Club 600

bassman999

Well-Known Member
U

So...

I have 6 "tomato" plants growing under my 600w hps. Some of the leaf tips were starting to burn which suggests my light is to close. It was about 13" from the top of the closest cola.

Question is:
How far should the light be away?

Also, I have 1x 2300k 300w CFL & 3x 5600k 100w CFL spread around the plants to hit lower foliage and buds.
What kind of reflector are you using? I keep my 600 as close as 6" away with the right reflector and the right exhaust fan. The burned tips might be over nute burn.....
 

Dr.Amber Trichome

Well-Known Member
ahah, i love the names DST. Meddonator made me laugh really hard.Your so creative.
im getting better with the hash oil. This looks closer to your magical cookie dough caramel chocolate croissant looking eerrrllll . This was made with my used vaped herb.lol..
well done hash oil 002.jpg
 

DoobieBrother

Well-Known Member
I have a question about folair feeding. Can I give the girls nutes this way? I'm having a bit of an issue at the moment. This is the first time I've ever put two different batches of plants into the tubes at two different times. The plants that are 2 weeks into 12/12 are looking just about right. However, the plants I just put in are looking quite N starved. I usually give them a good dose of veg nutes the first week of 12/12... but everything on the same rez, so that's not going to happen.

So is it possible to put a veg nute mix in my spray bottle and just feed the girls lacking in N?

If so, what strength should it be?

Thanks
I read somewhere that for better absorbtion, humic acid or fulvic acid mixed into the nutes will increase absorption.
Since most pre-mixed nutes have humic acid in them, you should be good to go.

I've used foliar feeding for my girls when something has gone wrong in the soil and I need to keep them fed while I sort it our down below.

Here is a decent article on foliar feeding.
It's very general, but the writer has some info worth reading:

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda%20chalker-scott/horticultural%20myths_files/Myths/Foliar%20feeding.pdf
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
I read somewhere that for better absorbtion, humic acid or fulvic acid mixed into the nutes will increase absorption.
Since most pre-mixed nutes have humic acid in them, you should be good to go.

I've used foliar feeding for my girls when something has gone wrong in the soil and I need to keep them fed while I sort it our down below.

Here is a decent article on foliar feeding.
It's very general, but the writer has some info worth reading:

http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~linda chalker-scott/horticultural myths_files/Myths/Foliar feeding.pdf
so it seems foliar feeding is just a band-aiid or a short term remedy and not a alternative to root feeding.
 

DoobieBrother

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure how long a person could get away with foliar-only with cannabis.

I've used it with about a 33% strength mixture and spritz the girls 3 times a day with the final one just before the lights go off, and I have a cardboard shield that I hang under my light opening to not have direct light on the leaves until they've dried.

Anyways, The nute-lockout I was compensating for always got sorted out within 2 feeding cycles, so not sure how long it can actually be done.
 

afrawfraw

Well-Known Member
I just received some liquid kelp, its 0-0-1
The maxicrop Iv used for years is 1-0-4
and kelp meal is usually 1-.1-2
Yes it could kinda help fix a N deficiency... but why not use something thats higher in N rather than K to fix a N deficiency is all Im sayin. Iv been foliar feeding with teas made of guano's for years, no problem at all,,, the usual rule applies~~ rinse the next day after foliar feeding.
I never said THE way was with seaweed. I just said I use GH seaweed which is .2-0-.3. I only suggested that because it works for me. I'm sure there are several ways to treat a N deficiency through foliar feeding.
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
I do the same sort of thing Doobie, in regards to throughout the day, I'll either pull them out or shut the light's off for a bit and give them a good foliar application and letting them dry up before going back under. It does rain during the day sometimes but I do believe the best happens at night, so I prefer to spray at lights out.
 

afrawfraw

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure how long a person could get away with foliar-only with cannabis.

I've used it with about a 33% strength mixture and spritz the girls 3 times a day with the final one just before the lights go off, and I have a cardboard shield that I hang under my light opening to not have direct light on the leaves until they've dried.

Anyways, The nute-lockout I was compensating for always got sorted out within 2 feeding cycles, so not sure how long it can actually be done.
Nice! I always misted as soon as the lights popped off to avoid burn. It would be a nice experiment to run for sure. Aeroponic foliar...Hmmmm...And when you cut to 12/12? If you can finish a crop with foliar spray, I will kneel at your feet.
 

wormdrive66

Well-Known Member
Nice! I always misted as soon as the lights popped off to avoid burn. It would be a nice experiment to run for sure. Aeroponic foliar...Hmmmm...And when you cut to 12/12? If you can finish a crop with foliar spray, I will kneel at your feet.
From what i have read excessive foliar feeding will weaken the roots. The plant will stop relying on the roots as it's main supply of nutrients. I foliar feed 2-3 times a week until week 3-4 of 12/12.
 

DoobieBrother

Well-Known Member
I'm just lucky enough to finish my grows the regular way! :-)
Because some of the elements aren't mobile, you'd have to supplement with feeding at the root level.
Then there's the possibility of mold or mildew from all the spraying.

Well, at least it's a viable crutch for us while we get our roots back to uptaking what they need.

:-)
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
From what i have read excessive foliar feeding will weaken the roots. The plant will stop relying on the roots as it's main supply of nutrients. I foliar feed 2-3 times a week until week 3-4 of 12/12.
That makes sense, thats why I feel roots come faster from aeroponic cloning than with cubes and humidity domes. I am no expert and I am sure there are ppl getting roots faster who are dialed in with the rockwool cubes than I do with my cloner....lol
 

afrawfraw

Well-Known Member
That makes sense, thats why I feel roots come faster from aeroponic cloning than with cubes and humidity domes. I am no expert and I am sure there are ppl getting roots faster who are dialed in with the rockwool cubes than I do with my cloner....lol
From the methods I've seen, Aeroponic and DWC cloners are superior to the rest. Just my HO.
 

duchieman

Well-Known Member
You guys have me interested. I'm not into getting out of my coir and doing hydro but for cloning I'd give that a go. What do you guys add to the water when you're cloning. Anything?
 

wormdrive66

Well-Known Member
You guys have me interested. I'm not into getting out of my coir and doing hydro but for cloning I'd give that a go. What do you guys add to the water when you're cloning. Anything?
I have seen it done with nothing added, here is what Ez-clone recommends.

Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway
 

bassman999

Well-Known Member
You guys have me interested. I'm not into getting out of my coir and doing hydro but for cloning I'd give that a go. What do you guys add to the water when you're cloning. Anything?
I add K-L-N, Pro Silicate and Liquid Krama. These might not all be needed. I Ph to 5.8 or 5.6 as it might rise but not lower it seems (for me at least) I change water bi-weekly ...Just like the Ronco Showtime Rotisserie,,I set it and forget it. No need to spray leaves or anything. I dont even need Hormone gel or special stem cutting, I still use them mostly though as I have the gel already and why not do what ever to make them faster to root.

If I dont change the water this often rooting gets slower and the sprayer will clog up.
 
Top