Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Pics or it didn't happen.no not high dude, I used to grow tomatoes heirloom included under plastic.
your tomatoes look like junk.
Pics or it didn't happen.no not high dude, I used to grow tomatoes heirloom included under plastic.
your tomatoes look like junk.
Thanks again Jorge!@palmetto420 You might want to go with individual heatsinks that you can spread out as your space grows. That's the only thing left you need to figure out.
If you want to go old school and easy you could get two 18 inch heatsinkusa bars, maybe the 4.6" serrated, two cobs on each and stick a 100mm fan or two on each heatsink.
Or individual sinks 12 inches a part on two fixtures, side by side for the small grow, and lengthwise for the 42"
Then you could build once and be done.
Did you already order those? I used them in my build, but I didn't mention them because they really aren't suitable to a CXB3590. I'm not sure there are suitable mounting holes, and it's definitely going to have a lot of air space behind the cob.Thanks again Jorge!
My plan is to go with your second idea. (2 fixtures, lights 12" apart)
It'll give me the flexibility that I'm looking for
These are the individual heat sinks that I ordered: https://www.cdiweb.com/PortalProductDetail.aspx?ProdId=574061&fmt=1
You might want to ask about returning anyway, all they can say is no. I actually don't know of anything suitable, which is why I mentioned heatsinkusa.I did and the order is non-returnable...
I guess I can always throw them on the bay.
The ones I wanted to get at Cutter are on back order with an eta of 5/16. Know of any other place that may have what I need in stock?
I was using a Vero 29 Decor for the numbers, and as always "lumens are for humans" as plants (and Decor series) have a lot of wavelengths outside the lumen area. The real deal for plants is PAR, but for any given LED PAR is directly proportional to lumens, I believe.You are right, Cree doesn't perform like that at high currents, it performs a lot better. There is something very off with those Vero numbers.
Talking about overvolting leds hurts my head, since we usually talk in terms of drive current for cobs, and then Vf becomes a function of temperature at that current.I was using a Vero 29 Decor for the numbers, and as always "lumens are for humans" as plants (and Decor series) have a lot of wavelengths outside the lumen area. The real deal for plants is PAR, but for any given LED PAR is directly proportional to lumens, I believe.
For all the modern high powered COB LED I've looked into a 4% increase* in Vf (typical) leads to:
~50% increase in LED current (A)
~55% increase in LED power (w)
~40% increase in radiant emissions (Lm or PAR)
~10% decrease in radiant efficiency (Lm/w, PAR/w)
There's no such thing as a free lunch, the 15% of power which doesn't go into radiant emissions goes to HEAT and must be dealt with. Feel free to check my numbers, the Bridgleux spec sheets include over voltages making this simpler.
* Bridgelux lists the Vf (max) of the Vero 29 as 106.3% of Vf (typical) so a 4% bump in Vf doesn't seem too crazy, if the heat is dealt with.
It came from @Airwalker16 and I'm not here to fight. I've already helped several people on different forums and I answer all the questions in my inbox and if I don't know I'll ask someone who does and then I'll give them solid advice. I've learned that some of guys don't know shit and act like you do. There are guys on here that know there shit and I read their post with the confidence they know their shit and a real help to this community. Wouldn't shit without their knowledge that they shared.I dunno where 2100 came from, I was talking about a 1400ma driver at 25%.
So drivers are more efficient when run at close to max. What are the real life consequences of running them more lightly loaded? A few watts lost?It came from @Airwalker16 and I'm not here to fight. I've already helped several people on different forums and I answer all the questions in my inbox and if I don't know I'll ask someone who does and then I'll give them solid advice. I've learned that some of guys don't know shit and act like you do. There are guys on here that know there shit and I read their post with the confidence they know their shit and a real help to this community. Wouldn't shit without their knowledge that they shared.
Yes had that problem with CXA3590 72v but not with the CXBs lolSo drivers are more efficient when run at close to max. What are the real life consequences of running them more lightly loaded? A few watts lost?
The real life consequences are provided by manufacturers in the datasheets.So drivers are more efficient when run at close to max. What are the real life consequences of running them more lightly loaded? A few watts lost?
So you're saying it'd be just fine to use a 2100 at 700ma dimmed with little consequences?The real life consequences are provided by manufacturers in the datasheets.
For instance, here is the HLG-185H load vs efficiency chart:
View attachment 3677681
At 115V the difference between lightly loaded at 25%, and maxed out is approximately 3%, or 1.5W total for a 50W grow.
Which is why I suggest you ignore all of the pointless dickwaving around here, and research things yourself.
By the way, any non-HLG Meanwell driver won't even match the 90% efficiency of this one loafing along at 25%.
I know you were talking about me and I won't say his name. You seem mad for no reason. What I say must don't mean shit and I just read what the real led gurus do Like @SupraSPL and @Greengenes707 they know their shit as well as @Rahz and @robincnn but you and @Airwalker16 are overnight pros and you need to relax. Not once have I called you or airwalker16 names. But I'm suppose to be mad yeah I'm not name calling.The real life consequences are provided by manufacturers in the datasheets.
For instance, here is the HLG-185H load vs efficiency chart:
View attachment 3677681
At 115V the difference between lightly loaded at 25%, and maxed out is approximately 3%, or 1.5W total for a 50W grow.
Which is why I suggest you ignore all of the pointless dickwaving around here, and research things yourself.
By the way, any non-HLG Meanwell driver won't even match the 90% efficiency of this one loafing along at 25%.
Who did I call names? This is pointless dickwaving, by the way. In case you were curious what it meant.I know you were talking about me and I won't say his name. You seem mad for no reason. What I say must don't mean shit and I just read what the real led gurus do Like @SupraSPL and @Greengenes707 they know their shit as well as @Rahz and @robincnn but you and @Airwalker16 are overnight pros and you need to relax. Not once have I called you or airwalker16 names. But I'm suppose to be mad yeah I'm not name calling.
Just reread what you typed. I have helped more people than you can imagine and yes efficiency is important. I hope you learn how important it is one dayWho did I call names? This is pointless dickwaving, by the way. In case you were curious what it meant.
You know, I had an account here before, and am quickly realizing why I left.
You just want to win an argument, not talk about the truth or help anybody. If you see a mistake, point it out and discuss it. Don't shit all over the thread bragging about owning THE MOST EFFICIENT COBS IN THE WORLD. We already know, you say it every chance you get.
Meanwhile, a guy asks if he can run his cobs dimmed down for the first couple months of his grow and the fucking must-run-every-driver-at-99.999999999999999-of-capacity brigade shows up and acts like a bunch of assholes reguritating information from all the people you just listed, without understanding any of it.