nevergoodenuf
Well-Known Member
I think you have that backwards. It runs in CC mode pulling full amps until it hits the set voltage. Then, if it hits the voltage ceiling, it will reduce amps to maintain that voltage.
Check this out from the Mean Well siteI think you have that backwards. It runs in CC mode pulling full amps until it hits the set voltage. Then, if it hits the voltage ceiling, it will reduce amps to maintain that voltage.
You're strictly talking about running a system where you have more current draw than the rated output of the driver, correct? The way I understand it is if your COBs were pulling less than the max rated current, it would run in CV mode. Once you exceed the rated current, it would then stabilize the current at max and vary the voltage to maintain the current, no?I understand that and have read it before, but the second you turn your light on it is pulling full amps unless your setup is trying to pull more voltage than the limit. So, for the way we build, it is really just running as a CC
Well, if you're regulating the voltage, it will only pull however much current its particular I-V curve dictates at said voltage.Yeah, but that COB will take every amp you give it until it either burns up or you run out of amps.
In this example, I think it would maintain a constant voltage of 50V and deliver however much current your load required, up until your load was drawing 1,000mA, where it would then switch to CC mode and hold that current steady.Dont the CC CV versions have two internal pots for each setting?
So if you were to set the CV at 50 and CC to 1000ma, the driver will try to give it 1000ma in CC mode unless the COB draws 50v before it draws 1000ma at which point it switches to CV mode to limit the voltage.
Is this not how it works?
This sounds right.In this example, I think it would maintain a constant voltage of 50V and deliver however much current your load required, up until your load was drawing 1,000mA, where it would then switch to CC mode and hold that current steady.
I'm looking for a cheap driver to run the 1212 @1400, but in the end after heatsink and drivers, it might be cheaper going with 1818 or 1812 on a cheap 55vdc @900ma....Are there any decent cheap alternatives for meanwell drivers
Cobs are current greedy, this is true, they will take it till the die.Yeah, but that COB will take every amp you give it until it either burns up or you run out of amps.
The HLG-185H-C1400B puts out 1400mA and the HLG-185H-36B puts out 36V.Now I'm pretty confused.
How can be (ie) HLG-185H-36B a constant voltage source? You can't directly regulate voltage on it I believe. It puts out 5.2A in the 18-36V region. If your load needs 20V to pull 5.2A through the driver will adjust o/p voltage to 20V. You can change set current which will result in driver changing its output voltage to match it. Isn't that what CC sources are supposed to do?
I guess I'm dumb. Be patient with me pleaseThe HLG-185H-C1400B puts out 1400mA and the HLG-185H-36B puts out 36V.
Is the confusion that is CC+CV? and not just CV? Semantics?
Either way, there is a clear distinction in how you connect the COBs to these drivers and in what you can dim on these drivers and this difference is noted by the "C" in the type.
It only functions as CC once you pull max current from it. Up until that point, it is working as CV and will dish out current as required, while holding voltage steady.I guess I'm dumb. Be patient with me please
My confusion is how could HLG-185H-36B work as CV.
The only difference I can see between these 2 is - obviously - different I and V rating.
I really don't see how could HLG-185H-36B be anything but a CC source. It adjusts its output voltage (within its CC range) to pull rated current through the circuit, doesn't it? How could this possibly be a constant voltage source and NOT a CC one?
That would be a situation when a circuit connected needs more than rated voltage to pull rated through, right? And what would be the difference to "C" series? Do they try to up the voltage until they hit over voltage protection?It only functions as CC once you pull max current from it. Up until that point, it is working as CV and will dish out current as required, while holding voltage steady.
@alesh, The obvious and biggest difference is that on the "C" (CC) you wire the COBs in series and on the "non-C" version (CC+CV) you wire them parallel.
Minimal voltage on a HLG-185H-C is 127V. So you'd blow out all your COBs.What is stopping one from wiring in parallel using constant current drivers?
I might be misunderstanding what you're asking, but I'll share how I think it works. I'm hesitant to even try to answer since I've been pouring over your "Math Behind" thread the past couple days to try and understand all the info that YOU have provided!That would be a situation when a circuit connected needs more than rated voltage to pull rated through, right? And what would be the difference to "C" series? Do they try to up the voltage until they hit over voltage protection?