CXB 3590 CB Build

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
I, on the other hand, never flush. Cant see why, the stuff is stored in the leaves and I think youd haveseriously overfeed them for nutes to be stored in what we smoke, the buuuuds. Then again, I do hempy buckets and feel they finish out the best and most handsomely when fed throughout the entire grow. Im easy on my nutes at alls though. I think the curing and drying and all that is much more important than flushing. And again, Im no biologist nor anything, just my 2 cents. I enjoy your thread :) Hope you are enjoying your light as Im soon ordering some CXB 3070s to make a new little cabinet :) Thank you for sharing.
vous avez tort, Pequeñin Jacub :)
Bonjour
Je ne pense pas avoir tort tête de ben du 8/9
Everyone do how they feel it...
But since i grow organic...i put my pots in a bath and i water plants since the water is "clear" a big week (8/9 days) before cut...and i have a good tasty weed (for frog legs eaters...lol!)
but for the chemical and cheap (tripack ghe!) nutes i use to use it was 15 days...
Are you sure there is no chemicals left in the plants??? Monsanto say the same...and we all know that (most of)vegetables and fruits have some in!
Anyway i would not advice anyone to not flush mineral nutes.
Have a great day★
 

bruce786

Well-Known Member
Try running your ph around 6.0 -6.2 during veg and 1st and 2nd wk flower slowly drop to 5.6
Adding more mag wont help.Need to unlock it:smile:
Ever thought about using aminos early flower?
Love the CXBs BTW!
Hey man thanks for commenting, i dont adjust my ph at all. My base is advanced nutrients PH perfect sensi A + B. I can't remember the last time ive touched my PH... not for 18months atleast. In your opinion you think its magnesium lockout?
Yes ive done extensive research on amino acids and know of a few PGRs that i will be implementing very soon. Cob leds kind of took me off track as i decided to venture down the new effecient lighting route then the perfect nutrient package. I know of a product that is used in marine environments that has 18 amino acids with some micro nutrients. I ran beneficial bacteria in hydro which i thought had great affects on the roots but just decided to simplify stuff down.

The thing is cobs really open up some serious nutrient testing for me with single low power lighting units. I have already purchased enough cobs for another 15 bars (60 cxbs) because i like what im seeing. For cobs to be viable i only need to yield an additonal 2oz per 600w system roughly 15oz per light. Realistically id like to hit somewhere around 18oz-20oz that would be very impressive compared to what im used to with HPS.
 

benbud89

Well-Known Member
I would have to say the Bridgelux vero is more convenient because they have integrated holders, the Cree CXA/CXB require a separate COB holder but with either choice you will need at least a power drill and tap or you can always take it to a local machine shop and get them to do it at a cost of course. The other choice and some people won't recommend it is to attach the cob to heatsink with your thermal paste and use kapton tape to help hold it in place. Last but not least you can use a thermal epoxy but don't expect to remove the COB once it's installed. The last two methods require no power tools.
The arctic silver thermal adhesive would be just fine for this? Since Im doing it on pc heatsinks, I can just move those around, wouldnt have to remove the COB again. The fact that it is not at all moveable, makes me feel more at ease ! :) I think Im ending up completely copying this setup, just with active cooling.
 

benbud89

Well-Known Member
Bruce, do you plan on posting a somewhat elaborate conclusion after getting your dry weight? I think it would be really sweet to have your final thoughts on your build, setup, results, etc.. Thanks for sharing :)
 

benbud89

Well-Known Member
By this, "I won't be going back to hps judging by the length of time it took to trim.", do you mean because you didnt have to deal with any popcorn buds, that they all passed the bar? Sounds great, looking forward for some pictures of the dry stuff :) THanks!
 

bruce786

Well-Known Member
Err i think its just a feeling about the whole trim time, like it felt like there was quite a bit of material to get through. Hopefully correlating to an increase in yield. But i may end up hitting what i would normally get from a 600 hps which would definetly be a bit of a downer on the whole thing.


On a side note I may have found out whats causing my poor plant health at around week 4 of flower. Usually up until week 3-4 of flower my PH stays pretty stable. Soon after week 4 my ph drops from its usual of about 5.8-6.2 to 4.1-4.5. I was ignoring this issue as i was using advanced nutrients PH perfect and didn't want to fuck with it. I just assumed it was fine with all the chelation compounds and aminos. Anyway i had a dig through my root system after this cycle which was my best root system to date by sheer volume and fuzzyness. Now i remember @JimmyIndica saying about lockout of magnesium. As i was running a fairly high ppm number and the fact that i know i have a decent mix going on here it did make sense because there should have been ample magnesium for the plant to feed off. So after id cut the plants down i found that my roots were being sucked down the water drains and those roots that had been sucked down were pretty slimy. Now they did not smell bad at all but i definetly think that those roots may have been causing the PH to drop.

On the next grow i will be actively removing the roots from drain pipes and keeping them in the feeding chamber.
 

bruce786

Well-Known Member
Personally no i dont think ive chopped too soon. But when you do chop it depends on what you want your high to be like. I dont use a scope, ive grown her for almost two years. Normally chop down 8 weeks or there about.
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
hey bruce,
Did you flower 8 weeks from flip? How are you drying with what temps?
I haven't chopped yet,as I might go for full 10 weeks as this is for perso. I have seen pictures of the same strain, flowering up to 10 weeks, with major crystals around everywhere.
I've already chopped three branches, and leaving it out to dry for a week. 18degrees @ 45-55% humidity, does that seem right? I'm using the aircond, to keep the temps and humidity constant.

I have a secondary tote, with a WWXBB, however she is different from the other WWXBB that flowered more quicker. Both totes were flipped at the same time. However, two complete different phenos. Her pistils haven't turned to orange yet, her leaves are nice and green, unlike the first tote. I'll probably take a bud shot of them tomorrow. Currently right now, she is two days into week 9 from flip (58 flower days). I'm aiming to get smashed. So does that mean pull it, when most of the trichs have amber up?
 
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bruce786

Well-Known Member
Sorry for the MIA. The timing of certain events could not have been better (worse!)
Anyway that grow yielded just under 18 ounces. Not too bad, more then my hps grows but i was expecting a bit more than that in all honesty.

At the end of that grow i decided to go through my root system on the recomendation of a grower on here and found a fundamental design flaw that was leading to root rot in my plants, hence the yellowing and the massive PH drop at around weeks 3/4 of flower. My return pipe to the reservoir was not flowing quick enough. All systems have been rebuilt now and they are all back up and running, I will be posting pictures tonight.

Thanks
 

2cent

Well-Known Member
howmuch did they cost per strip to make? and howmany would one need to replace a 600w xD
lovely grow, and im guessing you have an idea as uve just done a nice run with them :D
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Hey Brucey,
So when are you starting again? I'm currently vegging 3 clones (not sure what strain but I seen the buds and they're nice and green when dried)

Trying to get 3 skunks into mothers, so I can collect some clones, 3 Blue dream, and 2 freebies. Going to take about a month until they're clonable..
 

2cent

Well-Known Member
I used to run urdwc and a way to redu e block is
1 copper rings roots go away from them they use it in drain pipes to stop tree roots seeking water in them
2 if ur pipes on the left add a second on the right as one blocks the others released so always mooving
I run advancednuteds and 4-8ph is fine due to humic acids etc making food available at wider PhD adding any pH messes it up big And any ppm and pH reading inaccurate due to how the feeds are made different . I talk with them when on PC jl post there emails
Follow bottle a n b and y fine but flowering. Bushes does require there boosters carbload voodoojuice bud candy budxl b52 rhinoskin and I'm sure I'm missinv one. I notice a big difference when plants get bigger
 
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