Get a diy cob kit a few company's make them all you need is a screwdriver to pu
Still seems to work really well lfsw isn't worth the extra few hundred. mine as well just build cob bars if your going to spend over 300 for a fixture
Club 315w lec
- Thread starter bob223
- Start date
bob223
Well-Known Member
Kushy,
My room stays between 75 and 80 in summer months. for me it seems like the plants can handle high temps above 80 for short peirods of time.
around 82-86degrees the plants seem to start drooping and experience signs of stress. one thing that can help this is air flow in and out of the grow space as well as oscillation fans moving air in the grow space.
Another thing to remember is heat rises , it is very important to take accurate temps.
i recommend placing your thermometer at about lamp level.
each strain will react to heat differently. my headband can stand to be at 80 all day every day, but my master kush burns its fan leaves if it spend to much time at the same temp. so i only really run the kush in the cool months.
good luck your room looks great!
hey a few questions that im sure you have already answered
how many plants in your space?
when are you switching to flower/ have you switched to flower?
you may end up with some over crowding in that room. having to many plants or to big of plants under one light can hurt your yield.
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KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
Well, I have a thermometer that measures ambient tenps as well as a temp gun to measure leaf surface temps. Even when the room was up in the high 80's the leaf temps remained around 75 all around.
I have 6 smaller plants, my "main" plants, and 2 larger bagseed that I stared about a month before the others to experiment with while I got my ither parameters dialed in. I kept them well lst'd, topped, tied down, and supercropped to keep them as short/bushy as possible.
I just transplanted them all into their final 5gal pots yesterday to get ready to switch to flower probably next week. They are currently between 16-18" tall. Shortest being 15", tallest (purple kush) being 18" and growing daily.
It is getting a bit crowded and this js concerning me as well. If it does get too bad, I can set up my second room and put half of them under a 1000w hps, just need to do some contrusction cutting vents and such. Im hoping I wont need to.
My plan for my next grow is to only grow maybe 4 total of all the same strain... Right now Im growing 4 different strains which was a bad idea. Its hard to get it dialed in when they all have different requirements.
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
I know its the wrong forum, but I feel like u guys might read this more and since Ive been talking to a few of you lately, maybe you can help.
Ive been seeing a little yellowing w/ brown spots on 2-3 of my plants on the lower leaves... Like the very first leaf set. One is worse than others. Top growth seems unaffected and otherwise they all look gorgeous. Just dont want this to spread.
One I plucked off for a better shot:
Otherwise looking just fine (maybe just older growth?) about 45 days into veg, just flipped to 12/12 today.
Ive been seeing a little yellowing w/ brown spots on 2-3 of my plants on the lower leaves... Like the very first leaf set. One is worse than others. Top growth seems unaffected and otherwise they all look gorgeous. Just dont want this to spread.
One I plucked off for a better shot:
Otherwise looking just fine (maybe just older growth?) about 45 days into veg, just flipped to 12/12 today.
if its the bottom set its fine
DesertGrow89
Well-Known Member
What is the root substrate/medium?
What is your EC/PPM?
What is your pH?
What's your daily high/low and watering habits? How often are you feeding?
Increase your EC slightly during stretch it's one of the most critical times for plants to get nutrients because they pack on so much weight.
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
Substrate: FFOF w/ ~20-30% pearlite
PPM from tap is 110. With feeding its typically around 650.
Ph - water is always given between 6.4-6.6 with and without feeding.
Daily high/low is between 75-78, every once in a while on hot days up to 83.
Watering habits I go by pot weight. In the 5 gal smart pots its usually every 3-4 days.
Im using a feed-water-water-feed right now.
DesertGrow89
Well-Known Member
Did you add any lime to your soil? Preferably you want to get your lows lower than that, a 10-15 degree day/night temperature differential is optimal:
"Thermoperiod refers to a daily temperature change. Plants respond and produce maximum growth when exposed to a day temperature that is about 10 to 16 degrees higher than a night temperature. This allows the plant to photosynthesize (build up) and respire (break down), during an optimum daytime temperature and to curtail the respiration rate during a cooler night. Temperatures higher than needed cause increased respiration, sometimes above photosynthesis rate. This means that the products of photosynthesis are used more rapidly than they are produced. For growth to occur, photosynthesis must be greater than respiration."
"Thermoperiod refers to a daily temperature change. Plants respond and produce maximum growth when exposed to a day temperature that is about 10 to 16 degrees higher than a night temperature. This allows the plant to photosynthesize (build up) and respire (break down), during an optimum daytime temperature and to curtail the respiration rate during a cooler night. Temperatures higher than needed cause increased respiration, sometimes above photosynthesis rate. This means that the products of photosynthesis are used more rapidly than they are produced. For growth to occur, photosynthesis must be greater than respiration."
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
Oh, Im sorry I didn't actually include the nighttime lows. I included the temp fluctuation during the day which is 75-77ish as stated above. At night it gets to about 63-66. It has gotten to 55-56 on some of the cooler nights where I forgot to close the air vent, but it didnt seem to negatively impact them at all. Its difficult in my area because the whether changes can be pretty drastic from week to week or even day to day sometimes. I live in the nevada desert, so whether is pretty unpredictable sometimes. The space my grow area is in is fully insulated, which does help quite a bit. Even on 35-40 nights, the room has only gotten down to 55 at the least. On days where its over 100 outside, if I don't open the outer door much and let got air in, it will get up to 85-86 at the most. There were a few days where I was doing a lot of work in there and Inleft the door open for a few hours on a 100F day oitside and the room got up to 95 ambient. Although when I use a digital temp gun to check the leaves surface temps and various other areas of the plants, they were still at their normal 74-75 temps.
Temps stay relatively consistent, but I think until I live in a house where I can either have a tent(s) indoors, or in a more stable indoor area Ill either need to grow plants that are less sensitive to temp fluctuations, or find a way to heat/cool as needed without spending thousands on some sort of environmental control system (maybe theres diy ones?).
twistedentities
Well-Known Member
Isn't this an LEC thread?".....................
DesertGrow89
Well-Known Member
If you're using FFOF and dyna-gro I think the synthetics may be killing the organics but I don't think that's why you have a couple yellow leaves. Are you using DG foliage pro? As long as it doesn't spread don't worry about it.
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
Yea, Im using the Foliage Pro and ProTekt. Ive read that pretty much all synthetic nutrients will kill off microbial life, but then they get everything they need from the nutrients themselves so in the end it doesn't really matter all that much.
Like you said, its just a few leaves on the oldest growth so Im not too worried. Everything else looks just fine. Just wanted to be sure it wasn't the beginning of something Im going to need to worry about.
twistedentities
Well-Known Member
So, I did a heat check in my new room with a 600hps open. Temps 1' below the bulb are 80. Can I safely assume it'll be even cooler with the lec 315? 
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
I have my plants 20-22" from my 315 and the surface temps of the leaves measured with a digital temp gun are typically between 70-75 depending on where the plants are spaced and abmients are between 75-80
twistedentities
Well-Known Member
Awesome! If I have the ac running, I can get it as cool as needed. Real happy to have 80 with it being almost 90 outside. Only thing on now is an exhaust fan that pulls air from under the house. Can't wait to hook up the lec's
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Yes. Half the watts.
KushyMcKush
Well-Known Member
It is half the watts, but doesn't the use of a ceramic arc tube instead of quartz allow the bulb to burn at a much hotter tempurature? Isn't this why the 315 can be compared to a 600w hps/mh? It would still be less heat of course only being 315w, but wouldn't the temps be similar? Or does this refer to the color tepurature (kelvin rating)... Though kelvin is the color temp, not hest produced so that may not apply.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Nope, no and no lol
315W is the actual watts used by the lamp, maybe 340 with ballast.
Kelvin temperature gives an idea of color and spectrum, but it's only a very general guide.
The reasons for its efficiency include both that its spectrum output is superior to HPS, plus the low frequency square wave ballast tech. This drives the lamp more efficiently.
Folks seem to be coming to agreement that a 315W CMH system is worth maybe 500W of HPS in equivalent growth performance.