DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

@SupraSPL
I assume it was your review on the fasttech website for the 120v drivers I got?

U tested one or more? to 150v, so I will be good with five vero10s in series.
~133v @ 0.28a so can use 22g wire as such low amps or?

Before I wire it up probably want to be sure. Havent done circuits in a while.

Make better sense to do 6x5 so 30 of them on on 50x36" mount or stick with 25? I could add a single row across the 5 heatsinks at one and they would be spaced 8" apart seems plenty as there so small. Or do all 35 on it? 18sqft.

TIA
 
I just put (4) CXA3070s in series with a 13V LED (~147Vf), hooked the string up to 4 different 18-36X1W drivers and all 4 drivers were AOK so you should have plenty of headroom with (5) Vero 10s.

22 ga should be OK for short runs although i have not tested it for voltage drop, I use 18 ga for just about everything on the DC side.
 
Thats a good question. I am testing the "dark energy" 12-18X1W size. It could drive 3 Vero 10s at 260mA with 89.5% efficiency with headroom to spare (89Vf max), but I cannot figure out where I got this one from. It does not match the picture on Fasttech. It is possible that it came inside an LED fixture.
DSC07934a.jpg

These would work, $2.41 ea although they are not the dark energy boards. These come with a case for $3.41 ea, or here for $3 ea, and they work work also (max Vf 80). They may put out less current and I am measuring a lower efficiency at high Vf range, 87.5%
 
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I just put (4) CXA3070s in series with a 13V LED (~147Vf), hooked the string up to 4 different 18-36X1W drivers and all 4 drivers were AOK so you should have plenty of headroom with (5) Vero 10s.

22 ga should be OK for short runs although i have not tested it for voltage drop, I use 18 ga for just about everything on the DC side.

Still waiting on drivers but I will try to run tests to see what I get.
Tonight am going to glue the COBs to fixture and wire them up. Found a bunch of 18g trailer wire that will use. Soldering to cobs as didnt get the molex connectors. May ground the fixture as u said just as a precaution.

Still cant decide if I should go with 30 on 6 drivers for this fixture as should be fine for heat or stick with just the 25 on five drivers. I might be fine with all 35 on it with slight breeze but no need to go over 25 if not needed. I just dont know.
'
Friend just came over saying need to put in 600w MH/HPS so really want to show him up with what these cobs can do.
 
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Thats a good question. I am testing the "dark energy" 12-18X1W size. It could drive 3 Vero 10s at 260mA with 89.5% efficiency with headroom to spare (89Vf max), but I cannot figure out where I got this one from. It does not match the picture on Fasttech. It is possible that it came inside an LED fixture.
View attachment 3333218

These would work, $2.41 ea although they are not the dark energy boards. These come with a case for $3.41 ea, or here for $3 ea, and they work work also (max Vf 80). They may put out less current and I am measuring a lower efficiency at high Vf range, 87.5%

Here are the Fasttech 12-18w's open case [Are these the "dark matter" 's?
http://www.fasttech.com/products/16...18-1w-85-277v-18w-high-power-constant-current

1714803-1.jpg


same as these with the case
http://www.fasttech.com/products/16...18-1w-85-277v-18w-high-power-constant-current
[my pic]
fast.jpg
What's interesting is that I just picked some of these off of Ebay....14-18x 3w [36-75v @ 600ma]. They were the highest rated efficiency out of cheapo drivers [90% w/95 pfc] and seem to be similar construction as the Fasttech boards...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Constant-Current-Driver-for-14-18pcs-3W-High-Power-LED-AC85-265V-
600mA/191472026292?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D27673%26meid%3D13f30735915248329749134938e668a4%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321445378659&rt=nc


WF089%20(3).JPG
 
I assume these Vero 10 cobs need to be hooked in series positive to negative. So hooking one up backward in a series is no good. ? Or DC so doesn't matter?
im sure it matters as would not have +/-.
hooked one up backwards as glued one on 180* upsidown by mistake.
 
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I assume these Vero 10 cobs need to be hooked in series positive to negative. So hooking one up backward in a series is no good. ? Or DC so doesn't matter?
im sure it matters as would not have +/-.
hooked one up backwards as glued one on 180* upsidown by mistake.
Yeah you don't want to hook them up backwards. Hopefully you didn't power it on.
 
Been awhile since I've checked this thread. Nice to see its still going strong a year later.

I stumbled across some interesting drivers that might work well for fans. Thought I'd share:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261653490178?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

At $1.59 each seems kind of hard to beat and gets away from using multiple wall sockets.
Just got these delivered yesterday. I haven't had time to do any real tests, but I did hook one up. Its keeping the heatsink barely above ambient temperature - its a 3070 @ 1.4A. I don't currently have the equipment to hook up 3 fans to a single driver or to be able to test it for efficiency. Hopefully I can get some of that information in the next couple days.

So far I can tell you at 1:1 driver/fan it keeps it noticeably cooler than a 12v .2a cell phone charger.
 
I'm interested in doing a flowering setup with 24 3000k 3070 ab's at 350mAh. I'm thinking a 3x3 area which puts it at about 15 par/sq ft. I wanted to use the 50-2234C ideal holders, but they're only rated to 250v/4amps. I'd like to use two HLG-120H-C350 to power 12 each, but if I'm to obey the ideal holder specs I must sacrifice a good deal of efficiency by splitting it into 3 or 4 smaller power supplies. At that point it'd be pointless and I might as well rethink it as a 500 or 700 mah unit.

Can the ideal holders withstand more than their specs let on at lower temps? They're rated to 110 C and I won't be anywhere near that. Probably wishful thinking. Should I just suck it up and abandon the handy holders?
 
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