compost/mix your soil question.

Canadain Closet Gardener

Canadain Closet Gardener

Well-Known Member
Hi All
I'm going to be trying an outdoor grow in containers next year. In preparation I mixed a about 110 gal of soil with various amendments in two containers to sit over the winter for next years grow (June).

The question I have is. Should I add an aeration component to the mix now (perlite or something similar) or can I add it in the spring with no difference?
I didn't mix in any aeration yet as I'm trying to limit my soil storage space. I could add it and get another 210L/55Gal storage container but I would rather mix in the spring.
Any suggestion would help
Cheers
CCG
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
You can add aeration right before you use it. If adding worms then add some aeration. Don't use perlite. It floats to the top of the soil. It also turns into powder eventually and clogs soil. Use pumice or rice hulls.
 
W

Wetdog

Well-Known Member
You're going to need aeration AND drainage holes in those totes.

The bacteria the soil needs is aerobic and must have O2 & moisture to do it's work. Anerobic bacteria needs no oxygen and is what gives you those septic tank smells. If it's gone anerobic a slight whiff will let you know.

What you CAN do to save some space is only add 1/2 the aeration amount. The bacteria doesn't need as much O2 as roots do to flourish, but the bother is remembering to add the other 1/2 before plants are added. I run 40% of just perlite (NOT the 'chunky' stuff, it's kinda useless), and with other aeration usually end up with close to 50% aeration. That 1/3 - 1/3 - 1/3 ratio usually ends up as too dense and poorly draining to grow much of anything.

The drainage in the storage totes is a must. Water is what gets everything going and the mix needs to be at least moderately moist to activate the bacteria and start the process. Even moderately moist mix is going to drain and water collecting in the bottom is bad ju ju.

Sorry @hyroot, but after 45 years+ of using perlite those claims are simply not true. In that length of time, I'm sure I would have noticed. Perlite does float, but does not work it's way up and out of the mix. It also does not turn to dust unless you physically act on it. Those claims are pretty much internet myth.

Pumice ain't bad IF you can source it cheaply, but rice hulls are terrible for aeration since they break down to mush in just a few months. As mulch or in worm bins they work fine, but not for aeration.
 
hyroot

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Wetdog said:
You're going to need aeration AND drainage holes in those totes.

The bacteria the soil needs is aerobic and must have O2 & moisture to do it's work. Anerobic bacteria needs no oxygen and is what gives you those septic tank smells. If it's gone anerobic a slight whiff will let you know.

What you CAN do to save some space is only add 1/2 the aeration amount. The bacteria doesn't need as much O2 as roots do to flourish, but the bother is remembering to add the other 1/2 before plants are added. I run 40% of just perlite (NOT the 'chunky' stuff, it's kinda useless), and with other aeration usually end up with close to 50% aeration. That 1/3 - 1/3 - 1/3 ratio usually ends up as too dense and poorly draining to grow much of anything.

The drainage in the storage totes is a must. Water is what gets everything going and the mix needs to be at least moderately moist to activate the bacteria and start the process. Even moderately moist mix is going to drain and water collecting in the bottom is bad ju ju.

Sorry @hyroot, but after 45 years+ of using perlite those claims are simply not true. In that length of time, I'm sure I would have noticed. Perlite does float, but does not work it's way up and out of the mix. It also does not turn to dust unless you physically act on it. Those claims are pretty much internet myth.

Pumice ain't bad IF you can source it cheaply, but rice hulls are terrible for aeration since they break down to mush in just a few months. As mulch or in worm bins they work fine, but not for aeration.
Click to expand...
Those are not claims I've seen it in my own garden over the last 20 years. Every time you water. The perlite moves upwards a little bit. If you do no till (recycle your soil) like I have done for years, eventually the perlite breaks down into powder. My current soil is 7 or 8 years old.

For cooking soil you treat it like compost bins. You don't want drainage. You don't want harmful bugs getting in there and you don't want to invite harmful pathogens. You lightly water it in the beginning. Then turn the soil once a week. Nothing wrong with anaerobic conditions if its good bacteria. The pseudomycelium ( white fuzz) that develops when cooking soil is beneficial anaerobic fungi. You can always water or spray labs / em1 (lactobacillus ) which is beneficial anaerobic bacteria and that will kill of any harmful pathogens. Aloe and em1 bokashi will too. Bokashi will promote pseudomycelium growth too.

Read up on clackamas coots soil recipes, korean natural farming, jadam natural farming, kyusie natural farming and unconventional natural farming.

Equal parts aeration, peat moss and worm castings is actually the perfect ratio. Its not too dense at all.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top