def while flowering w/pics

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Whoa there, what type of lime is that?

I religiously use dolomite lime nothing else. I tried hydrated lime once and always ended in fail, stuffs too hot in more ways than one. I cannot advise on this product and dolomite lime will take a while to kick in. Dont they supply some kind of pelletised lime for gardeners thats quick acting. Look around and find some threads too for your options. I just use one tablespoon fine grade or powdered dolomite lime per gallon of soil when i make my soil mix and thats all i ever do. Peace
 

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
haha its not lime.....

and i thought the hydrated was the fast acting...im sure ive done my homework at one point or another but ive had alot of new thigns in my life popping up over the years haha and has taking me away from this little by little.
also it was aid that seaweed has to decomposs first...ive seen videos on youtube of how some people make the seaweed ferts...
there isnt anyway to like boil it down and extract it and then add it too a tea to brew with benies and fungis?
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
I dont know about the seaweed i just know that it is not straight forward to prepare, needs salts and things removing first, think it takes quite a while before you can make a tea but look into it, it may be possible, store bought liquid seaweed is very cheap and available though, would save a lot of effort and last like forever. Peace
 

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
It is therefore clear that while seaweed, in common with all organic matter, is beneficial to soil and plant, it has to be broken down, or decomposed, before its benefits are available. (I have already pointed out, but repeat it here, that liquid seaweed extract is not subject to this latent period. The nutrients and other substances it contains are available to the plant at once.)


does this mean that if you were to slow cook seaweed and then strain it you could use this instantly?
i guess ill youtube extracting lol
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
It is therefore clear that while seaweed, in common with all organic matter, is beneficial to soil and plant, it has to be broken down, or decomposed, before its benefits are available. (I have already pointed out, but repeat it here, that liquid seaweed extract is not subject to this latent period. The nutrients and other substances it contains are available to the plant at once.)


does this mean that if you were to slow cook seaweed and then strain it you could use this instantly?
i guess ill youtube extracting lol
Maybe dude and i admire your efforts, i think they let it sit and dry and boil for extended periods of time. They need to remove the salt plus few other things and making an extract is the easier way around it of the top of my head. The info is available on google and youtube, do they soak it for a couple of months first?

If you do manage to come up with a way to make a quick seaweed tea that actually works please post the results on a thread for members to scrutinise, certainly an intresting subject since a lot of us have access to the beach and free seaweed, still i think it might be tricky to do.
Peace
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Ah yer lime pellets, i not seen them in the uk yet but i believe they are used by a lot of growers in the US, it is just powdered lime in pellet form i think, being a powder means it works very quick. You have to find a US grower that uses them for application rates but of the top of my head in previous lime related discussions i think you still use 1 tablespoon to one gallon of soil or 1 teaspoon per litre of soil wether you are imperial or metric.

Please find a US grower or someone who has used these lime pellets if thats what they are and take advice from them. I cannot advise any futher but i believe lots use these. Check with them that you actually have lime pellets or powdered lime in pellet/granullar form. Peace
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Calcitic lime from what i can see. But i really am unsure here as i use the dolomite. Peace

''Encap Fast Acting Lime is not a hydrated lime also known as slaked lime. Hydrated lime also acts quickly but is completely different. Hydrated lime is calcium hydroxide while Encap Fast Acting Lime is made of calcium carbonate which is what is normal, pelletized lime. It won't risk burning your lawn the way hydrated lime might.''


Yes it is pelletized lime.

Heres a link for application rates on soil but needs reducing down, like in pounds and square foot. -

http://diyorganiclawncare.blogspot.com/2009/05/encap-fast-acting-lime-review.html
 

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
just to update without reading really fast...pistils still brown and red,calyxes swelling, yellowing from bottom slowed and bunch. look at the crystals and they are clear and clousy. this is indca dom strain

still no new sign of calyses or any new pistils
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Give it time, if the calyxs are still swelling and the yellowing is stopping then it is a good sign. Peace
 

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
not much new growth still, just a few little white pistiles at the tips....whos down with me giving a final flush tomorrow, if it hurts it hurts cause im about to pull early if it doesnt push any new growth out overnight
 

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
the yellowing and the halftwist of those leaves? there are ones that are the same color but grow normaly.what is this virus and whats it caused from? cause i have other plants like peppers that are in the soil with same nutes and they are completely fine
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
I'm surprised no one suggested mosaic virus to explain the twisting & marbling appearance on the leaves.
Because its definatly not tomato mosaic virus neither fusariam/vert wilt either, plant would be dying bad by now, just dont panic as its the worst thing a gardener can do.

In a short space of time you considered pH problems now viruses, sit back and relax dude, rome wasnt built in a night, if you dont take your time to work out what is wrong you'll only get to this stage on the next grow and panic again.

New growth happens in waves when flowering, nothing for a week then bang tons of new pistils all over. Peace
 

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
Because its definatly not tomato mosaic virus neither fusariam/vert wilt either, plant would be dying bad by now, just dont panic as its the worst thing a gardener can do.

In a short space of time you considered pH problems now viruses, sit back and relax dude, rome wasnt built in a night, if you dont take your time to work out what is wrong you'll only get to this stage on the next grow and panic again.

New growth happens in waves when flowering, nothing for a week then bang tons of new pistils all over. Peace
I was referring to tobacco mosaic virus, the one cannabis is susceptible to. I have heard of people transferring it by touching their plants after infected cigarettes. Its late enough in flower to where you dont have to worry about it much(if this is even what you do have). Its rarely deadly, they just dont thrive as well as a normal plant would, unpleasant to look at, contagious to other plants. I have encountered them on some feminised seeds which may have weaker defenses.

King of hearts- did you grow this plant from seed or is it a verified cutting?
heres an example of mosaic virus:
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Yep, the tobacco mosaic virus manages to survive the processing process when cigarettes are made hence why they say dont let tobacco come into contact with your plants but is quite a virilant virus and one you'd know you had when you got it. I wouldn't say he has in this case and i have had this on outdoor plants before, they never really pull through and eventually suffer badly. Peace
 

thegreensurfer

Well-Known Member
the yellowing and the halftwist of those leaves? there are ones that are the same color but grow normaly.what is this virus and whats it caused from? cause i have other plants like peppers that are in the soil with same nutes and they are completely fine

peppers i believe dont contract it but i may be wrong, sometimes twisting can be caused from a calcium deficiency as well because of the cell division malfunction.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Your on the right track dude, most likely deficiency. Peppers are very resistant to low nutrients and drought too, an easy grow to get right just give a small amount of water and ferts and bound to do well. The lime shouldnt hurt but i didnt think it was a pH problem although often adjusting the pH slightly will allow a greater uptake of nutrients. He's made his play so see how it goes, dont change or add too many things at once.

I see two threads on this problem so i'll stick here and hopefully the other will progress in different ways, patience is definatly a virtue with weed. Peace
 

KingofHearts2die4

Active Member
im giving it time, i fluffed out about half a gallon of soil off the top, not really bothering and roots, and i put a couple tsps of the lime mixed in to it and redistributed it back on top....now i think im just gonna do water and molasses til the end

my only concern to this is even though i mixed in the nutrients and you seemed to think it was over fed or nute build up, my run off isnt cloudy or dirty or really anything, any take on thinking its underfed...its not a big plant so i doubt that it ate it all.let me know your final thoughts
 
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