DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I use bare .25" connectors (6mm). Most of the time I use 18-22 gauge on the crimp side. In order to fit (5) 18 gauge wires in there to make a splitter I used 10-12 gauge. I ordered from eledirect.com because they have bare terminals, cheap wire and free shipping over $99.
 
medicinehuman

medicinehuman

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I just cut those connectors off and use the black and red wires. One word of warning is to make sure your fan power supply can reliably start all four fans from a dead stop. You can add a capacitor to give the fans a boost when they first click on. It may not be necessary but I am experimenting with it because it seems like a good safeguard to protect the COBs. Something like this 16V 1000uf.
Click to expand...
I was talking to my son and he said same thing. Nothing about a capacitor though, thanks for the tip.
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
Supra, how big of a difference is there between using a thermal paste vs using a thermal adhesive? Say arctic silver vs arctic alumia?
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
The difference in performance is much less important when the heatsink surface is flattened and when the LED is running soft. There is some good info in the CXA Design Guide.

Alumina is 4W/mK and Arctic Silver 5 is 8.7W/mK. I use Prolimatech PK2 which is 10.2W/mK and now PK3 is available 11.2W/mK. For reference the thermal conductivity of aluminum is 205W/mK and copper is 385W/mK.

An extruded heatsink surface is very much improved by 60 grit sandpaper so although the surface seems smooth, the gap is 250-500um.

Thermal Paste 1.png

Thermal Paste 2.png

Thermal Paste 3.png
 
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stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Just woke up ....
After an all-night-through -RIU-blah-blah-session...
Got to go for some work ....
( !!! )

Anyway ...
Supra ,those Prolimatech thermal pastes, kick ass !
WoW!

( Although ,I think Ther. Cond. of pure/soft Alum is close to 230-234 W/m.K ..Anyway ..Trivial...)

What I wanted to say ...

I've discovered ,that if you sand the heatsink ,with the finest grit of sandpaper ..
(the finishing / final 'round' or 'session' ...)
Better to do it softly by hand ,(a sandpaper 'sponge ' -3M/ Bosch /etc- might help to keep sanding flat )
and under the water tap (in the sink ...) with some water running / being poured to the sanded heatsink surface ,
while sanding ....

The 'hydro-slide-water -film ' that is being created during the sanding motion ,really gives the final surface ,a roughness ,(most probably ) -much ?- lower than the finest sandpaper alone, (if used dry) would've given ...

Just something ,I 've discovered ...

(And none of aluminium dust,which is rather great ! )

Using this method ,I've sanded my heatsinks ....
To a level that almost feel the same like the back side of the CXA's

(^^^^Ok ...Now ,I might be exxagerating ....But really 'feels' (and 'looks ') way-way 'smooth' ,
like the ceramic surface of the CXAs ....'Like' .....)

...
Cheers,brother .
 
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A

algrow12

New Member
I'm looking for a meanwell driver that can power 4
Bridgelux BXRC-40E1000-B-03 ran in series one that can be dimmed would be great. Thank you in advance
 
O

overthinkingismything

Member
algrow12 said:
I'm looking for a meanwell driver that can power 4
Bridgelux BXRC-40E1000-B-03 ran in series one that can be dimmed would be great. Thank you in advance
Click to expand...
If it has to be meanwell, then the H LG -6 0 H - C350. It will run 8 of those. This is the only low power, high voltage meanwell option that I know of.

A version for internal pot adjustment (210 - 350ma)
B version for PWM/10V dimming

Inventronics offers some larger wattage options with multiple (I think up to 6) 100v outputs at around 350ma if I'm not mistaken. This could be good if you wanted to run more than 1 - 2 strings in the future.
 
A

algrow12

New Member
I'm not opposed to using another driver. I have 4 vero 18s Right now.They are in a 2' x 1' cabinet. I'm finding there's not enough light in some parts of the cabinet. my question is do y'all think that eight vero 10s run at 350ma be enough.I'm running the 18s at 1050ma. any thoughts .
 
bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
algrow12 said:
I'm not opposed to using another driver. I have 4 vero 18s Right now.They are in a 2' x 1' cabinet. I'm finding there's not enough light in some parts of the cabinet. my question is do y'all think that eight vero 10s run at 350ma be enough.I'm running the 18s at 1050ma. any thoughts .
Click to expand...
Seems to me like it would be easier to add two more vero 18's than trying to add 8 Vero 10's.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
I'm going to be running 3 3050 3000k cobs and 8 philips rebel 660 leds and 2 -3 fans on one heat sink .. I'm trying to figure out drivers. I only want to run 2-3 drivers. What would be the best drivers for that?
[ 0 :: 0 :: 0 ] or [ : 0 : 0 : 0 : ]

^^^^^ idea of layout
 
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Mt Doo

Mt Doo

Active Member
Question is there a driver that power multiple cobs and is that even a good idea.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Rollitup mobile app
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
Mt Doo said:
Question is there a driver that power multiple cobs and is that even a good idea.
Click to expand...
meets that your specification...

600W 32-Channel Dimmable LED Driver

Output
• Voltage: 2 - 48V
• Current range: every LED output is programmable from 200mA to 1,050mA
• Power: 600W max

General
• Power factor: > 0.90 at full load
• USITT DMX512A / RDM (explore & address, ANSI E1.20) and LedSync compatible
• DALI compatible (IEC 62386-101/102/207)
• 0-10V compatible (IEC 60929 Annex E). POWERdrive 6060/R is a current source
driver, compatible with both current sink and current source controllers.
For a list of compatible 0-10V dimmers, please visit www.eldoled.com/compatibility
• Hybrid HydraDrive: efficient, smooth and flicker-free dimming
• Full dimming control: 100% to 0%, choice of dimming curve type
• High efficiency over a wide power and voltage range: 84% at full load
• Maximum (rated) power available over wide LED voltage and LED current range (200-1,050mA)
• NTC interface for robust thermal management per 4 LED outputs
• ShowMaster: 9 default shows, up to 20 user-defined shows, uploadable with TOOLbox and TOOLbox software
 
DiyKindaGuy

DiyKindaGuy

Active Member
guod said:
meets that your specification...

600W 32-Channel Dimmable LED Driver

Output
• Voltage: 2 - 48V
• Current range: every LED output is programmable from 200mA to 1,050mA
• Power: 600W max

General
• Power factor: > 0.90 at full load
• USITT DMX512A / RDM (explore & address, ANSI E1.20) and LedSync compatible
• DALI compatible (IEC 62386-101/102/207)
• 0-10V compatible (IEC 60929 Annex E). POWERdrive 6060/R is a current source
driver, compatible with both current sink and current source controllers.
For a list of compatible 0-10V dimmers, please visit www.eldoled.com/compatibility
• Hybrid HydraDrive: efficient, smooth and flicker-free dimming
• Full dimming control: 100% to 0%, choice of dimming curve type
• High efficiency over a wide power and voltage range: 84% at full load
• Maximum (rated) power available over wide LED voltage and LED current range (200-1,050mA)
• NTC interface for robust thermal management per 4 LED outputs
• ShowMaster: 9 default shows, up to 20 user-defined shows, uploadable with TOOLbox and TOOLbox software
Click to expand...
Great link been downloading datasheets

★★★kushed_out★★★
 
medicinehuman

medicinehuman

Well-Known Member
I have a question for one of you LED smart fellow's. How do I add a capacitor to my 12v fans to give them a boost when starting. Where to add it is what I am unsure of. I'm trying to learn here but it is slow going for an old dog. I appreciate all of the help.
 
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