you use more COBs per 1 driver (ie HLG-185H) there isn't much difference (none).
Is there any reason one would choose a single diver for Multiple LED's. VS multiple drivers over single LED's? I guess with multiple if one fails, the rest still work, whereas I'd driver fails running many, they all go out, is this correct thinking?
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Is there any reason one would choose a single diver for Multiple LED's. VS multiple drivers over single LED's? I guess with multiple if one fails, the rest still work, whereas I'd driver fails running many, they all go out, is this correct thinking?
Large drivers are (much) cheaper (per watt) and usually have higher efficiency and offer full set of features and protections.
 
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