Club T5

SirSteely

Well-Known Member
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Everything seems Ok here. My HazyOG hermied and I chopped it out.Girls taking full strenght nutes happily.Im happy so far.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Looking great Steely^^^ nice and green/healthy !!! what's your nute regiment ATM...

LST is your friend with T5's ....may want to look into that, it will increase your yield way more than your lollipopping

Keep it up.. be safe and happy growing
 

SirSteely

Well-Known Member
Looking great Steely^^^ nice and green/healthy !!! what's your nute regiment ATM...

LST is your friend with T5's ....may want to look into that, it will increase your yield way more than your lollipopping

Keep it up.. be safe and happy growing
I am currently using Dyna-Gro nutes, the full line at recommended strength(556ppm)I am also adding EJ Catalyst and EJ Hi~Brix Molasses with the nutes.
I also use a powdered Mychorizia bacteria additive to every watering after nutes.
Big increase in resin production last few days.
Thanks for the interest, and will study LST si I can quit lollipopping my plants(<<whatever that is lol, Im such a noobYodaOg day30.jpgBubbaUrkle day30.jpg)
 

RockyMtnMan

Well-Known Member
Here is my T-5, mixed CFL, Overdriven T8 bloom setup. I also run a veg tent on 2- 2 bulb 4' T8s that I added a second balast to. Home depot now sells HO T8 bulbs that run on 59 watts. I just add a balast to each $10.00 shop light and double the lumen output on a T8. Aquarium people do this to grow coral. I have been running these lights for 6 mos. now and I just changed them. I don't know if my supercharged T8 qualifies in the club, but I have a 4', 4 bulb T5 and a 4' 6 bulb T5. ( ten T5 bulbs total)
I know the argument regarding bud density and the use of fluorescent lighting vs. HID, but I am posting pictures of what I have been able to do.
I believe side lighting, reflection, LST and vertical lighting can produce dense buds. Here is a picture of a White Rhino Lolipoped. I counted over 35 3-5 gram, rock hard nuggets.
I basically surround the plants with light vertically, horizontally and from above. Mounting used vanity light fixtures along the wall vertically seem to really promote bud development.

I don't think its always about light intensity, but about PAR. I have 2700k, 3000k, 2100k, 6500k, and 3500k. Here is some pictures. These are aprox 1 week old. The Boss Hoggs in the pics have really taken off this week.
 

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PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Some of you may know me as an early contributor to this thread. I own a 4ft 8 bulb BB and have played with aquarium bulbs to simulate led PAR spectrum balance.

Current clones are under

2 Zoomed Florasuns
4 UVL Red Lifes
1 UVL 660
1 Quantum Flower

The Q is near the middle to better distribute

This is 3rd grow with same strain clones, and by far the best.

Now that said...

I also play with LEDs, which are having a hard time overcoming tons of retailer lies that were simply regurgitated from manufacturers. If you look far enough back in this thread, you should come across some comparisons between my HOT5 and LED, where I supplemented with mostly cfls

I want to get cfls out of my house, including my grow rooms. First I began replacing the cfls with household leds- their price is coming down big time, while their quality has jumped leaps and bounds. This very day (assuming they haven't been grabbed up by stealthy small personal use growers) you can buy CREE globe bulbs ~ $10!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.. Fine for them, but what about those of us who need a minimum of 2 X 4?

Enter retrofit LEDs for T8-12 fixtures. Price per bulb a mere $30 for 40w. My personal experience is, that is close enough, plus, it won't be too long before both watts and lumens per watt increases. As these bulbs are self ballasted they set up a simple DIY frame build.

I still have plenty of life on my bulbs, and plenty of bulbs, but they do go bad (here they must be disposed at haz mat facility). If you mange to drop one and it breaks, in addition to the huge glass splinter mess, you (and your plants) are breathing mercury. No thanks.

If you jump in and build one, please PM me, and start a thread.


HOT5 pics taken yesterday. They are already sticky. Drinking ~ one gallon of nutes pr day

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Grojak

Well-Known Member
I'm still a member, thought i flower under HPS's now I still run my 8 bulb for Veg..... THAT SAID,I've found fluorescents can lend to premature flowering if you're trying to keep a male around... had pollen drop in my veg room!!
 

RockyMtnMan

Well-Known Member
I'm still a member, thought i flower under HPS's now I still run my 8 bulb for Veg..... THAT SAID,I've found fluorescents can lend to premature flowering if you're trying to keep a male around... had pollen drop in my veg room!!
I noticed something recently myself. I also have a veg tent with fluorescents and I used to veg with 2-4' 2700k and 2-4' 6500k. I ran 3 feminized THC Bomb seeds this way and they all showed as girls while stil in veg at about 3-4 weeks. On this veg cycle I replaced the 2700k bulbs with 5000k bulbs and started 2 more Bomb seeds. They have been bushier, and similar in structure as the first 3, but these haven't split a calyx and shown any hairs and they are on week 5 of veg. Could the light spectrum promote that type of growth? I wonder.....
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
When I first got my Q BB 8 bulb, I vegged under their Grow bulb (6500K) those plants were extremely bushy.

As I moved away from Q bulbs and into the wide world of aquarium bulbs. plant growth changed, but so did the strains, the ambient temps, RH, nutes...

But with all those other variables in mind, yes color temp plays a roll

Even though you are growing indoors, it is smart to think like mother nature, and when farmers plant- in early spring (cool temps, white light)

During early veg I suggest 3:1 ratio of 6500/5000K to one @ ~3000K

By late veg, switch to 50/50 and in early flower 60/40 (3000K:5-6500K), by late flower 20/80 (5-6500 : ~ 3000)
 

SirSteely

Well-Known Member
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Day 57 of bloom on my first grow.
Had hermie issues, bug issues and harvested 2 plants early.Still have 4 plants under my two 4x4T5s and determined to let them mature fully.
Will update at harvest.
 

SirSteely

Well-Known Member
Well I harvested about 10-12 days early:-|.Fungus gnats, root aphids and finally the appearance of spider mites caused an early chop. Id rather have this sucess than let mites ruin my flowers.
Each plant was in a differnt stage of maturity and flush.But I am very happy with the results.Sampled the GodsGift twice(itwasmostmature) and both times found myself nodding off with very heavy eyes.I am going to be better prepared for pests next time.
Here is the finished look at begining of cure.
I used FFOF soil,Dyna-Gro nutes,EJ Catalyst, EJHi-Brix, and SoluableMychorriza in 3 gallon pots under 432w of T5s with mixed spectrum blue/red bulbs vegged for 28days under 24/0 and flowered for 58days starting at 12/12 cascading down to 10/14.Room temps were 65-75*F with RH @55%-65%
Thanks so much for your tips and interest.
My next grow will be DWC scrog under 864w of T5s........................
 

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PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Dropped ppm from ~ 700 to ~ 600. will also drop from 12/12 by half an hour for 2 week, then drop again. Last grow with these plants, I had to drop to 10/14 and cut the lights from 8 bulbs down to 4 before they would finish. I replaced the second ATI Blue Actinics with another Quantum Flower as the buds were getting fatter under the side with one Q F. Most likely reinsert the ATIs during the last week + one Wave Point Coral Wave

Also have a cool LED rig in another tent. It is also in my thread

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