Crispy leaves

DopeToke

Well-Known Member
Anyone know whats going on here? Lower leaves are going discoloured and crispy. I havent watered them in 6 days now as the moisture meter is still showing that its wet. I have 3 plants, 1 plant is fine these 2 in pics are not.
Im using tomato compost which ive never tried before. They havent had any ferts yet and there a month old. I would have normally used fert much sooner but wanted to sort my plant problems out first.
 

DopeToke

Well-Known Member
Drainage holes arent the problem its more the water retaining compost which i also put perlite in, didnt realize until after i had potted them. As for the ph i dont know my meter as never changed, ive done a few grows and its always said 9 which is alot more on the alkaline side... i dont think it works. Problems get worse each day, the dry crispyness is slowly moving up the plant. I would repot into a soil im more familiar with but i want to sex them first
 

buggs bunny

Well-Known Member
some of my plants looked like that it's over fertilized.

try flushing with three times the pot size with straight water,plus add more vermiculite in soil mixture so soil can drain faster and won't waterlogg the plant when you need to flush in the future
 

bonghits4all

Well-Known Member
ph is not the whole problem its verry little to do with it.
You need to get them in dry soil after 6 days and still wet.Your roots are not getting enough air due to moisture and starting to lock up and starve your plant.The ph is not a major issue.but you do need it a bit more acidic then 9.Remove it from your compost and get it into some soil/
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
I agree with your suggestion on the wet soil but how could ph not be a major issue? are you saying that because the soil is so damp that there is a total nute lockout b/c of the lack of o2 and ph would not matter at this point b/c the plants are not absorbing anyting anyways? but even if it did absord some, would'nt the extremely high ph lockout the nutes it could possibly uptake?
 

bonghits4all

Well-Known Member
his roots are allready locked out adjusting your ph now is futile.his roots are not getting 02and not feeding the plant and not growing.and its cause his compost is suffocating roots and retaining way too much moisture.

now heres the thing with ph. fuck it.in nature your ph is everchanging constanly flupuating .Your roots if healthy will adjust to your ph.It is true that extream flupuations of ph will cause lock up but his ph is not flupuating.
 

bonghits4all

Well-Known Member
case and point. in your own back yard test the ph of your soil.in two spots and you will have 2 diff. numbers.check the same spots the next day and the numbers will again be different from the day b4.So while ph is somewhat important it is complete nonsence to think you need to keep your ph. at6.5.
 

smokeybandit22

Well-Known Member
well I couldnt disagree more, but so be it. a ph of 9 is simply stupid and only inviting trouble. so the studies that show that certain nutrients get locked out at different ph's is false? I wonder why everyone would be so adamant about ph and nutrient availability. aw damn it all to hell, Im going to raise my ph to 13.
 

bonghits4all

Well-Known Member
I clearly stated his ph should be more acidic then 9. that is obvious. but his problem is not the ph the roots at one time were healthy and growing.Until retained moisture from the compost suffocated them.when he transplants into soil the ph will become much more in line.His problem is tomato compost thats old rotted dried tomatoes.(you would think the ph would be 0.5 considering how acidic tomatoes are).now when you dump water in there you are rehydrating every piece of tomato skin which increases your moisture level significantly.which explains the lockout which explains the symptoms.Hope this helps.Why dose everyone want to fight on this site?
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
I clearly stated his ph should be more acidic then 9. that is obvious. but his problem is not the ph the roots at one time were healthy and growing.Until retained moisture from the compost suffocated them.when he transplants into soil the ph will become much more in line.His problem is tomato compost thats old rotted dried tomatoes.(you would think the ph would be 0.5 considering how acidic tomatoes are).now when you dump water in there you are rehydrating every piece of tomato skin which increases your moisture level significantly.which explains the lockout which explains the symptoms.Hope this helps.Why dose everyone want to fight on this site?

This has been my experience too. Even in hydro I allow a fluctuation from 5.5 to sometimes 7. Soil aeration allows the roots to breath. In DWC all we are doing is adding air to water via an air stone, without the air the plant would drown. In really dense water retaining soil the effect is the same as the lack of an air pump. No air, no growth. So I agree completely..LOL

to the OP. I just recently pulled my afgooey mom out of soil and completely cleaned the roots (carefully) and transplanted into a hempy bucket. I was having soil issues as it was root bound and the whole plant went sick with lockout and nuteburn. Its now two days after the transplant and the new growth looks happy. As long as you are tender you might be able to pull off some of that compost and get the plant into some 50% soil 50% perlite mix.
 

DopeToke

Well-Known Member
Thanks for everyones info im basically going to repot them tomorrow into a the same soil i used on my last grow providing i can find it at the garden centre again. As for the ph i said my meter isnt working, its always shown 9 since the day i got it and it been in 3 different soils. Ive never used any fert on these plants yet...i dont see how flushing would solve the problems. Heres an update with pics. They are plant 1 2 and 3 in that order. Plant 1 is fine. Plant 2 is unwell this is also the only confirmed female, i need to save this plant the most. Plant 3 is the worst off
 

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