Thats not bad itd be around 10 per month for me.
But heres the thing it only draws that 200w if that on start up. Once its up there it coasts into the PID wave pulsing a much lower amount of power through it. Im not sure exactly how much but thats the whole point of the PID algorithm is to fluctuate the current to hold a stable temp.
You probably know way more about that then me so i dont know why im sayin it haha.
Ive wanted to make my own vac oven of sorts because they seem easy ish. We have a ton of 304 stainless sheet metal and the abilities to make a solid one. Mount the heating element connect to the pid/ssr find a good place to put the thermocouple. Id probably make it like a giant vac pot but square. with the lid on top.
Back to the subject. I havent put it through its paces but it seemed to be solid. Ive tested my unit thoroughly but from what ive seen its the coil that fucks up first then depending on which SSR you get it can possibly fail if its too small. I like everything about the functionality of it. Easy to work with. Some people like the double row temp for set temp and current temp but i like it. Im also gonna start ordering them with different color front displays. haha.
The AI is perfect. I just uploaded a video for it and ill post it shortly.
Our Mypin autotune worked.Yeah the auto tune definitley seems to work just fine. I was just curious if anyone had already messed with theirs yet. I'm just gonna run it the way it is for now haha.
But I installed a switch in my box to turn the power on/off to the coil. So when the switch is in off position the thermocouple is still reading but the heating element is off.
Which makes the pid think it needs to send a signal the entire time since it's sitting way below the set temp and won't heat.
I'm wondering if it constantly sending a signal could damage any internals in some way?
It's not even that useful I just kind of like having it display the temp even when it's off. Haha
Who knows if it's even something I'll use..
Pretty much this. HahaOur Mypin autotune worked.
Interrupting the signal to the SSR with a switch, doesn't hurt the controller. We didn't put one in our first complete build, but did on the second mockup.
The only real advantage that I can see, is that it lets you read coil temperature during cool down. More advanced than a wet finger.
soooo.....I remember a few months ago when I initially researched this through the reddit post, and it seemed that it was impossible to find coils?PID Controller: Auber 1/32 Universal Controller - $37.56
Solid State Relay: Auber 25A SSR - $15.00
Project Box (plastic): Ebay 6.25 x 3.75 x 2.4 - $10.00 (after shipping)
Power Input+switch: Ebay AC10A 250V - $6.40
6' Power Cord: Ebay Power Cord - $5.95 (any length available)
Mini XLR Female: Ebay Mini XLRf - $3.00
Mini XLR Male: Ebay Mini XLRm - $3.00
25' 16 awg wire: Ebay 16awg - $9.95
Misc. Connectors/heatshrink - ~$10
16mm Coil: China - $75 (PM me for coils)
So about $100 for the internals plus or minus a few bucks for some shipping i might have forgotten.
I can easily knock it down to about $75 or lower once i buy some of the parts from china. That power inlet/switch was $7 alone when they have em for less than a buck from china. Also the wire i bought is enough for about 10 boxes so that will go a long way.
I just didnt want to wait 1-3 weeks for my parts to slowly trickle in so i bought from ebay sellers within the US.
Gotta grab a soldering iron and some solder from harbor freight but thats not really included in the cost since most people have them and id just ask a friend to borrow one if i wasnt planning on making multiple.
Thats everything besides the nail but thats your choice. Theres a few good ones out there and i have yet to narrow down which one i am going to get.
Should have one built by next monday i hope if everything comes in by friday/saturday so be ready for the video.
I'm guessing Humboldt E-Nail cracked the battery powered enail door wide opened. He posted some vids and a pic of the prototype. Hope he post some assembly pics. I'm curious about the amount and type of batteries powering the enail. It should be almost the same other then wiring the battery power up.