DIY E-Nail

SP_IV

Member
Finished everything yesterday and it seems to work fine so far. Thanks again man.

All I did was run the auto tune at 600F and it's vaping nicely right now. But I did notice it over shot by about 30 degrees this morning when I turned it on. And drops 5 or 10 when I take a dab.

What pid settings have you found work best?
 

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budbro18

Well-Known Member
Ive only used the autotune to dial in mine. Mine is set to 700 and it over shoots by 15-16 then drops about 5-10 when i take a dab and use a carb cap. Without the carb cap it drops a little less. haha.

Ive been wantin to delve into PID settings but im not sure where to start. the autotune works so well for me and it has the exact same stats as the humboldt enail. 15 over shoot and about 5-10 drop on a dab.

I like the box too! I gotta get on my solder game with the XLRs. Might have to outsource it.
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Thats not bad itd be around 10 per month for me.

But heres the thing it only draws that 200w if that on start up. Once its up there it coasts into the PID wave pulsing a much lower amount of power through it. Im not sure exactly how much but thats the whole point of the PID algorithm is to fluctuate the current to hold a stable temp.

You probably know way more about that then me so i dont know why im sayin it haha.

Ive wanted to make my own vac oven of sorts because they seem easy ish. We have a ton of 304 stainless sheet metal and the abilities to make a solid one. Mount the heating element connect to the pid/ssr find a good place to put the thermocouple. Id probably make it like a giant vac pot but square. with the lid on top.

Back to the subject. I havent put it through its paces but it seemed to be solid. Ive tested my unit thoroughly but from what ive seen its the coil that fucks up first then depending on which SSR you get it can possibly fail if its too small. I like everything about the functionality of it. Easy to work with. Some people like the double row temp for set temp and current temp but i like it. Im also gonna start ordering them with different color front displays. haha.

The AI is perfect. I just uploaded a video for it and ill post it shortly.

Valid point, the coil is not actually on 24/7, because the controller pulses the power. It is on maybe 10% of the time.............

$14/Mo is 200W for 24/7.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Yupp its a weird thing. If i had a kill a watt id hook it up and read it during hits after hits when its idling when its heating up. thatd be some interesting shit to know.
 

SP_IV

Member
Yeah the auto tune definitley seems to work just fine. I was just curious if anyone had already messed with theirs yet. I'm just gonna run it the way it is for now haha.

But I installed a switch in my box to turn the power on/off to the coil. So when the switch is in off position the thermocouple is still reading but the heating element is off.
Which makes the pid think it needs to send a signal the entire time since it's sitting way below the set temp and won't heat.

I'm wondering if it constantly sending a signal could damage any internals in some way?

It's not even that useful I just kind of like having it display the temp even when it's off. Haha

Who knows if it's even something I'll use..
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Ive seen ones that do that but never saw a need for it in my design. I like to keep it simple. Thats why i went with the power inlet/switch/fuse combo. All in one no extra bullshit. haha It would help for initial start up and fuckin with it for people with the mypin controllers. They are set to a different thermocouple setting and have pre installed pid settings so it could possibly break your coil.

But for the auber its all good. Even though the standard temp is at like 500 it realizes the size of the heating element and adjusts accordingly.
 

michael potter

New Member
its a lot to take in i started with the growing and my reguler life then the edibles then the bho for edibles then the growing tracking down every inexpensive other grower then the breeding then the vac oven shit and finding glass and nails and then oil rigs now im on this shit and i thank you for makeing it so much easier,,,,i have made custom fiberglass enclosures before but im also thinking of how a nice pice of billet would look for a case with a machined oil rig coaster as it were on top...maybe a multi holder for different size rig bases idk just brainstorming and looking for your final parts list
 

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
Yeah the auto tune definitley seems to work just fine. I was just curious if anyone had already messed with theirs yet. I'm just gonna run it the way it is for now haha.

But I installed a switch in my box to turn the power on/off to the coil. So when the switch is in off position the thermocouple is still reading but the heating element is off.
Which makes the pid think it needs to send a signal the entire time since it's sitting way below the set temp and won't heat.

I'm wondering if it constantly sending a signal could damage any internals in some way?

It's not even that useful I just kind of like having it display the temp even when it's off. Haha

Who knows if it's even something I'll use..
Our Mypin autotune worked.

Interrupting the signal to the SSR with a switch, doesn't hurt the controller. We didn't put one in our first complete build, but did on the second mockup.

The only real advantage that I can see, is that it lets you read coil temperature during cool down. More advanced than a wet finger.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Dont the coils cool down surprisingly fast though FD! Thats what i noticed at least. Especially if youre on a quartz enail domeless.

As for the billet aluminum id love to make one out of all that but to keep mine inexpensive i decided to go without it. Maybe if i start ordering things in bigger bulk and getting discounts on them ill save enough to justify the cost but until then i wont be able to for my.
 

SP_IV

Member
Our Mypin autotune worked.

Interrupting the signal to the SSR with a switch, doesn't hurt the controller. We didn't put one in our first complete build, but did on the second mockup.

The only real advantage that I can see, is that it lets you read coil temperature during cool down. More advanced than a wet finger.
Pretty much this. Haha

As I kind of thought there really isn't a need for the switch. But like you said you can see it cooling down which is kind of useful if you want to know when it's safe to remove your coil or nail.

Or I guess if you just wanted a thermometer for the room your in when your unit is off haha

I think I'm going to build another soon and I doubt i will wire in the extra switch this time.
 

dabKling

New Member
PID Controller: Auber 1/32 Universal Controller - $37.56

Solid State Relay: Auber 25A SSR - $15.00

Project Box (plastic): Ebay 6.25 x 3.75 x 2.4 - $10.00 (after shipping)

Power Input+switch: Ebay AC10A 250V - $6.40

6' Power Cord: Ebay Power Cord - $5.95 (any length available)

Mini XLR Female: Ebay Mini XLRf - $3.00

Mini XLR Male: Ebay Mini XLRm - $3.00

25' 16 awg wire: Ebay 16awg - $9.95

Misc. Connectors/heatshrink - ~$10

16mm Coil: China - $75 (PM me for coils)

So about $100 for the internals plus or minus a few bucks for some shipping i might have forgotten.

I can easily knock it down to about $75 or lower once i buy some of the parts from china. That power inlet/switch was $7 alone when they have em for less than a buck from china. Also the wire i bought is enough for about 10 boxes so that will go a long way.

I just didnt want to wait 1-3 weeks for my parts to slowly trickle in so i bought from ebay sellers within the US.

Gotta grab a soldering iron and some solder from harbor freight but thats not really included in the cost since most people have them and id just ask a friend to borrow one if i wasnt planning on making multiple.

Thats everything besides the nail but thats your choice. Theres a few good ones out there and i have yet to narrow down which one i am going to get.

Should have one built by next monday i hope if everything comes in by friday/saturday so be ready for the video.
soooo.....I remember a few months ago when I initially researched this through the reddit post, and it seemed that it was impossible to find coils?

How is sourcing all these parts right now? Is this list still accurate and complete 11 pages and a couple months later? I would be happy to spend money with budbro, but he seems to be germinating success here. Also I have a set of ginger twin electricians who I plan to enslave..

Not only Budbro, but all of you who have followed and done your own, thank you so much, this is what community and making a living is all about!

Not to mention gettin blasted on dabs~~~
 

LiquidJunglist

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing Humboldt E-Nail cracked the battery powered enail door wide opened. He posted some vids and a pic of the prototype. Hope he post some assembly pics. I'm curious about the amount and type of batteries powering the enail. It should be almost the same other then wiring the battery power up.
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing Humboldt E-Nail cracked the battery powered enail door wide opened. He posted some vids and a pic of the prototype. Hope he post some assembly pics. I'm curious about the amount and type of batteries powering the enail. It should be almost the same other then wiring the battery power up.

Its no secret technology. Just have to wire the batteries the right way into the a dc enail. I could make one that you could plug into a car cigarette lighter pretty easily. Same with the batteries i just dont have the money to invest in the Lipos and time to test it out thoroughly. Ive seen some people make enails in small pelican cases. I though those were pretty cool. Might make one of those. Still wanna make a wood one one of these days for my own personal one.
 

LiquidJunglist

Well-Known Member
Oh I know it's not secret tech I'm just saying now everyone is going to make one. ^_^ that's what I meant with wide open. Lol. But I am curious the type of battery he is using?
 

budbro18

Well-Known Member
Hell yeah ive seen a few people who already made them in the pelican cases too. Id assume Lipos in series but you could honestly even use those big 9 volt batteries in flashlight in series probably. As long as you have the current within the min and max that the PID/SSR calls for youre good just gotta work on total storage and what that equates to in time.

I personally probably wont be making a battery one because ive found some good pens that get me along just fine and smoke alot of blunts with oil in em. I just like makin shit haha.

Honestly if you messaged auber and told them you wanted to make a "mobile soldering station" or "portable water heater" thats battery powered with one of their PIDs/SSRs they could probably give you instructions on how to do it.
 
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