Deficiencies During Late Flowering

medidedicated said:

Late flower is when my plant IME get sensative the most to mold, nutes, light and etc. I wouldn’t ever let it dry since it killed all my leaves and that was the only thing wrong. It wont rot in the media from being wet. Like I said even when fully saturated, it isn’t that wet.

I haven’t heard of root rot in coco. I heard it with dwc or soil but not coco. Using h202 or pool shock in your solution will keep your media/resivoir sterile from algae and etc.

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Cool - I'm going to keep this in mind now and for future grows, I will definitely go back to using my drippers and ensure the coco is kept moist at all times! I think the biggest issue is I don't allow enough run-off. I always manage to FUCK THIS UP. When I'm late flowering, and I check the EC of the runoff, I'm always through the roof. Last grow I got up to 7.2 EC Even with all the fuck-ups, I still got a very good yield last time.

I think the biggest issue is I get lazy after spending all the time vegging them, and I "let them go" during flowering. I'm a bad plant parent..

You mentioned pool shock - I've seen this a few times, is this simply Calcium Hypochlorite or something else? We don't have Pool Shock here in Australia, but we've got some other similar products containing Calcium Hypochlorite.

I see Pythoff (which I've been using - it smells like chlorine), is simply MonoChloramine. I don't believe this can be easily purchased here?

Are there any recommended dose ranges that anyone recommends?

Hollatchaboy said:

This run, I've been experimenting with setting my timer to auto water every 3 hours, for 10 seconds. It's been that way for a month and a half, no problems. Think about dwc, where the roots are in nutrient solution, at all times.

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Nice, I suppose as long as there's some amount of runoff every so often, it'll help to prevent salt build-up in the root-zone. Or perhaps I've just been running too-high of an EC to begin with (1.8 - 2.0 EC)..

I forgot to mention this but it may be helpful, coconut is a seed naturally designed to not hold too much water to avoid water logging so it can safely grow. That is why it cannot be overwatered.

medidedicated said:

I forgot to mention this but it may be helpful, coconut is a seed naturally designed to not hold too much water to avoid water logging so it can safely grow. That is why it cannot be overwatered.

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But when I feed my plants, it holds A LOT of water... Am I using cheap/shit coco then? When I feed the plants, the pots become super heavy. It holds A LOT of water.

RockStonedJesus said:

Cool - I'm going to keep this in mind now and for future grows, I will definitely go back to using my drippers and ensure the coco is kept moist at all times! I think the biggest issue is I don't allow enough run-off. I always manage to FUCK THIS UP. When I'm late flowering, and I check the EC of the runoff, I'm always through the roof. Last grow I got up to 7.2 EC Even with all the fuck-ups, I still got a very good yield last time.

I think the biggest issue is I get lazy after spending all the time vegging them, and I "let them go" during flowering. I'm a bad plant parent..

You mentioned pool shock - I've seen this a few times, is this simply Calcium Hypochlorite or something else? We don't have Pool Shock here in Australia, but we've got some other similar products containing Calcium Hypochlorite.

I see Pythoff (which I've been using - it smells like chlorine), is simply MonoChloramine. I don't believe this can be easily purchased here?

Are there any recommended dose ranges that anyone recommends?


Nice, I suppose as long as there's some amount of runoff every so often, it'll help to prevent salt build-up in the root-zone. Or perhaps I've just been running too-high of an EC to begin with (1.8 - 2.0 EC)..

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Woah 7.0 ? haha. For runoff, just make sure it flows for 1-2 mins, just plentiful but not too much considering it will be watered again soon. That isn’t as important as watering frequently enough which is why the EC is so high. Runoff EC should be closer to inflow EC but higher since it is flushing salts out.

I never used pool shock, I bought a bag but was using h2o2 to get rid of it since I have a few bottles. H202 is more expensive which is why I was switching to pool shock but quit growing in coco for a while right then and there. So I do not know but 1ml of h2o2 per gallon was good enough to have good results (media clean and resivoir smells clean.)

RockStonedJesus said:

But when I feed my plants, it holds A LOT of water... Am I using cheap/shit coco then? When I feed the plants, the pots become super heavy. It holds A LOT of water.

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RockStonedJesus said:

But when I feed my plants, it holds A LOT of water... Am I using cheap/shit coco then? When I feed the plants, the pots become super heavy. It holds A LOT of water.

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I find during flower, my plants will drink a lot more so when i feed the pots get heavy but later in the day, u can feel them much lighter. Id by the next day, they still feel heavy then u may be overwatering a bit. During veg, I hand water since i have more control that way. I dont saturate the media too much when they are young or recently transplanted. During those dry backs is when the roots grow outward lookijg for water so if they are always wet, they won’t expend energy expanding the roots

RockStonedJesus said:

But when I feed my plants, it holds A LOT of water... Am I using cheap/shit coco then? When I feed the plants, the pots become super heavy. It holds A LOT of water.

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Yea it will be heavy and holding water at all times, that is normal.

Here is a photo of a decent canopy gone bad from letting it get bone dry over night since I was hand watering. I automated too late. Some long time growers said it was dry back. Would never allow dry back again as shown, it ruined a whole canopy.

I would not be suprised if letting it dry back slightly dry would cause minor leaf issues. I put too big a light inside tent so it foxtailed but this is about the leaves.

medidedicated said:

Woah 7.0 ? haha. For runoff, just make sure it flows for 1-2 mins, just plentiful but not too much considering it will be watered again soon. That isn’t as important as watering frequently enough which is why the EC is so high. Runoff EC should be closer to inflow EC but higher since it is flushing salts out.

I never used pool shock, I bought a bag but was using h2o2 to get rid of it since I have a few bottles. H202 is more expensive which is why I was switching to pool shock but quit growing in coco for a while right then and there. So I do not know but 1ml of h2o2 per gallon was good enough to have good results (media clean and resivoir smells clean.)

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Yeah man... Somehow I haven't managed to completely kill things, strange, huh?

dwc420letsgo said:

I find during flower, my plants will drink a lot more so when i feed the pots get heavy but later in the day, u can feel them much lighter. Id by the next day, they still feel heavy then u may be overwatering a bit. During veg, I hand water since i have more control that way. I dont saturate the media too much when they are young or recently transplanted. During those dry backs is when the roots grow outward lookijg for water so if they are always wet, they won’t expend energy expanding the roots

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Eh, these babies don't tend to drink much - it's now two days after feeding my plants and the pots are still really heavy... I've got temps sitting above 26 degrees celcius most of the time, and I try to keep humidity levels around 50-55% at these higher temps. Perhaps I need to drop the humidity. I was trying to follow a VPD chart, but I suppose I also need to be measuring leaf temperature in order to optimally tune-in VPD?

medidedicated said:

Yea it will be heavy and holding water at all times, that is normal.

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Right... I always thought it was NOT OK for the pots to be super heavy, I honestly thought it was smothering the roots. Interesting. I'm going to keep the pots saturated as much as I can from now till harvest.

medidedicated said:

Here is a photo of a decent canopy gone bad from letting it get bone dry over night since I was hand watering. I automated too late. Some long time growers said it was dry back. Would never allow dry back again as shown, it ruined a whole canopy.

I would not be suprised if letting it dry back slightly dry would cause minor leaf issues. I put too big a light inside tent so it foxtailed but this is about the leaves.

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Oh, the poor fox-tailing. I've had a few plants fox-tail in the past. Nothing this bad though.

I've uploaded some photos, a few of the overall canopy, and a few up-close from some leaves I've taken off. There is something funky going on, it seems to be getting worse and worse. Damn it! I might drop humidity to be safe, probably chuck another dehumidifier in the room to bring it down, is it likely to be a fungal infection of some sort? I assume so...

I also have a few funny leafs which have a hooked leaf, looks similar to Mosaic Virus.... Thoughts?

Here are some more pics with tent lights off!

RockStonedJesus said:

Yeah man... Somehow I haven't managed to completely kill things, strange, huh?



Eh, these babies don't tend to drink much - it's now two days after feeding my plants and the pots are still really heavy... I've got temps sitting above 26 degrees celcius most of the time, and I try to keep humidity levels around 50-55% at these higher temps. Perhaps I need to drop the humidity. I was trying to follow a VPD chart, but I suppose I also need to be measuring leaf temperature in order to optimally tune-in VPD?



Right... I always thought it was NOT OK for the pots to be super heavy, I honestly thought it was smothering the roots. Interesting. I'm going to keep the pots saturated as much as I can from now till harvest.



Oh, the poor fox-tailing. I've had a few plants fox-tail in the past. Nothing this bad though.

I've uploaded some photos, a few of the overall canopy, and a few up-close from some leaves I've taken off. There is something funky going on, it seems to be getting worse and worse. Damn it! I might drop humidity to be safe, probably chuck another dehumidifier in the room to bring it down, is it likely to be a fungal infection of some sort? I assume so...

I also have a few funny leafs which have a hooked leaf, looks similar to Mosaic Virus.... Thoughts?

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My pot was bone dry and very light between waterings so the leaves died quickly within 30 days. They started gradual like yours. Perhaps faster since it was probably way more dry then you let yours get.

Nice set up! Very large. VPD I don’t follow anymore. Plants veg nicely at any RH and just try to get rh as low as possible in mid/late flower and ripe which is about 40% RH or lower to fight against mold.

medidedicated said:

My pot was bone dry and very light between waterings so the leaves died quickly within 30 days. They started gradual like yours. Perhaps faster since it was probably way more dry then you let yours get.

Nice set up! Very large. VPD I don’t follow anymore. Plants veg nicely at any RH and just try to get rh as low as possible in mid/late flower and ripe which is about 40% RH or lower to fight against mold.

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I'll definitely keep into it the watering from now on, hopefully it can somewhat recover. I have noticed, the next day after I water the plants, they have responded so well, with noticeable increases in flower size. People who spend hundreds on the expensive nutrients are fools, I've been able to keep this simple and I've started slowly transitioning away from store bought nutes and using raw elements, I've had great results this far, and I think my issues are down to underwatering.

Bottles of CalMag are like $25-40 a litre here, or, I can get 25 kilos of Calcium Nitrate and Magnesium (Nitrate or Sulfate) for $60 a bag, on the higher end. That's a lifetime supply. Same with monopotassium phosphate, about $100 for 25 kilos, store stuff is like $250+ for 5kg.

I noticed maybe 1 or two flying insects. There's nothing in the coco I can find, and nothing under or on-top of the leaves.

Is there ANY CHANCE that a couple of small flying insects could cause A LOT of damage? Or are my leaf issues most likely nutrient issues/drying out coco/fungal issue? There's no way a couple of tiny flying insects could cause that much damage. I've had infestations in past houses we've lived in, which has caused MUCH more damage - the mother fuckers ended up in the flowers and everything.

Hey guys, I've got a bit of an EMERGENCY dilemma. I'm noticing there is some kind of possible infection spreading throughout the plants? I am not too sure. I've taken some more photos, possible fungal infection? I am not too sure. The leaves seem to be dying back, I don't think it's powdery mildew as it doesn't seem to be on the surface. Could it simply be a major calcium lockout? Hoping someone can let me know ASAP as it seems to be rapidly progressing, and I'll need to toss up whether to pull or leave it for now.

looks like thrips to me. i think i even see some on veins of the leafs.

xbiox said:

looks like thrips to me. i think i even see some on veins of the leafs.

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FUCK. You're right. FUCK FUCK FUCK!

I had a harder and closer look. I didn't fucking realize how tiny these pricks are!

Fucking absolute little c**nts! I didn't even see them, even though I've checked the leaves multiple times. They've absolutely destroyed my plants.

I'm going to check some quick remedies, though does anyone have recommendations to kill the fuckers? I'm thinking of dumping CO2 in the room for 24-48 hours, will that work? I'm in the late flowering cycle, so I need to be quick about my actions.

Just looked into it, unfortunately CO2 treatment probably won't work - studies show I'd need at least 30% CO2 levels for 24 hours to kill all thrips. This simply isn't viable, and is extremely unsafe. So I don't think that's going to be a viable option.

If anyone has some tips for treating thrips during late flowering, I'm all ears - I've added about 11 large yellow sticky pads throughout the grow space, in hopes to deter them from the plants. I am not sure if it's going to be effective, if at all, but it doesn't hurt.

If there are no solutions, I'll most likely have to pull the plants quite soon, as I don't want them to damage the flowers... Or do they only consume the leaves?

RockStonedJesus said:

Just looked into it, unfortunately CO2 treatment probably won't work - studies show I'd need at least 30% CO2 levels for 24 hours to kill all thrips. This simply isn't viable, and is extremely unsafe. So I don't think that's going to be a viable option.

If anyone has some tips for treating thrips during late flowering, I'm all ears - I've added about 11 large yellow sticky pads throughout the grow space, in hopes to deter them from the plants. I am not sure if it's going to be effective, if at all, but it doesn't hurt.

If there are no solutions, I'll most likely have to pull the plants quite soon, as I don't want them to damage the flowers... Or do they only consume the leaves?

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Athena IPM or some neem oil product

i dunno if I’d smoke that even after a bud wash tho

dwc420letsgo said:

Athena IPM or some neem oil product

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Thanks! I might be able to get my hands on Athena IPM - however, is it fine to use during flowering? Without a doubt I will be spraying my buds, which I kind of want to avoid.

dwc420letsgo said:

i dunno if I’d smoke that even after a bud wash tho

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Do you mean when sprayed with IPM or neem oil?

I was looking into possibly nuking the thrips with ozone? Have you, or anyone else read anything on ozone? I see a few people have questioned it, but so far, I haven't found any rock-solid results. At this point, I'd be best off running ozone for an hour or two at a high PPM, during night, to hopefully nuke some of the thrips... Thoughts anyone?

RockStonedJesus said:

Thanks! I might be able to get my hands on Athena IPM - however, is it fine to use during flowering? Without a doubt I will be spraying my buds, which I kind of want to avoid.


Do you mean when sprayed with IPM or neem oil?

I was looking into possibly nuking the thrips with ozone? Have you, or anyone else read anything on ozone? I see a few people have questioned it, but so far, I haven't found any rock-solid results. At this point, I'd be best off running ozone for an hour or two at a high PPM, during night, to hopefully nuke some of the thrips... Thoughts anyone?

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Some people wash their buds after harvest to remove bugs/dust/contam. Never had thrips but had a bad fungus gnat infestation and even that grossed me out to not smoke them. I guess as a last resort do a bud wash and then try making ice water hash out of it… my $.02