Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
that's the one , add a switch to the circrit & enjoy running @ 105+% or close the circit with the switch & use the dimmer
you would enjoy both worlds being able to dim & the option to run the driver @ max output
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
you would enjoy both worlds being able to dim & the option to run the driver @ max output
BioManFreak
New Member
thanks dude 
And if I want to use a switch, 700mA or 1050mA, which resistors are to chose? 100k Ohm for 700mA and a 50k Ohm for 1050mA? and for 1400mA without a resitor? thanks
And if I want to use a switch, 700mA or 1050mA, which resistors are to chose? 100k Ohm for 700mA and a 50k Ohm for 1050mA? and for 1400mA without a resitor? thanks
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Fastslappy
Well-Known Member
no resistor
simple pot then switch that completes the two leads
with the switch open the driver runs at Max Power close the switch & then the pot comes into play as your dimmer set it to 100% or set to 75 % but it will not run at max power(105+%) with the pot on the circuit
(they are just signal leads Not power leads )
simple pot then switch that completes the two leads
with the switch open the driver runs at Max Power close the switch & then the pot comes into play as your dimmer set it to 100% or set to 75 % but it will not run at max power(105+%) with the pot on the circuit
(they are just signal leads Not power leads )
pickledlsd
Member
Nice! Really glad I'm reading this forum. Lots of good information here. My light project starts tomorrow.
Isawthelight
Well-Known Member
Dimming controls the level of current being serially delivered to the LEDs. Dimming increases LED efficiency. Efficiency is inversely proportional to mAmp current. High currents make the temperature increase, Vf voltage of the LED decreases and this means LED power decreases due to Power = mAmp Current x Vf
Driver efficiency will decrease the dimmer you make it run.
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pop22
Well-Known Member
Does the increase in LED efficiency balance out the loss to the driver? or is there still a net loss, however small?
suggest you ignore most of the airheads. Use the apv-12-12 for the fan. its simple and robust and easy.
If after your done assembly and testing find that the apv-12-12 is blowing more air than needed, then get a lower voltage apv , maybe the v or the 5v and switch them. no harm and you can "optimize" later.
pickledlsd
Member
Thanks PurpleBuz. Most of my parts arrived today and the plan is to use the apv 12-12 and see how it works. Dawg is doing this with a very similar setup. I do appreciate the idea of the lower voltage apv if the 12-12 seems too much, we'll see what happens.
JuanCastro
Member
I was wondering what the opinions were on powering 9 CXB3590s? I am guessing that the answer I am going to hear would be to simply use 3 drivers. Not sure if there is a good way to use two or possibly one?
sanjuan
Well-Known Member
I'll assume you have the 36V version. Mean Well HLG-240H-C700 will drive 9 of those at a little under 25W each. The HLG-185H-C700 will drive 8. At that low power you probably don't need a fan if you have an appropriate heat sink.
JuanCastro
Member
Appreciate that. Looks like to drive them at 50W I will be buying 3 drivers.
sanjuan
Well-Known Member
Yeah, you're talking 450W. The HLG-185H-C1050 will drive 5 at about 36W each.
sanjuan
Well-Known Member
Yes. HLG-240H-C1400A dims to 50% with an internal pot. The "B" model can dim down to 10% with an external potentiometer or resistor.
giantsfan24
Well-Known Member
I'm at the cree product characterization tool. I've attached a screenshot and I'd like to know what the circled value means.
"LED W". Any help?
"LED W". Any help?
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Crees issue. Must have just happened...meaning they were fucking with it. The forward voltage column is a decimal off. So the total wattage is then off too
giantsfan24
Well-Known Member
Even on 6 cob's? Or did I misunderstand what LED multiple means?