DIY E-Nail

UrbanEtiquette

New Member
Does anyone know about how many AMPs the coil would be pulling with the PID/SRR at max draw (when turning it on, or the hugest of hits). The battery powered unit is quite easy to make if anyone knows the number, or toss the formula at me and Ill figure it out.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Sorry guys been switchin ISPs so shits been wonky. Im workin on the quartz and ti enail nails still ive just been swamped with the outdoor season.

I personally dont support humboldt enail because of his attitude. The guy goes around bitching at anyone who uses the auber 1/32 din or a small box. Like he invented the shit. Then he goes around and steals other peoples ideas like the flat coils and doesnt give anyone credit. I called him out on that and he blocked me like a bitch. Hes a bitch over charging just like everyone else making enails. Im glad china finally got involved because fuck all these people trying to rip people off. ESPECIALLY humboldt enail. Biggest bitch in the game. Dont doubt his enails nice but not any better than anyone else's. From what i can see he only autotunes his as well no actual PID settings put in. My shit reacts exactly the same as his and my coils probably even slightly different.

Save your money and build your own. TOOOOO easy. Workin on the DIY video as we speak like i said very busy outdoor season probablly have the video done by fall ish.

Hope everyone is gettin the help they need.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
@budbro18 Hey thanks for your DIY. I went and got the same parts just a different metal enclosure with more room. I have soldered everything together but I noticed that you did not put the connections for the switch in the power inlet/power switch combo. I've also blown two fuses already (10amp 250v) so I went ahead and got two more rated for 15 amps. I haven't used them yet since I want to figure out this connection issue first.
 

sfdabbin710

New Member
What fuse did you end up needing, like how many volts?
That's the one I'm goin off its a little different because the controller I'm getting is a little different on the back.

the fuse is part of the switch/power inlet so you just have to wire it between the power and the switch. Not 100% sure 10 amps is enough but it should be.

ive been lookin at some flat coils people were messin with for better heat dispersion for the infinity type nails. Looks promising.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
What fuse did you end up needing, like how many volts?
At the radio shack i went to there was a 6 amp 120v fuse. I figured thatd be good because the coil is only like 150-200w which is like 2 amps so i figured something would have to be crazy to blow even a 6 amp.

and sorry to anyone on instagram. my phone is messed up so i cant reply to comments and shit. once i fix it or get a new one ill be back on there.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
@budbro18 Hey thanks for your DIY. I went and got the same parts just a different metal enclosure with more room. I have soldered everything together but I noticed that you did not put the connections for the switch in the power inlet/power switch combo. I've also blown two fuses already (10amp 250v) so I went ahead and got two more rated for 15 amps. I haven't used them yet since I want to figure out this connection issue first.



heres the switch. the negative is connected to the brass pin on the switch and the positive comes in and straight through the fuse and out the red HOT connection that loops into the middle connection of the switch and comes out the top connection and into your coil/pid. same with the negative that comes off the inlet/switch. I wire nutted those to a single wire and wire nutted 2 other wires to that. one for the pid negative and one for the coil negative. ground only needed to be connected to the coil and if you want the SSR screw hole.

hope this helped.
 
Yes humboldt is quick to take others ideas. I came out with color pid with my design with auber. Posted a pic of units with color had him ask where I got it said me and auber were building units for release. Auber than 4 weeks later pid were released in color. Then when I was going to sign auber up to assemble my units they said the were planing on coming out with unit also. People like that will never advance game due to lack of integrity and karma. Most likey reason humboldt a are catching fire.
 

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budbro18

Well-Known Member
For real though ive been anti HUMBOLDT ENAILS since day 1. The guy/owner/creator is a punk bitch. Like you said DAB, always taking credit for others inventions. I called him out on the flat coils and it shut him up real quick because hes always postin peoples designs saying "this person ripped off my design"

Literally the first time i researched PIDs and DIY enail i found aubers website, then found the little PIDs, the started researchin if anyone used them and if they were as sturdy.

Thats the problem with Humboldts enails too, he uses small SSRs that cant handle the constant load of the coils. Thats why they suggest a 25A SSR when the coils only pullin a couple of amps. Without the large SSR it would build up heat quickly, increasing resistance, which is probably what blew the guys power button. The SSR was just askin for too much power and the plug couldnt support that heat/resistance. Especially if left on for a while which many of them are.

Last thing i saw the colored displays on the auber site the first time i researched. Well over a year ago maybe even more. I dont think its anything crazy because other companies make different colored ones so its one of those things where youre not really changing any of the mechanics just the appearance.
 

ewoksta

Active Member
Thanks for the information provided in this thread. I had originally ordered the MYPIN PID but upon discovering this thread...am going to return my MYPIN and have already ordered the Auber PID & SSR. Might as well invest in better components. Is wiring the same when it comes to the MYPIN and Auber?
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information provided in this thread. I had originally ordered the MYPIN PID but upon discovering this thread...am going to return my MYPIN and have already ordered the Auber PID & SSR. Might as well invest in better components. Is wiring the same when it comes to the MYPIN and Auber?

the numbers on the mypin are probably different, but on the auber it has each one marked what they are and will match with the wiring diagram i made.
 
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